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Discussion Starter #1

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Naildriver
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From the picture, it looks snug. Now the box itself needs to be screwed into the wood better. See the gap? Maybe better pictures would tell a different story.
 
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Never installed one, but the specs say surface mount. Doesn't seem like it should pull away from that 2x. I see a screw in the bottom tab, did you put a mounting screw in the top tab?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
The fascia board is warped. So putting a screw in one tab sticks out the other tab.

how can I macgyver it to make it not move around?
Is there something I can put between the box and light?

The flood light base is exactly 4", so it won't go over the electrical box lip. That's why it moves around.
The light is only secured by one center screw.
 

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I also notice when doing a close up, there is a bent screw or nail head that may be interfering with the box not be able to mount flush to fascia.

Try removing it and see if it helps. As you say, it may be the fascia itself that is warped so it may not help anyway. Just a suggestion.
 

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As stated already, the fixture base in the OP is designed to be pulled against a wall board, brick, soffit board. Etc.

The 4 inch round WP box works better IMO, whenever using single exterior light heads when this cover is used in the pic..... A WP seal is assured with this covers gasket seal being used, sits between the threaded cover and the 4 in.round box.

But of course, it means removing the threaded light sockets from the factory base, and then installing them in the threaded cover. The WP boxes and threaded hole cover plates also come in white and even bronze I believe . JMO.
 

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You can unscrew the bottom knockout seal from the WP box and reinstall the motion sensor there, and use the WP cover in post #7 to hold the 2 sockets.
 

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Greg offers an excellent solution. I agree that your installation is better simplified as he describes. Additionally, the idea to use the bottom knockout may be beneficial so the motion detector does not conflict with head positioning.

It's likely the wiring for the heads and motion detector are thin/stranded so take care when making new connections to use correctly sized wire nuts. For exterior installations like this, I tape around the wire and wire nut combos using Super 88.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
you guys are right, this thing isn't weatherproof at all.

and all your ideas are genius.

I bought a spare flood light, so I can disassemble and see if it all works good


Might as well build my own all-metal flood light instead of this plasticky crap.
 

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Since it is under a roof, does it really need to be weatherproof?

Not necessarily, but you also want it to be bug proof. I mean really, as long as the electrical is all correct, it's probably fine. But then I didn't write this thread. The complaint is it doesn't fit right, and that's because it's not supposed to fit that way. You could caulk it all and call it a day if you don't want to "do it right", and it will probably be fine for a decade or two.
 
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