[Daugela]

I'm remodeling my bathroom in my basement. Everything was gutted. Major termite problem! :vs_mad:

The drain is not positioned correctly for the new shower base. Essentially, I need to move the drain 16 3/8" center from the 2x4s. You can see I'm off by about an inch.

What do I need to do to move this over?

The picture doesn't do justice but the drain opening is currently covered with some duct tape. It's 1 1/2" ABS pipe. The small black thing next to the drain is the other end of the P trap where the pipe comes up and travels back to the sewer.

I'm assuming I will need to cut the concrete, expose the drain/pipe and cut the pipe some place before the P trap, eliminating it and then re-gluing a 45 or something to get the pipe in the right position???

I'm confused how to move the pipe only an inch. It seems all the fittings that I could use would make the pipe move way more than an inch?

 

[TheEplumber]

look at using 22 degree elbows. Stack 2 in the vertical if you have the height.
You can get them in a street pattern or regular hub x hub.

If that doesn't work, you'll have to expose the trap and move it

 

[Daugela]

look at using 22 degree elbows. Stack 2 in the vertical if you have the height.
You can get them in a street pattern or regular hub x hub.

If that doesn't work, you'll have to expose the trap and move it

I don't think I explained myself well. I was going to expose the trap, remove it and start over with a 22 or something and then recreate the trap, etc. I just didn't know if there was some gizmo out there that would simplify the process.

I suspect I would need to cut the pipe about 6 inches or more before the trap to get a good starting point for the new couplings?

 

[TheEplumber]

I don't think I explained myself well. I was going to expose the trap, remove it and start over with a 22 or something and then recreate the trap, etc. I just didn't know if there was some gizmo out there that would simplify the process.

I suspect I would need to cut the pipe about 6 inches or more before the trap to get a good starting point for the new couplings?

Yep, cut it back a ways, grab some 22 and 45's and piece it together. Don't forget that the new trap will swivel too- that will help with alignment

 

[Daugela]

Just so I'm clear, after the trap, I can immediately have 22s, 45s, etc? Whatever is needed to get the angle correct? Didn't know if you needed a straight shot or something after the trap...

 

[TheEplumber]

You can offset the horizontal trap arm(between the trap and wall) to get the rough in dimensions you need.
Or you can offset the vertical tail piece if you have the height.

 

[rjniles]

Do you realize your 1.5" drain does not meet code. It is supposed to be 2".

 

[Daugela]

Do you realize your 1.5" drain does not meet code. It is supposed to be 2".

Great catch! Thank you.

My bad though. I don't know why I wrote 1.5". It's 2", but again, thank you. This is in part why I use this forum. Second set of internet eyes.

On a side note, when I am finished with my rough in, do I just fill the hole back up with concrete and finish? Or are there some precautions to take?

I was going to pack the bottom with aggrgate, then do a small concrete pour.

Also, the pipe that comes out of the trap into my shower receptor - should I make that extra tall, not knowing my exact height since I haven't bought the shower base yet and then cut it off after a few dry fits once the base comes in?

thanks

 

[TheEplumber]

Put the dirt back in the hole and top it with concrete.
Leave a dished out area to receive the strainer fitting of the pan.
I'm assuming you will use a no-caulk strainer assembly, so leave the pipe about 4" above the floor- or more if you want. The point is- to have access through the strainer and not short change yourself.
To get the right height, you can use an inside cutter at any time after the base goes down.

 

[Daugela]

Put the dirt back in the hole and top it with concrete.
Leave a dished out area to receive the strainer fitting of the pan.
I'm assuming you will use a no-caulk strainer assembly, so leave the pipe about 4" above the floor- or more if you want. The point is- to have access through the strainer and not short change yourself.
To get the right height, you can use an inside cutter at any time after the base goes down.

If I understand correctly, a 'dished out area' means a crater in the concrete to allow the curvature of the pan/strainer fitting?

I'm not sure if I need to do that on this install. This is my first shower pan install. The unit is the Sterling Accord shower pan.

http://sterlingplumbing.com/baths-and-showers/shower-stalls/Accord-R-Shower-72270100-detail?productNumber=72270100&resultId=-178850300-0

It's a thick pan made of solid Vikrell material, so it may accept the strainer within it's height/thickness? I'm not sure, but you've got me thinking now!

This is the showerpan and the second image is the underside. Nothing in the instructions mention the strainer type/install.

 

[TheEplumber]

If I understand correctly, a 'dished out area' means a crater in the concrete to allow the curvature of the pan/strainer fitting?

I'm not sure if I need to do that on this install. This is my first shower pan install. The unit is the Sterling Accord shower pan.

http://sterlingplumbing.com/baths-and-showers/shower-stalls/Accord-R-Shower-72270100-detail?productNumber=72270100&resultId=-178850300-0

It's a thick pan made of solid Vikrell material, so it may accept the strainer within it's height/thickness? I'm not sure, but you've got me thinking now!

This is the showerpan and the second image is the underside. Nothing in the instructions mention the strainer type/install.

See note 3 of the instal PDF- http://sterlingplumbing.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/1156427_2.pdf

Use a "no-caulk" drain of your choice- brass, plastic. Set it in a bead of silicon when installing.
It will protrude below the base so dish out the concrete accordingly(purchase the strainer ahead of time to determine how much)
The base must be set level. The panels will be hard to assemble otherwise