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House painting help

1100 Views 9 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Red Dog
Our home was built in 1983 (Miami, Fl) It's a 2 story house where the bottom half is stucco and the top half is horizontal siding planks.
The facia boards and other decorative trim is cedar wood. The house was painted in 1995 with Behr flat exterior latex. The paint has held up extremely well.

But, I have a fireplace where the exterior was done with some kind of fiber board that's rotting and has been falling off. I have 3 choices, replace it with PT plywood, Hardiboard or stucco.

Got an estimate for all the work and i have some questions. If I go with the PT plywood the contractor wants to prime with an oil based primer. I know latex paints have come a long way. So what's best going over the PT plywood?

I asked if he would prime coat everything else and he said he would apply a clear masonry sealer then 2 coats of latex paint. This struck me as somewhat odd. (I didn't clarify if he would prime the siding)

Is it ok to apply a clear masonry sealer over a previously painted stucco that isn't peeling or chalking?

We are a few years from retirement and need to get things fixed up!

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Can you post a picture of this chimney?
No way would I use PT plywood!
It would take a few months for it to dry out enough to coat.
Paint does not like to stick to it.
It's full of knots and voids.
Loves to delaminate.
PVC lumber for the trim and James Hardi lap siding would hold up a whole lot better.
Here's a picture of the chimney. I assume if I used kiln dried plywood that would take care of the moisture problem. Also, a friend said to apply shellac over any knots before priming.

My first choice was hardipanel (with the cedar finish) but I'm afraid the cost would be much higher. I went to the James Hardie web site to find a Hardie contractor near my zip code, but that came back with zero! (but they will continue looking for me)



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As far as the clear sealer as a primer on the existing stucco, I see no problem with that. It's common to use sealer/stabilizers as a primer on masonry even if it isn't currently apparently deteriorating. Seal Krete Original, and Loxon Conditioner and a couple products I've used for this.

If PT plywood is used, it would need to be kiln dried or aged before painting like Joe said.

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Want a chimney that will end up looking exactly like what you have now in a few years then use plywood.
There should have been a cricket on the high side of that chimney to direct water away from it.
PVC 5/4 outside corners, PVC lumber, Z molding, then J molding where the siding comes close to the roof and Hardie lap siding or any of there other siding products would look and hold up a whole lot better then plywood if you only want to deal with this once.
I'm no expert on painting or chimneys. . . but is that a working fireplace chimney? Isn't wood a fire hazard?
Well, we've never once used it. The house was one of the last in the development phase and it already had that option built.
The fire area inside is lined with bricks. Above the is 10" steel flue going all the way up. There's a UL label just below the damper.

My wife wants to go with stucco (we spotted a few other homes in the community that had been converted to stucco, some look good others not)
what would the cost be to eliminate it all together (you never use it) or install a gas insert instead? which ever direction you choose to go, plywood is likely the least expensive option now, but will fail again down the road.
I have a similar issue on my home (just bought it in January) We're going gas I and DONE!
PT doesn't hold paint well and if it was painted it should be primed with a slow drying oil primer to soak in as much as possible. Age has nothing to do with when PT is ready to paint it's the moisture content. !4 percent or below and it's ready. Doesn't matter if it's been there a week or a year. Although in the humidity of Miami it may take a while.
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