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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've always worked with painted moulding and caulk is clearly a wonderful thing. However, with natural wood, I'm finding it hard to hide the gap at the miter. I tried putty, but found it hard to get in the corners...very time consuming as well. Thought about mixing wood glue with saw dust, but I'm not sure how good of an idea that would be. I've included a pic, it's a very small gap, but I know it's there and will always see it. Any advise is greatly appreciated.

Cheers!!

Nate

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ha! I ask the stupid questions so other people don't have to. Got some in my tool bag and will give it a shot. I'm sure it'll be much easier than fighting with putty. Thanks!!

-nate-
 

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Do your stain and first coat on finish before filling---the filler will block the bores of the wood and make a light spot.---Mike--
 

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I've always worked with painted moulding and caulk is clearly a wonderful thing. However, with natural wood, I'm finding it hard to hide the gap at the miter. I tried putty, but found it hard to get in the corners...very time consuming as well. Thought about mixing wood glue with saw dust, but I'm not sure how good of an idea that would be. I've included a pic, it's a very small gap, but I know it's there and will always see it. Any advise is greatly appreciated.

Cheers!!

Nate


You work on a skill set where you transition from the caulk filling painted molding to the stained wood concept.
Ron
 
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Do your stain and first coat on finish before filling---the filler will block the bores of the wood and make a light spot.---Mike--
We can't stress enough how important coping your inside corners is on natural finishes. And cutting your pieces just a hair long too, so the sprung tension will create an even cleaner intersection.
 
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