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My home was built in 1908. I need to install a sump pump pit but it needs to be as close to the wall as possible. Does my home have a footer? Do I need to stay at least 8 inches from the wall?
Home foundations
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typically foundation walls do have footings, however that is not always the case. do you have a concrete slab in your basement? the purpose of a sump is to collect water from the perimeter of the basement slab and discharge it from the basement.
you can always cut the slab (if present) and see if you have a footing. if so just move your sump over to clear it.
typically foundation walls do have footings, however that is not always the case. do you have a concrete slab in your basement? the purpose of a sump is to collect water from the perimeter of the basement slab and discharge it from the basement.
you can always cut the slab (if present) and see if you have a footing. if so just move your sump over to clear it.
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Probably no footer.
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I have a concrete floor, not sure what you mean by slab...
Drive a grounding pin or a piece of rebar into the ground in the basement on a slight angle toward where the footer should be, and see if you hit anything. If you have a concrete floor, drill a hole in it with a hammer drill and do the same. Once you figure out where you want it, the four or six inches that the footer sticks out from the wall wont make much difference in the hole size, because you have to dig a pretty big hole for clean stone around the sump.
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Okay let me give you gracious repliers the full story.
In the back corner of the basement is where I used to have my washer and dryer. One day I came down and the washer backed up and water was all over the floor. The washer drain pipe was hooked up to a pipe that was sticking up out of the same corner. Well, that pipe broke somewhere underneath the house and the washer would no longer drain. Apparently any water that came into the basement drained through a hole in the floor right next to the pipe, so naturally moving forward, anytime we've had any major rain the water was backing up into the basement because of the broken drainage (I assume that the drain pipe and the hole in the floor all led to the same drain pipe under the house). It was manageable for a while because it took many inches of rain for the water to back up. Now the water backs up when we get less than an inch of rain. So instead of spending thousands, my thought was to install a sump well and move the water out of the basement that way.
Now for the confusing part – around most of the perimeter of the basement are 5/8" holes spaced a few feet apart drilled in the floor about an inch from the wall. I thought those might lead to some kind of French drain system because there is also a natural slope to the corner with the hole and the pipe. When I poke down on the hole, it's just mud (I expected to hit concrete through the holes). So now I'm thinking what are those holes for?? So water can come up underneath the house and drain in the back?? And installing a sump pump, will that work??
My walls don't look like they're going to cave in or anything, but someone before me decided to coat the walls with some sort of thin layer of lathe/concrete and then paint over it (looked nice when we moved in 6 years ago). Now the lathe coating is separating from the wall because water comes through the block. I chipped some of the lathe away and the block is badly discolored, and not terribly wet, but it's moist back there. This is really freaking me out and I don't trust waterproofing companies what so ever.
I believe I can manage the water with the sump well, but do I have a much bigger issue on my hands?
Thank you for taking the time to give me some advice.
In the back corner of the basement is where I used to have my washer and dryer. One day I came down and the washer backed up and water was all over the floor. The washer drain pipe was hooked up to a pipe that was sticking up out of the same corner. Well, that pipe broke somewhere underneath the house and the washer would no longer drain. Apparently any water that came into the basement drained through a hole in the floor right next to the pipe, so naturally moving forward, anytime we've had any major rain the water was backing up into the basement because of the broken drainage (I assume that the drain pipe and the hole in the floor all led to the same drain pipe under the house). It was manageable for a while because it took many inches of rain for the water to back up. Now the water backs up when we get less than an inch of rain. So instead of spending thousands, my thought was to install a sump well and move the water out of the basement that way.
Now for the confusing part – around most of the perimeter of the basement are 5/8" holes spaced a few feet apart drilled in the floor about an inch from the wall. I thought those might lead to some kind of French drain system because there is also a natural slope to the corner with the hole and the pipe. When I poke down on the hole, it's just mud (I expected to hit concrete through the holes). So now I'm thinking what are those holes for?? So water can come up underneath the house and drain in the back?? And installing a sump pump, will that work??
My walls don't look like they're going to cave in or anything, but someone before me decided to coat the walls with some sort of thin layer of lathe/concrete and then paint over it (looked nice when we moved in 6 years ago). Now the lathe coating is separating from the wall because water comes through the block. I chipped some of the lathe away and the block is badly discolored, and not terribly wet, but it's moist back there. This is really freaking me out and I don't trust waterproofing companies what so ever.
I believe I can manage the water with the sump well, but do I have a much bigger issue on my hands?
Thank you for taking the time to give me some advice.
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May be holes that were drill to treat for termites, who knows.
90% of water proofing need to be done outside not inside.
Working gutters.
Grade running away from the house.
No mulch or flower beds up againt the foundation.
Outside of foundation waterproofed.
Possibley a french drain.
90% of water proofing need to be done outside not inside.
Working gutters.
Grade running away from the house.
