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Discussion Starter #1
Hello-
I have a State electric water in our house. Normally, like all water heaters, it runs fine, however, Saturday afternoon we found there was no hot water. I tracked the issue down to it's internal circuit had tripped and needed to be reset (hitting the red button by the temp controller). First time that's ever happened. Earlier that morning, we were doing laundry and there was plenty of hot water, but then none. At first, I thought it was a power overload - we had both washer and dryer running and I was running a (midi) lathe and grinder in my shop. The heat pump kicked on and I did notice a brief flicker in the lights, but they're not all on the same circuit, so I think that may be ruled out.

A while after I reset the button, we noticed that the water out of the tap was REALLY hot. When I took a reading, the water was 157°F! Our water normally ran a bit hot, maybe 128-130°F, but that's crazy! (not to mention dangerous!) I checked the controller on the tank and it's scale is "HOT-A-B-C", "C" being hottest. The mark is just a smidge after the "A". (The bottom controller is set to "HOT" which is even lower than the "A" setting.)

The only hot water we used last night was we ran the dishwasher before bed. This morning, we had no hot water and I had to hit the red button on the tank again. After 5-10 minutes, hot water was back. (I didn't stick around to see if it reached scalding or not...had to go to work.)

I've tried to look on State's website, but it appears my model isn't listed anymore? (CD5 52 2ORT973) Could this just be a bad element that needs replaced? I really don't want to spend the $90 for the service call just to put in a new $30 element.

Any ideas/suggestions? Thanks!

 

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Master General ReEngineer
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A while after I reset the button, we noticed that the water out of the tap was REALLY hot. When I took a reading, the water was 157°F! Our water normally ran a bit hot, maybe 128-130°F, but that's crazy! (not to mention dangerous!) I checked the controller on the tank and it's scale is "HOT-A-B-C", "C" being hottest. The mark is just a smidge after the "A". (The bottom controller is set to "HOT" which is even lower than the "A" setting.)
Ayuh,.... I'd sooner think the T-stat is gone, rather than the heatin' element...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If that's the case, do I need to replace both or just the one with the reset switch? Pfft, they're less than $20 each. Even if I replace both, I'm still under the $90 service call.
 

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Doing it myself
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Normally if a t-stat is tripped, i change them both out, and I also check the resistance on the elements. If it's in range, I leave them alone. Had one recently that measured in range, but it was completely blown apart inside so it kept tripping the thermostat.

If you're in doubt, change all the electronics on it and everything will be A-ok.


:thumbup:
 

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Roofmaster
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Huh?????

Why do you have all that crap on the same circuit?????

Washer: Home Run

Hot Water Heater: Home Run

Lathe: Depends

Grinder: Depends

Who wired your house, Bubba?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
jagans, maybe the way I described that setup was confusing. The washer and dryer are on separate circuits, as is the water heater and heat pump. The shop has it's own dedicated circuits as well. The whole house has a 100 amp breaker and what I was trying to say was if all those, plus the heat pump was running, maybe it was putting a strain on the whole house load.
 

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Roofmaster
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100 Amps???

100 amp service is really low for a house with a heat pump, an electric water heater etc. etc. Heat pump systems usually have an emergency electric resistance heat strip which is a dead short also. I have a small ranch built in 1993, I have gas heat, clothes dryer, and HWH, and I have 200 Amp Service.

It sounds like you might need to upgrade your service entrance amperage
 

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A "Handy Husband"
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Normally if a t-stat is tripped, i change them both out, and I also check the resistance on the elements. If it's in range, I leave them alone. Had one recently that measured in range, but it was completely blown apart inside so it kept tripping the thermostat.

If you're in doubt, change all the electronics on it and everything will be A-ok.


:thumbup:
Agree change both t-stats. Measure resistance of elements, should be about 13 ohms.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So, I just got back from the kitchen/bath supply store and picked up a kit that had both elements and both t-stats - that plus the special wrench and I'm only out $50.
Standard service calls are min $90 in our area, so I've saved $40. That's a few beers and a pizza!

Thanks for all your help-
 

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Roofmaster
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Are you done yet?

Were you able to get those elements out? I had an electric water heater and they did not put never seize on the threads. I could not get them out, and had to replace the water heater. By the way what was the name of the store? Sounds like a decent deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I haven't tried it yet (still at my day job). I did buy the special wrench that (fingers crossed) will do the job.

I got the parts at a Ferguson's. If the back of their showroom, and through a door it's like a hardware store.
 

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yes agree with others..change out upper and lower t stats...the heater is tripping safety...its to hot.....elements can be changed with big socket makes it easy..ben sr
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I just got this tip from the folks at State Industries:
"When you replace the parts, just be sure to have the thermostats sitting flush with the tank. If they go in crooked, it will cause the reset to pop also by reading the room temperature instead of the water temperature."

Good advice.

Any other tips I should know?
 

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Roofmaster
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Huh?????

When you inset the thermostat with a new gasket, dosent it automatically seat flush with the tank??? And how can a thermostat that is sticking inside a tank read room temperature???? Care to elaborate?:eek:
 

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Roofmaster
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Thermostat

Either the person that told you that is laughing their head off right now, or they are the same one that called in the radio show in Minnesota and complained about the road department because they put deer crossing signs on the interstate, and she had three accidents because of it.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=525835607426627
 

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A "Handy Husband"
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When you inset the thermostat with a new gasket, dosent it automatically seat flush with the tank??? And how can a thermostat that is sticking inside a tank read room temperature???? Care to elaborate?:eek:
T-stat does not stick inside the tank. It is held against the outside of the tank with a spring clip. There is no gasket.

If it is not flat against the tank it will mot work properly but it will not read room temp.
 

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When you inset the thermostat with a new gasket, dosent it automatically seat flush with the tank??? And how can a thermostat that is sticking inside a tank read room temperature???? Care to elaborate?:eek:
Please explain sticking inside the tank
 

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i would check the lower element first, might be shorted. second check the bottom thermostat. the lower element runs last so that would be the place to start.
 

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Doing it myself
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If the thermostat isn't touching the tank, it won't read the right temperature. This is especially a problem if the lower thermostat isn't touching, and it overheats the tank (not reaching temp and shutting off) causing the upper thermostat to trip.


You also don't need "never seize" on the threads. They have a gasket, and don't need to really be that tight and the threads are VERY coarse. I've only had one that ever gave me trouble, and i'm betting it was way over-tightened.
 
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