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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there,

It's almost go time... and I'm getting nervous.

This is a new construction that has been at lockup for a year. I'm finally ready to install the 2100sqft of 8" channel/lap red cedar this week.

Can I ask a few questions?

Who here thinks the end of every siding piece that is cut needs to be sealed? My siding is black (after burning it with a tiger torch). I'm afraid the cut ends will show the fresh wood.

Has anyone seen black (or dark) end grain sealer?
Maybe I can add black pigment to some!

Are my windows' (no trim) aluminum drip caps supposed to go under the peel and stick flashing and Tyvek?
My windows were installed with their nailing flange over the Tyvek.:furious:It looks like I'm going to have to pull the Tyvek out from behind the top of windows to make the traditional flap over flashing. It makes sense to have the drip cap under there but I haven't seen any Youtube vids of anyone doing it.:eek:

Back to searching, reading, hoping, searching, reading, hoping...

Thanks for all the other replies you guys have done over the years. What a great resource.
 

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Yes the Tyvek should have been installed over not under the drip cap.
Not worth removing the cap, cutting the Tyvec and redoing now.
Just install the Window tape over it.
Make sure you install the tape to the sides before you do the top.
Just can not imagine the logic of painting or staining a house black.
Besides the look which is a personal choice, black will super heat that siding causing all kinds of issues with the finish and the wood under it.
It also will show every speck of dirt and dust.
Dark colors also fade fastest.
 

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Besides the look which is a personal choice, black will super heat that siding causing all kinds of issues with the finish and the wood under it.
I understand your point but the dude lives in Nelson British Columbia so the issue with solar heat is considerably less than Virginia. They probably get bright sun less than 45% of the daylight hours over a year.
 

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That's almost the same project I've got going right now. New windows, doors and 1,800 sq ft of Dutch Lap cedar, but mine is stained 'natural'. Had it all done at the mill, and plan to touch up all the cut ends as I go.
 

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My siding is black (after burning it with a tiger torch)
Fascinating. I never heard of Shou-Sugi-Ban till now. Goes back centuries and adds insect and fire resistance along with 80 years of apparently no maintenance. Good for you. I would love to see some pictures as you go along.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The project has a page on Facebook called, "The Pinner." Have a look if you're interested.

Thanks for the tips! I'll let you know how things went.
 

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I'm striking out on Facebook. :( How about a direct link? :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Cedar Siding - End Sealing

Well I've bought the siding from a small mill in town. They're not experts on these matters and don't want to take responsibility. Burning the siding is sort of a new thing around here so I'm sort of blazing a trail.

There are installation instructions from other cedar siding producers but they don't talk about sealing. It's mostly how to nail it and recommended storage environment stuff.

The drip cap could be a different story. I guess I could try to find out who made it and look for diagrams.

I've looked on All Weather Window's website but there's no buildup drawing that includes the cap.

I'll keep looking though.

So far it sounds like I should do all the peel and stick flashing with the drip cap underneath it all. I still think it's strange that I've never seen this done in any Tyvek Youtube videos.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Just thought I'd let you know that I've been reading (on a site called "realcedarsiding") that the ends need to be sealed. I've asked some pro's and they're using a latex paint on EVERY end.

Had to put the project on hold for a few months. I'll update this thread when I get going again.

Thanks!
 

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I used to have a problem with mahogany deck boards wicking. When I replaced boards, I did an experiment. I put clear silicon caulk on the end grain of each replacement board.I put a small bead on each end, took a plastic putty knife to spread even. I don't know if this is an acceptable method, but it worked for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yeah? It doesn't sound like a bad idea. I think I'll slap that latex on the ends after the cut and let it dry for a while and put it up half cured. It's not like anyone will ever see the ends anyway.

It's one of those things where we aren't going to know it's working for a years though...
 
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