house wraps on a pole barn

5728 Views 1 Reply 2 Participants Last post by Windows on Wash, Jan 15, 2016

viper

Discussion Starter · Jan 15, 2016

I have done the home work and looks like if I decide to install the wrap, Tyvek is the only game in town. It is NOT cheap, and I am certain it is WAY overpriced but....whatev.

This brings me to my next question of thoughts on it's use in the first place. I am trying to obtain an air barrier and a vapor guard with perm rating here. This is a pole barn build. Basically will be the corrugated metal sheeting, then Tyvek, then glass batts in the stud spaces, then a poly facing with vapor barrier that is typically applied over batts in buildings, which is the interior finish.

I mean, technically i might be able to get a decent air barrier out of the metal panels but I sort of want something over the insulation on the outside to ensure minimal air migration, and protect against possible water droplets and dirt.

Around here, it is uncommon to use a wrap between frame and sheeting but that seems to go back to the "we have always done it this way".

Glass cannot perform on spec if BOTH sides of the stud space are not properly sealed. I intend to double lap fold the Tyvek, cap nail, and tape.

I guess for the price and hassle in install, I want to be sure I am making a wise decision here.

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Windows on Wash

· #2 · Jan 15, 2016

If you are just doing this once, I would just hand nail them with the button cap nail or if you want to, by a Stinger cap stapler.

I haven't seen a cap staple in white personally and I am not totally sure of the rationale there.

As far as air sealing goes, you can get pretty good with your Tyvek details if you are taping seams and overlapping everything properly. There most be other WRB options, but I am not sure any of them will be that much cheaper than Tyvek. Check with local building supply and siding companies.

The tear out strength of a cap nail vs staple has never been an observed problem to me. If the wind is blowing hard enough to tear it off, it seems that the WRB will open up at the fastener vs. pulling the fastener out.

It isn't going to be uncovered for that long so I would think that staples are fine.

Only other think I would do, if you are using a corrugated steel wall panel, is make sure that you have the foam closures on both the top and the bottom. If they are the open cell foam (i.e. allow water to drain out), they should help create a static air space behind the metal which would help with the dead air space and insulation value.

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