DIY Home Improvement Forum banner

1 - 20 of 36 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
477 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I need one 3/4" steel type C EMT body - the threadless kind, not the kind that also works with rigid conduit. Any tips? I know where to get aluminum ones but I heard they make them in steel, and my EMT is steel, so I figured that's the right choice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,342 Posts
"...and my EMT is steel, so I figured that's the right choice"

No, aluminum will work just fine, in most cases.

Greater impact resistance is one of the reasons to insist on steel (actually malleable iron). But if that is the case, why would you use set screw connections or even EMT to begin with ?

You need a 3/4 type C conduit body. You want the threadless setscrew type and "steel". Unless you give on one of the wants, you may not find it.

Or, buy a threaded malleable iron one, and use fittings to adapt to a threadless setscrew EMT connection.
 

·
Licensed Electrical Cont.
Joined
·
7,829 Posts
Absolutely NO reason to go with a malleable condulet with EMT. Aluminum is perfectly fine.
 
  • Like
Reactions: PaliBob

·
Registered
Joined
·
477 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
OK, I gave up looking for steel anyway. Steel may have been thinner so the EMT would be closer to the wall and the wall straps would work better, and my EMT kind of has to be very near the wall because it's coming out of a difficult-to-enlarge hole, but I could probably make it work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
477 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
For a solution involving bending, I might have to bend it away from the wall only 1/4" - 1/2" so it still fits in the soffit that will be covering it. I can't adjust the soffit depth because I want the soffit to be the same depth as a feature in the corner of the wall, about 2 1/2" (see picture). And I wanted an access panel in the soffit as near the corner as possible. But I'll make it work somehow.
 

Attachments

·
Licensed Electrician
Joined
·
4,352 Posts
If the wiring is going to be covered by a soffit, why not use romex?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
477 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
It's coax for TV and computer. It's in EMT to make fishing easier, and I'll cover the EMT with a soffit to make it look nicer.
 

·
Licensed Electrician
Joined
·
4,352 Posts
Why do you need to put coax in EMT?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
477 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
The coax is yellow in the picture below. I want it to be replaceable in the future and I want more cable to be able to be added. Without EMT, it's much harder get new cable through the soffit (red) and wall, unless a hole is made in the soffit. I want this user friendly for future tennants.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,013 Posts
Putting in a condulet (90) will be next to impossible to pull any new cabling through! You would be best off putting a bend in the conduit forming a nice sweeping 90 instead of the condulet. If you don't have a conduit bender, you can buy the 90 degree bends pre-formed and just couple it on either side to your conduit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
477 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I won't be using a 90 degree condulet. I'll be using a type C, so the holes are in line with each other. I already assembled most of the conduit with the sweeping bends you mentioned and I can actually push in more than one coax by hand, even one at a time, through a 90 degree bend, then a more shallow bend.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
17,158 Posts
Lets get back at the beginning. What exactly are you trying to accomplish, and what will be the end result? Are you planning a home theater, or just a way to hide wiring from across one area to the next?

Instead of all of us playing twenty questions, put it all out on the table, and just explain exactly what you are trying to accomplish from start to finish.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
477 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
You actually answered the only question I needed help with. I'm just a little concerned that the EMT body may not fit because the EMT may have to be too close to the wall. No biggie. The EMT body would just make fishing with fish tape a little easier in some cases. A gap between EMT sections would be fine because it would be covered by the soffit, and I'm building this so fish tape isn't even necessary.
 

·
Licensed Electrical Cont.
Joined
·
7,829 Posts
I'm still confused as to why you need a C condulet.
And why not use PVC?? MUCH easier to work with.
 
  • Like
Reactions: rjniles

·
Registered
Joined
·
477 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I want to put the condulet at the open end of the EMT shown below. Then I'd be able to push new cable through the EMT at that point. The cable will start at the white plate (right side of the top photo) where it's pushed from inside the closet. When it gets to the corner, hand pushing from the closet 7 feet away probably won't work, so I either need a condulet in the corner or I need fishing tools. I want future tenants and Cablevision employees to be able to change cables by hand, so I'm installing a condulet if I can make it fit, or else I'll just leave an uncovered opening where the condulet would have been. That hole in the corner of the wall has steel mesh in it and it's difficult to widen without cutting the corner bead and totally opening it up, which I'd rather not do. I'd rather spend 30 minutes filing inside the hole than cutting off the corner of the wall. Maybe I will.

PVC is thicker and I'd have to enlarge the hole and the condulet would be less likely to fit.
 

Attachments

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,096 Posts
You will have trouble pushing anything through a condulet without a fishtape.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,963 Posts
The bend radius on condulets is smaller than ideal for CATV and Cat5 cables.
 
1 - 20 of 36 Posts
Top