[hellonoko]

I am finishing up a remodel and plan on using some kind of paneling such as these examples on the wall and ceiling rather than, or over drywall: http://imgur.com/a/tGcHi#0

My local hardware store has some 12"x1" number 3 pine that is pretty rough and about just under a dollar a foot but its almost a true 1" thick and pretty sappy so I don't know if that is the best thing to use.

Does anyone have suggestions on types of wood to use and any other tips for this general style of finishing?

It this type of finish generally just go right up over the insulation?

 

[Missouri Bound]

I doubt you would be happy with the end result using dimensional lumber as a wall covering. A wood siding, wood flooring and for that matter any kind of tounge and groove material would be a much better choice.:whistling2:

 

[hellonoko]

I doubt you would be happy with the end result using dimensional lumber as a wall covering. A wood siding, wood flooring and for that matter any kind of tounge and groove material would be a much better choice.:whistling2:

@Missouri Bound - Thanks, what kind of lumber do you think was used in say, this ceiling:

 

[epson]

You can look into old barn wood/boards, old floor boards. You can also go to a recycle place to check and see what old wood planks they might have.

 

[Missouri Bound]

It could be anything. Looks to be about 8" wide. Paint is a great way to cover up anything. Just remember that dimensional lumber right from the builders supply won't necessarily be straight or true and some trimming will be needed. T & G boards are usually ready to go with some fitting. It's really up to how you want it to look when you are done. Personally I prefer stain on wood tather than paint, that's why I prefer a more finished product. But you photo example looks great to me and if that's what you want...."K SA_RAAH SA_RAAH":laughing:

 

[hellonoko]

Thanks both.

If I put up something like old barn wood that will be imperfect like in that picture.

Would I typically put something behind it? A layer of drywall first or anything like that?

I'd imagine not wanting to be able to see anything like the insulation or whatever was in the wall but maybe those cracks look bigger in the photo than they are?

 

[sixeightten]

You could drywall first and then use a dark paint so that you don't see white through the joints of the wood.

 

[Missouri Bound]

Drywall and tape as if you were ready to paint would be my suggestion. Even though it will be insulated by taping the joints you will stop any air infiltration. Expect to see those gaps if you don't use a tounge and groove type board.

 

[hellonoko]

@sixeightten - thanks.

@Missouri Bound - Not really worried about the gaps. I like the rough look. I was more thinking of insulation particles coming out. Sound dampening. Air infiltration. Dust and what not going into the wall and so on.

My wall insulation is foamular (daylight basement) so I can imagine seeing pink cracks.

 

[kwikfishron]

The taped Sheetrock is a must, not just for air leaks but for Fire.

sixeightten nailed it on the method.

 

[hellonoko]

@kwikfishron - I had that though, but the inspectors don't care. I asked if I could finish with paper mache or fabric and they said sure.

 

[747]

tough and grove pine vertically nailed through the tough. Put some blocking between 2x4 for nailing.

 

[747]

@Missouri Bound - Thanks, what kind of lumber do you think was used in say, this ceiling:

Looks like reclaimed barn board.

 

[Gary in WA]

Pink board manufacturer requires a 15 minute barrier for fire; page #3, 5.5; "ICC-ES ESR-1061"

As do most codes; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_3_sec016_par003.htm

Gary

 

[mae-ling]

My guess is a ship lap.
Can fake this with 1x6, daddo/route wide shallow groves in back, then rabbet the edges, then put a 1x2 behind it. (or flip it so you actually make shiplap.)
The shallow groves help with warp/cup like the back of door jambs.

 

[ToolSeeker]

My guess is a ship lap.
Can fake this with 1x6, daddo/route wide shallow groves in back, then rabbet the edges, then put a 1x2 behind it. (or flip it so you actually make shiplap.)
The shallow groves help with warp/cup like the back of door jambs.

Exactly my thought or search wood suppliers on the net for wide pine boards or planks.

 

[md2lgyk]

The cathedral ceiling in my log house is tongue and groove 1x6 pine boards. Run vertically or horizontally, I think it would look great on a wall.