you do not want any fittings under the concrete slab. Make all connections above the slab.
How do I bury copper?
I am dividing an old hallway closet to make more room for my bathroom/kitchen. The closet used to contain the hot water heater and a washing machine. When we removed the drywall we were surprised to find the cold water supply line for the washer is 3 copper lines tee'd to the one supply line. All in all, I have 9 water lines for 2 fixtures. Is this an old school manifold (1965 Texas Slab)? All of the lines are bent in the concrete and in bad shape. We are going to air them out to figure out where they go before we do anything.
Can I bust the concrete and reconnect them in the slab and repour a new surface over them?
I have to move this wall. It is the new home for the refridgerator.
I have formally decided I do not like slab foundations!
Can I bust the concrete and reconnect them in the slab and repour a new surface over them?
I have to move this wall. It is the new home for the refridgerator.
I have formally decided I do not like slab foundations!
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
So how do I move them below grade? do I hire a plumber to braze them correctly? transition to another material? They will be in the middle of an open room? Cap them and run new lines through the attic for the fixtures affected? Failure's not an option.:no:
Dig
Dig out around the manifold where the lines are coming out of the concrete, build abox around the main lines coming out of the slab over to a point where you can hide them in the new wall run new lines to the location no joints under slab, re concrete make all connections in the box you built put aluminum or steel cover over box that can be accessed if need be. Make sure the cover is level with the existing slab so you can tile over it or install other flooring over it and note where it is in a file or on the wall somewhere in-case you sell the house or need access. I know it sucks.
I can't wait to hear all the replies now it's going to get good.:yes:
Dig out around the manifold where the lines are coming out of the concrete, build abox around the main lines coming out of the slab over to a point where you can hide them in the new wall run new lines to the location no joints under slab, re concrete make all connections in the box you built put aluminum or steel cover over box that can be accessed if need be. Make sure the cover is level with the existing slab so you can tile over it or install other flooring over it and note where it is in a file or on the wall somewhere in-case you sell the house or need access. I know it sucks.
I can't wait to hear all the replies now it's going to get good.:yes:
thanks sultini. I had just thought of the access panel idea and went to the local store. they just suggested I go all the way through the concrete and reconnect under / cover with plastic / reconcrete the surface. the only thing I can't figure out is..... are the lines horizontally running IN the concrete or Under? They do pop up on a center footing but you can tell they're bent from the left and right (on the sides of the beam). They're claiming the slab is only 4" thick next to the center beam. It's gonna be messy but I can do that. If it's thicker I may have to go with some type of access panel.
Impossible
I know I would break the supply line if I were digging. Good Luck you'll need it. No other option right??
Maybe the plumbers out there have other options lets wait and see.
It's almost impossible to tell which way they are coming from under ground I would be sure to shut off the main and start digging and be prepared to make the access box right where you locate the horizontal run or where it stubs up from the vertical position. Now remember when you start digging be ready to do alot of work before restoring the water.thanks sultini. I had just thought of the access panel idea and went to the local store. they just suggested I go all the way through the concrete and reconnect under / cover with plastic / reconcrete the surface. the only thing I can't figure out is..... are the lines horizontally running IN the concrete or Under? They do pop up on a center footing but you can tell they're bent from the left and right (on the sides of the beam). They're claiming the slab is only 4" thick next to the center beam. It's gonna be messy but I can do that. If it's thicker I may have to go with some type of access panel.
I know I would break the supply line if I were digging. Good Luck you'll need it. No other option right??
Maybe the plumbers out there have other options lets wait and see.
believe it or not, they guys at home crapo actually knew the manufacturer of my house and have seen problems with the plumbing. the lines are bent out of the concrete and the concrete is cracked in the direction of water fixtures. I'm gonna go at it today, need two holes. renting a jackhammer. they were dead on about the 4 inch slab too, broke through last night with the drill. Wow, I didn't even know the builder of my house!
