DIY Home Improvement Forum banner
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The water company recently installed a new water meter which came with an increase in water psi that caused my old 30 gal hot water heater to give way. Prompting me to install a new 40 gal tank figuring I would have more hot water but I have much less. With the 30 gal I had enough for someone to shower as well as a full tub after. With the new I don’t have enough for a full shower or a 1/4 a tub depends on
Who goes first. Evidently the increase in pressure also caused a leak under my sink I didn’t didn’t find til a few days later. Fixed that and checked everywhere for any other leaks finding none in hopes the leak fixed the issue but still same problem. Any help is greatly appreciated cuz cold showers aren’t fun
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,356 Posts
Electric water heaters have two heating elements, upper and lower. Each heating element has a thermostat which can be adjusted.

Reccomend you check temperature setting of thermostat.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,792 Posts
The water company recently installed a new water meter which came with an increase in water psi that caused my old 30 gal hot water heater to give way. Prompting me to install a new 40 gal tank figuring I would have more hot water but I have much less. With the 30 gal I had enough for someone to shower as well as a full tub after. With the new I don’t have enough for a full shower or a 1/4 a tub depends on
Who goes first. Evidently the increase in pressure also caused a leak under my sink I didn’t didn’t find til a few days later. Fixed that and checked everywhere for any other leaks finding none in hopes the leak fixed the issue but still same problem. Any help is greatly appreciated cuz cold showers aren’t fun
Nothing to do with your issue, but just curious, what is the new water pressure psi?? Check with water pressure gauge available at any big box store for about 8 bucks. Then check out any cold water hose bib like washer or outside hose bib.

water pressure over 80 psi may cause problems with your other fixtures as you have been experiencing.

anything over 80 psi needs to be addressed with a water pressure reducing valve installed on main line. Additionally, this may require you to install an expansion tank on your wh if you don't already have one installed. Reason being it creates a closed loop system. when the water heats up and expands it has no where to go but out the tpr valve on wh. Just a suggestion.

Hope you get your wh working right soon bassmaster.
 

·
Member
Joined
·
1,635 Posts
Are you certain that both elements were immersed in water before the power was turned on to the heater? This could account for a faulty element.

Is the incoming cold water still going to the input of the new heater? Sometimes different water heaters have different configurations. If they are reversed this could account for a lack of hot water.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I turned the water on and allowed the heater to fill completely b 4 turning the power on to make sure I didn’t burn up an element. Checked all connections to make sure nothing was crossed. Checked electrical everything checks out. Rechecked everything and same issue. Elements are set to a higher temp a little too high Imo of Lower=145F Upper=140F. They max at 150. I’ve read the lower should b set a few degrees higher. Pulled both elements out and ohmed them and they check out ok. As I know that if U ohm them without draining the tank they will show ok. I have a cutoff on the inlet and outlets so I can airlock it and remove the elements losing only like a bottle cap full of water. Losing my mind over this heater. Even before u lose hot water when u r n the shower u are constantly adjusting the cold water constantly turning it down. I worked as a plumbers apprentice for about 10 yrs and never ran into this issue so please help and all is appreciated
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
643 Posts
Did they install an expansion tank? If not, this could be the cause of your leaks.


New water meters have check valves in them. Old ones didn't. When water heats up it expands and the pressure greatly increases. In the old days when there were no check valves this wasn't a problem because you basically had the entire city's piping system to expand into.



Now you need an expansion tank in order to not blow the relief valve and/or faucet seals.


As far as your less hot water issue, it could be that your new tank has less wattage or btu's than your old one did. So even though there is more water inside, it heats up more slowly. Not much you can do if that is what's going on.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,501 Posts
Did you check to see if the manufacture forgot to install the cold water inlet dip tube?
Also do you have moen single handle faucets installed? I have seen those cartridges cross connect hot to cold when O rings fail in cartridge.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,257 Posts
I recommend installing an adjustable TP valve on your cold water line that dumps outside the house or to a drain inside. Your new water meter is likely one of the anti backflow types and your system pressure will skyrocket if you don't have an expansion tank installed as bfrabel mentioned.

The adjustable TP valve will do until the tank is installed or forever if you choose. They are adjustable from 150 psi down to 50 psi. You can rig one temporarily by just adapting it to a hose bib or your washer supply line. They are actually required in some localities.

If you don't take steps to prevent this pressure spike, it may blow one of the faucet supply lines in the middle of the night and I can personally tell you what an expensive deal that turns out to be.

Adjustable relief valve
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,257 Posts
The hydrostatic pressure that is created from the expansion of water as it is heated can go very high. That expansion is much greater in winter than summer since the incoming water is colder. This pressure can do great damage to the water system in the house. It can be worse during the night when nobody is using any water which allows the pressure to rise without getting bled off.

Since water meters are being replaced with the new anti backflow type (check valved) to prevent pollution of the main from the branch line, hydrostatic pressure has become an issue.

Install either this adjustable relief valve or an expansion tank, if you have neither you are at risk.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top