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Framing Contractor
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You would install the lower trim first, then attach the upper trim with it slightly covering the edge of the lower. You may need to pack out above the lower trim to give you a solid backing for the upper. 3/4 plywood will probably do the trick for the packing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Rain screen

I imagine the bottom layer of trim on the stacked frieze should also rest on a layer of plywood (7.14 below) since shim strip seems like it would really difficult given the angle of the frieze board on the gable end.

Do I also need to keep the top of the rain screen open somehow?

(Image from the Hardie Trim installation manual)
 

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Framing Contractor
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The freeze board does not have to go over the siding. In my experience, it is more common to see the siding butted into the freeze.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Rainscreen

The furring strips will provide a gap of approximately 1/4" behind the siding. I think I'm going to use blocking (the "shim strip" in the drawing above) under the frieze board of a dimension such that it will sit slightly higher than the siding. I'm going to cut the the siding slightly short of this blocking to allow air to circulate properly. I saw an interesting article on the topic in Fine Homebuilding.
 

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I’d dado the bottom of the frieze board ( 1”+) and lap that over the siding so it sheds water, just like all of the siding pieces below it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I’d dado the bottom of the frieze board ( 1”+) and lap that over the siding so it sheds water, just like all of the siding pieces below it.
Yeah, I like the idea of rabbeting the frieze board. I think the gap to vent the rainscreen might be a lot less obvious if I could overlap where the frieze and the siding meet. Does such thing as a fiber cement dado blade exist? I was planning on using Hardie Trim.
 

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Framing Contractor
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Yeah, I like the idea of rabbeting the frieze board. I think the gap to vent the rainscreen might be a lot less obvious if I could overlap where the frieze and the siding meet. Does such thing as a fiber cement dado blade exist? I was planning on using Hardie Trim.
You will probably not like the hardi trim. The siding is nice, but the trim is very difficult to work with and ends up not looking very crisp. We generally use Azek for the trim on Hardi siding jobs. Azek is very nice to work with and can be cut using standard wood blades.
 

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Framing Contractor
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I was avoiding Azek because people seem to have gaps open up with the expansion and contraction of the product.
There are some concerns with that. There are also some better methods to the install. Pocket screws, biscuits, and slip joints have all proved effective. I urge you to find a job that used the Hardi trim and inspect it closely. The long edges come from the factory very rough and sometimes irregular. It is very brittle, difficult to nail, and cutting it accurately is akin to cutting a concrete slab.
 

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KemoSabe
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I love the look of that house.

That can be pulled off with PVC trim, however, expansion and contraction will be a concern. No amount of nails or glue/cement will prevent it either.

I've done tons of Azek work and in my experience, glued joints will hold for a year, sometimes two, but in my area, we have large temp swings through the seasons and eventually something will give and gaps will open up.

Miratec makes a good product, but I think it is prone to some movement as well and I'm not sure there are many profile options.
 

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Does anybody remember wood?:thumbup:

Believe it or not it still works good, always has. If it's going to paint 2x finger jointed primed Cedar is my trim of choice. Looks Great. Doesn’t have to be white. No expansion/contraction issues.

After the LP thing everyone thinks the world should be wrapped in plastic or cement. I disagree.

Spending all that money on “maintenance free” and “forever” guess what, they don’t exist.:no:

If the trend continues grandmas plastic couch covers will be back.:eek:

Put whatever you want on your house but I vote wood.:thumbsup:
 
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