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Well I found out that there isn't a ground wire running from my breaker box to the incoming water supply pipe. This sounds like something I can do myself but I can't find anything online about how exactly to go about this (how to make the bond, type of wire to use, where exactly to connect it, etc.). Does anyone know of a resource I can refer to?
 

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Install two of these, one before the meter and one after the meter.

 
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Discussion Starter #3
Install two of these, one before the meter and one after the meter.

Thanks k_buz. I'm curious, why do I need to install it both before and after? Why not just on the city side of the meter?

Also, there isn't any particular designated place in my Federal Pioneer breaker box -- I guess I can just attach it to any of the ground screw spots?
 

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The wire (grounding electrode conductor) from the panel neutral bus is connected to the pipe clamp on the city side (within 5 feet of where the pipe exits the house underground and before the meter).

The wire between the two clamps one on each side of the meter is called a grounding jumper. Bonding jumpers are also highly recommended (required in some cities) between isolated sections of metal plumbing with plastic sections in between.
 

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100 amp-#6 cu.

150 amp -#6 cu.

200 amp - #4 cu.

Clean the line with fine sandpaper to get it shiny. Stay back from the joints and meter fittings.
 

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You should also bond the hot water heater.

 
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Thanks. But if the ground is connected on the city side of the meter, what difference would it make if the meter were ever removed?
Several years ago a water dept service tech, in my town, got seroiusly injured when breaking a connection on a water meter. From what I remember from it a neutral wire on an incoming service was disconnected (failed) on either the house he was in or a neighboring house. The neutral path then became the water pipe between the two houses and used the good neutral feed on the connected service. The water meter bonded the incoming service to the house water system. When he disconnected the meter, he became the bond to the two, now separate, water pipes and took the full load of the electrical power being used in the house. They now have a policy of using a jumper cable when pulling meters weather there is a meter bond in place or not.
 

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You should also bond the hot water heater.

Should you do this for short copper stub-outs when the hot water heater is fed with Pex?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Because you are also bonding the metallic water piping system, so you can't have that bond compromised if the water meter was to be removed.
Ohh. So I guess there are circumstances where an electrical charge will go through your water pipes in the house even if the main electrical grounding is not attached to it.
 

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Ohh. So I guess there are circumstances where an electrical charge will go through your water pipes in the house even if the main electrical grounding is not attached to it.
It's a safety thing in case a hot wire is accidently touching the pipes. And to make sure grounds and any metallic items that you touch are at the same potential.
 

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This type of meter requires the jumper.




This type of meter does not require a jumper because removal will not interupt the bonding path.

 

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Thanks. But if the ground is connected on the city side of the meter, what difference would it make if the meter were ever removed?
With the grounding electrode conductor properly clamped to the city side of the meter, problems with neighboring houses' electrical systems won't affect removal of your meter. But a ground fault to a water pipe upstairs in your house could electrocute someone disconnecting the meter if there was no bonding jumper around the meter..
 

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This type of meter requires the jumper.




This type of meter does not require a jumper because removal will not interupt the bonding path.

""" This type of meter does not require a jumper because removal will not interupt the bonding path. """



Uh, that last meter happens to be the one in my basement, it's a photo I posted earlier today. There are two unions there. If you unscrew the 2 unions and pull out the meter assembly the only thing connecting the piping is air. Last I knew air is not a good conductor.
 

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""" This type of meter does not require a jumper because removal will not interupt the bonding path. """



Uh, that last meter happens to be the one in my basement, it's a photo I posted earlier today. There are two unions there. If you unscrew the 2 unions and pull out the meter assembly the only thing connecting the piping is air. Last I knew air is not a good conductor.
The meter is removed by taking apart the unions on either side of the meter. Not the connections (which may be soldered) above and below the meter yoke. Removal of the meter does not interupt the grounding electrode path. Removal of the yoke will interupt the GEC path. I have the same yoke.

I should clarify that if the connections for the yoke are soldered, I do not require the bonding jumper because the fittings cannot easilly be disassembled. If the fitttings for the yolk are not soldered then I require the bonding jumper. Either way removal of the water meter will not break the GEC path.

Here is a better picture of the yoke;



Removal of this meter will not interupt the GEC path and if the yoke connections are soldered, no jumper is required.
 
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