I've decided it would be best to just put it all under the slab. I don't think plumbers will come to my rescue. They're too busy in the "professional's forum" looking at hilarious inspection pictures. :laughing:
I've decided it would be best to just put it all under the slab. I don't think plumbers will come to my rescue. They're too busy in the "professional's forum" looking at hilarious inspection pictures. :laughing:
Remember
" NO JOINTS UNDER SLAB" You must be able to get to the joints.
believe it or not, they guys at home crapo actually knew the manufacturer of my house and have seen problems with the plumbing. the lines are bent out of the concrete and the concrete is cracked in the direction of water fixtures. I'm gonna go at it today, need two holes. renting a jackhammer. they were dead on about the 4 inch slab too, broke through last night with the drill. Wow, I didn't even know the builder of my house!
I've decided it would be best to just put it all under the slab. I don't think plumbers will come to my rescue. They're too busy in the "professional's forum" looking at hilarious inspection pictures. :laughing:
" NO JOINTS UNDER SLAB" You must be able to get to the joints.
If there was a slab leak would the plumber build a box or would he just joint the thing and recover with concrete?
Fine fine.....I'll build a box. I can already hear my husband now....."what do you mean the ceramic floor piece has to be made to come up....." So much drama
Fine fine.....I'll build a box. I can already hear my husband now....."what do you mean the ceramic floor piece has to be made to come up....." So much drama
Liar liar
Liar liar pants on fire you know your not building a box.
Look at it this way you build a box now you never have to build a box again or maybe if you bury it it will never leak or you might have to jack hammer the whole floor up and ruin the ceramic. Do you Gamble???????
If there was a slab leak would the plumber build a box or would he just joint the thing and recover with concrete?
Fine fine.....I'll build a box. I can already hear my husband now....."what do you mean the ceramic floor piece has to be made to come up....." So much drama
Liar liar pants on fire you know your not building a box.
Look at it this way you build a box now you never have to build a box again or maybe if you bury it it will never leak or you might have to jack hammer the whole floor up and ruin the ceramic. Do you Gamble???????
NO, no pants on fire here. Thanks for your help though. I figured out exactly where each line went and came from, can you believe the pressure is from the backyard hose bib? Anyway, I tied them together last night, built my box this morning, rebar'd a little, sanded, packed and refilled the hole with concrete. The only joint now is one tee fitting. DONE.
Just waiting for the cure so I can build my new wall now. Pretty sweet though it came out perfectly flush with the floor after all of the crafty forming I did. Will have to do some creative tiling however.., it will barely be visible under the front edge of the fridge.
Got the quickrete 5000, wonder how long it will actually take before I can put a 2x4 across a smaller section. It's been 6 hours now and it's very firm/hard to the touch.
Anyway, thanks again. :thumbup:
Just waiting for the cure so I can build my new wall now. Pretty sweet though it came out perfectly flush with the floor after all of the crafty forming I did. Will have to do some creative tiling however.., it will barely be visible under the front edge of the fridge.
Got the quickrete 5000, wonder how long it will actually take before I can put a 2x4 across a smaller section. It's been 6 hours now and it's very firm/hard to the touch.
Anyway, thanks again. :thumbup:
Good job
Good Job, someonw who actually takes advise. Hope all's well.
NO, no pants on fire here. Thanks for your help though. I figured out exactly where each line went and came from, can you believe the pressure is from the backyard hose bib? Anyway, I tied them together last night, built my box this morning, rebar'd a little, sanded, packed and refilled the hole with concrete. The only joint now is one tee fitting. DONE.
Just waiting for the cure so I can build my new wall now. Pretty sweet though it came out perfectly flush with the floor after all of the crafty forming I did. Will have to do some creative tiling however.., it will barely be visible under the front edge of the fridge.
Got the quickrete 5000, wonder how long it will actually take before I can put a 2x4 across a smaller section. It's been 6 hours now and it's very firm/hard to the touch.
Anyway, thanks again. :thumbup:
Good Job, someonw who actually takes advise. Hope all's well.
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
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