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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Purchased a wireless thermostat for my sun room a couple months ago and can't get it to work.

An electrician and an HVAV guy looked at it and said "oh this will be easy" and it still doesn't work.

Anybody willing to help a novice install one?

Very simple setup - heat only (hot water baseboard), no central AC, one zone dedicated for the sun-room

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Just took another look at things from the zone valve back to the furnace.

It looks like the power to my zone valve is coming from a relay.

Do I keep the power from the relay to the zone value and just add the two wires from the interface module to them or do I go from the relay to the interface module and back to the zone valve?
 

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You should have 3 wires. Not sure what type of zone valve you have so I'll assume it's a Honeywell. The TR connection of your zone valve should also have a wire going to C on the interface. The TH/TR connection on the zone valve should also have a wire going to R on the interface. Then there should be a wire from TH on the zone valve to W on the interface.
This should do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Your obviously knowledgeable on this stuff so forgive my lack of understanding if this is a dumb question -

If I run three wires from the Taco valve to the module this will work even if only two (power) wires run from the relay to the valve?

If yes (makes sense) -

TR on the valve to C on the interface.
TH/TR on the valve to the R on the interface.
TH on the valve to W on the interface.

However - I have a Taco valve that is only labeled 1, 2, 3 (top to bottom) as in the picture. Don't know what TR, TH/TR, TH would translate to with my Taco valve.
 

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You must run a common from the transformer to the module.
The 1 terminal of teh zone valve is not a 24 volt output. It recieves 24 volts from the stat( in this case the module).
2 of the zone valve goes back to common of the transformer.
3 of the zone valve is not required, unless you have another relay that starts the circ. In which case 3 and 2 of the zone valve ould onect to that relays TT terminals.


Might help if you identified what componets you have that were wired to the thermostat and zone valve originally. Model numbers also help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Thanks for the help..here's what I have -

Incoming power
to
Honeywell electronic aquastst (L7224/L7248)
to
Taco zone valve #672 (white wire on #2 screw, red on # 3 screw, green not used
to
Basler elect (class 2 XFMR transformer). Two terminals/ red and white wires only.
to
sunroom Taco zone valve (white wire on #2, red on # 3, green not used
to
(new) Honeywell YTH6320R1001 wireless. The model number on the actual interface module is THM5320R
((The sunroom had a very old thermostat that was just hooked up the red and white wires to the Taco valve))


Hope this helps
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
I wired as shown but have a problem. My installation instructions tell me that after wired "press the connect button" on the interface module and it will blink green (telling me it's searching for wireless devises). However, I get no light at all... and the wireless thermostat is flashing "no signal"

Any way to test if power is getting to the module?
 

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If you have a multimeter.
Check for 24 volts across the R and C terminals of the module.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Went back and looked over everything again and I gave you some bad info…the aquastat wires go directly to the transformer.

Here’s what I have now -

Red & White wires from aquastat to transformer (unchanged)


R & W wires from transformer to #2 & 3 on zone valve (unchanged)

wire from #1 on zone valve to W O/B on module

R wire from transformer to R on module
W wire from transformer to C on module

Sorry for the confusion.
 

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When the wires (guessing the electrian or HVAC guy you had wired it that way) from the transformer are connected to the TT terminals of the aquastat, and the 2 and 3 terminals of the zone valve.

If power was turned on to both of them. It probably shorted out the transformer, and possibly the aquastat.

The aquastat has its own transformer.
So it can't be wired that way, without damage occuring to itself and or the transformer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I have to accept I'm in over my head. One more question to try to understand and then I am stopping before I make things worse.

As is - 4 zones, 3 original to the house the 4th added in the 1960's

The aquastat feeds 3 zones with one wire (group of transformers and zones valves) and the newer zone with a separate wire. The newer zone wire goes from the aquastat to a transformer to the zone valve.

Did a little test - If I run the wires from the aquastat directly to the zone valve (drawing) and turn the power back on the furnace will not run. When I put the wires back..aquastat to transformer to zone valve it works fine.

If the module has its own transformer (and based on the test I have to go from the aquastat to a transformer first) shouldn't the wiring go aquastat...module...zone valve?
 

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No. the Yth6320 EIM doesn't have its own transformer.

The aquastat does. The aquastat transformer is probably burnt out. And now its working on the transformer for the zone valves.

The Taco zone valve powerhead. Has 2 sets of contacts in it.

The contactos between 2 and 3 only make after the valve is open.
Taco uses them for their end switch. They should only be connected to the TT terminals of the aquastat.

With 2 also connected to the common of the transformer. And 1 connected to the the stat(or in this case) the EIM's W terminal.

Are the other zone valves wired the same?

How long did the electrian and HVAC guy mess around with the wiring?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Very interesting. The aquastat has a power line going in and two wires coming out..

The first wire goes directly to a transformer and ends at a Taco valve (this is the line for the new sun-room)

The other (original) line goes directly to a Taco valve, on to the 2nd valve and on to the 3rd before ending at a transformer.

As far as I know the 4 zones have been wired the same for many years.

The installer worked on the thermostat between remodel projects in the house for a couple months. I would say he tried to wire it 5 to 6 times. He called in an electrician who tried for a few hours.
 

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Generally. The zone valve 2 and 3 terminals all can go back to the same terminal on a relay.

There are several ways to wire up a system like yours.
Here is a drawing showing 2 ways.

The black line wires are the common way. The red wires would be an optional way. And the noted black line wire would not be used, or connected.
 

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