[Bradeno]

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...N#.UQHImR3C1pp

I am trying to create a 5"X8' casing piece with a cross-section similar (doesn't have to be precisely identical, just want rounded flutes) to the one in this picture, but can't find the proper router bit.

How would this piece be done? Would I need a custom fab'd router bit or could someone post a link or two to let me know what tool I need to create this?

Thanks!

 

[woodworkbykirk]

link doesnt work

 

[Bradeno]

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...nosearch2-2-_-NA-_-100077700-_-N#.UQHf-R3C1po

Hmmm, I dunno why. I just grabbed the link a few hours ago.

There it is again.

Hopefully it will work this time.

 

[woodworkbykirk]

thats not a flute profile thats more of a multi bead profile. to create that you need a molding knife and a shaper table

 

[funfool]

Tell us more about the project, why 5" tall trim and will you paint it or stain, where will it be going?

 

[ktkelly]

http://www.woodcraft.com/PRODUCT/20...ode=10INGOPB&gclid=CMCZkoG9grUCFQSqnQodGFoAUQ


This bit, multiple passes, after you set up a jig/guide, or router table.


Simple but still a PIA.

 

[cleveman]

I trimmed out two houses using 4" wide door and window casing with rosettes in the corners and plinth blocks on the bottoms of the doors. The base was also 4" wide.

The casing was simply rounded over and had two grooves. The grooves were fairly close to the edges, so they gave it that up and down and back up look of a flute.

All you need for this is a roundover bit and a "bullet" bit. I think the "bullet bit may be called a bullnose, but that doesn't make much sense.

My trim was white oak, and I spent many hours sanding by hand. I got into those grooves with something like a 3/8" piece of pipe with sandpaper coiled around it. There just is no simple way to do this, no easy button.

This is why I would urge you towards a double, round bottom groove instead of the flutes. It will be nearly impossible to sand those flutes. And has been pointed out, you will need a planer head and knife to make them.

By the way, my base was a simple round-over as well, and I went block to block with it.

The trim package was best described as "craftsman". The stock was 7/8" thick, so you really had some depth.

 

[joecaption]

Not worth all the bits and time to make one, just buy it already made.
It's called fluted not beaded.
http://www.houseoffara.com/products/fluted-mouldings/all

 

[Bradeno]

Its is for the end cap on a back wall of a tiled shower and tub that has an open closet behind it. The shower backwall is double plastered thick on the nonshower side.

The width of 5" is the tile thickness plus the stud plus the plaster.

Cant find any trim of that width premade.

 

[joecaption]

Got a picture of where it's going to go?

 

[Bradeno]

Here is the shower and a closeup of the 5" wide end cap I am trying to cover in my bath reno.

I think Menards has something that will work, prefab, but it is MDF, so I have no intention of using it next to a shower. Other than that, I believe the widest they come are 5" or 5.5"

Also, I was just planning on using a pine 1X6, ripping it to 5", routering it for the bead/flute/roundover pattern, and painting it white.

Thanks

 

[Bradeno]

Oooh, that pointed roundover bit might work. What do you guys think?

They don't sell anything that at the Menards here or True Value.

Any other creative ideas? Could I somehow use a 4" premade casing and do something to the 2 outside edges that would look nice? That house of fara site doesn't show any 5" rounded flutes.


Damn.

 

[oh'mike]

 

[oh'mike]

You need a shaper like the one in the picture above---

I suggest to also look at exterior PVC trims---there are many available for trimming out pillars and doors that look similar to the one in your link--in wider widths---

 

[Bradeno]

The sahper looks pretty complicated and I have never used one. Any good explanation of what a shaper is and how it works? I doubt that is feasible for this project

*Will the pointed round over bit on a router work? This seems like the simplest option

Also, could you link me to the PVC trim you were thinking might work.

Would it look as classy as wood? I have never used outdoor trim inside.

Thanks

 

[oh'mike]

Painted pvc is fine indoors---

The pointed round over bit will do what you want----I would suggest using a router table if you have one or could make one--that cut could end up looking shaky of hand held---

 

[Bradeno]

Great. There is no way I would try and do this handheld

http://www.amazon.com/Magnate-Point...9089267&sr=8-1&keywords=pointed+roundover+bit

Is this a good bit or is the one in the previous link going to give me a smoother better cut? I can get this in 2 days . Do you think 3/8" radius is the appropriate radius/depth for the rounded flute?

Thank you.

Also, I would still like to know how that shaper works. I have never encountered one.

 

[cleveman]

I would suggest a roundover bit with a bearing. You can use it without a fence that way, and also hand-held.

This is the most used bit in my shop.

Secondly, you need a "bullet" type bit for the flutes. It won't have a bearing, so you'll need a table with a fence on it. Just take a 4' piece of wood and cut a half circle out in the middle and use this as your fence. If you want a flute 1 1/2" in, then set your fence at 1 1/2" and go to town.

 

[oh'mike]

That shaper goes into a table saw---a set of cutters (3 pcs.) are installed in the shaper head--

After adjusting the height---the board is passed over the shaper blades----it's the best way to add complicated shapes to the face of a flat board---

I use it for making bead board----fluted details in base moldings and other long details---

I don't use it often--but I find that there is nothing better at the price for certain work.

 

[Bradeno]

Ok

I think I get it. Cool stuff!

when he says a bit with a bearimg, he means one of those multifluted router bits from the previous pics, right?
thanks