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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Initially there was a 1/2" gap between the door and wall. We dealt with it but now the bar along the top has "come loose" so it moves a little too freely. I'm not sure how to fix this.

On top of this the entire bar is not straight but at a slight angle, presumably so the door would close but the builder never thought about water coming out if the door wouldn't sit flush against the wall.

He said that on the far right there are two screws that I can use to tighten/loosen to adjust the tension -- but that's not what it's for it's just a cover and the rod (or whatever is inside) has come loose.

Do I need a handyman to fix this up? Something I could do on my own?

It feels like I need to remove the bar, straighten it and put the sliding part of the door back together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Figured it out and saved myself minimum od $150.00 but what a pain it was to get the door off. And it's bloody heavy!

Appears that whomever put the door system together didn't find a stud behind the wall so it's resting on tile.

Spoke to a pro and said I could rip out the wall on the other side and add some backing so the screw goes into something solid, or...

Don't want to go the long, expensive route because my bedroom will be a construction zone so will have to figure something else out.

I'll add pictures, if it helps others, once I get on my computer.
 

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Just read the first post and was going to wish you well as not familiar with what you have. Then saw you figured it out so "congratulations".

As for adding a backer, that might not be as big of a project as you fear. More help if you go that direction.

Bud
 

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Bad planning on whom ever did the installation. Glass doors are heavy and need structural lumber to be attached properly. Do some research on the glass door mfg installation procedures and you will have good idea what is expected. Probably a doubled 2x4 with cross blocking running from floor to ceiling, or something along that line.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Master bedroom wall in the other side, so I could to the wall open but that will be some work as I'd need to patch it back up.

I pushed the screw in and it feels like there is a stud there, but needs a longer screw.
 

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retired framer
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You should be able to gauge the depth of the hole, you want something solid right up against the backer board.
If the same screws worked on the other wall??
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Did a lot of research on the Internet, and saw/read that I can use a toggle anchor. Bought one rated to 159lbs but it will require I drill into the existing hole to make it larger. Right now the screw that was used is a #8 and about 2" long. I bought some 3" and 3 1/2" long screws but am not sure if I want to risk using them and screwing into a pipe so may go with the anchor instead.

That said, I have to make the hole that is there a bit bigger, and the package says to use a 5/16" bit -- which I bought but there are two types. One which is a multi-bit that can be used on a variety of surfaces but also one that is meant to be used on natural stone tile and was 6x the price. My biggest worry is cracking the tile, so don't know which one I should use - suggestions?

Both bits are by Bosch, one is NS400 and the other is MP09

Looking at the NS400 (stone tile bit) it's totally circular along the base so I'm not sure if that will work with my drill, whereas the other (MP09) which is a multi-material bit has the hex shaft which will sit tight in the drill.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You should be able to gauge the depth of the hole, you want something solid right up against the backer board.
If the same screws worked on the other wall??
Yes, the screw on the other wall is identical but looks like they actually put some studs behind it so it's pretty solid. They just messed up/cheapen out on one side of the wall.
 
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