No mulch or flower beds up againt the foundation.
Outside of foundation waterproofed.
Possibley a french drain.
finally, the REST of the story :furious: yep, leaking basements rarely heal themselves :laughing: good thinking not repairing what you presumed was a broken pipe - not that it might've resolved the issue but it probably exacerbated leaks by not being timely & properly repaired :thumbsup:
if you've block walls, its extremely likely there's a conc foundation but installing a sump pump's only 1 part of managing leaks,,, as joe said, 90% of the work is OUTSIDE - usually less $$$ stopping wtr out there than managing it downstairs :yes: no idea what the holes are for & striking mud shouldn't surprise - after all, it is wet, isn't it ? block foundations aren't the best & rapidly succumb when attacked by soil acids,,, no idea either on the 5/8" holes - its difficult trying to conjure pics of your bsmt w/o pics & data ( floor slope, eg - ? " in a 4' level ),,, so if YOU're confused, imagine how we are :whistling2: reading this thread
parging's common if trying to hide/disguise leaks/damage OR finish a room & evidently no one ever tested adhesion ( drylock-type mts. too ),,, wtrproofers have expertise resolving leaks but, as in life, its buyer beware so educate yourself & bargain,,, IF you believe only a sump & pump will fix it, you'll ignore the problem & manage the resulting leaks,,, but it IS your home !
if you've block walls, its extremely likely there's a conc foundation but installing a sump pump's only 1 part of managing leaks,,, as joe said, 90% of the work is OUTSIDE - usually less $$$ stopping wtr out there than managing it downstairs :yes: no idea what the holes are for & striking mud shouldn't surprise - after all, it is wet, isn't it ? block foundations aren't the best & rapidly succumb when attacked by soil acids,,, no idea either on the 5/8" holes - its difficult trying to conjure pics of your bsmt w/o pics & data ( floor slope, eg - ? " in a 4' level ),,, so if YOU're confused, imagine how we are :whistling2: reading this thread
parging's common if trying to hide/disguise leaks/damage OR finish a room & evidently no one ever tested adhesion ( drylock-type mts. too ),,, wtrproofers have expertise resolving leaks but, as in life, its buyer beware so educate yourself & bargain,,, IF you believe only a sump & pump will fix it, you'll ignore the problem & manage the resulting leaks,,, but it IS your home !
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With the house being as old as it is,i doubt there is a weeping tile system on the outside of your foundation,but as long as your getting water from a light rain,you may want to think about an interior weeping tile system,as long as your thinking about a sump,the two go together,take a look at the link i'll attach.
http://www.aquaguardinjection.com/r...n-waterproofing/interior-weeping-tile-system/
http://www.aquaguardinjection.com/r...n-waterproofing/interior-weeping-tile-system/
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If I was going to do some digging I would make sure everything is done right. I hire a guy with heavy equipment and just tell him what to dig he only charges me around 400 bucks a day. Waterproofing companies do charge a lot more than that.
1908 home w/toe drain ( ' weeping tile ' ) is highly unlikely,,, impo best bang for your $'s an interior perimeter drain system installed next to the footer as referenced by bird2x4 :laughing: in my experience, that franchise is usually @ the high end of pricing scale among pro's but their real claim's finished look & marketing/promotion,,, wtrproofers have few secrets from ea other be it bsmt sys, everrdri, bee-dri, or gawda'mighty-dri :yes: just tarring walls & filling a trench w/stone will be a large waste of $$$ - there's much more to it & even current bldg codes don't have it right :no: as far as ' heavy equip ', most of our deep digs are w/mini-ex - rarely do we need anything approaching 25K#,,, other'n that, its bosch brute breakig gun, pick, shovel, & 5gal plastic bucket :thumbsup:
http://www.everything-about-concrete.com/basement-floor-waterproofing.html - not shown's filter cloth lining excavation & over top of 57 stone, drainage holes in ea block's cells/webs/ miradrain to cover holes, & 6mil plastic vapor barrier under replaced conc,,, we like to incl pvc cleanouts every 50' & @ either end of system,,, no efficiency difference 'tween perforated sewer/drain pvc or the hdpe pipe
pro designations are advantageous & show commitment to quality work/biz practices - natl assoc waterproofing & structural repair contractors - bbb - angie's list - chamber commerce,,, other than that, its bargain-bargain-bargain,,, if you buy at the 1st ' sit ', you paid too much,,, lettem wait - you'll bet a follow-up phone call offering another ' sit ' ( discount time ! - working in n-hood, commercial crew idle, etc,,, maybe you wo't get the best $ you could but it'll be less than 1st pitch'd,,, remember, whoever blinks 1st, LOSES,,, remember staying @ 1 sit for 6hrs 'fore the customer blink'd,,, GOOD LUCK !
http://www.everything-about-concrete.com/basement-floor-waterproofing.html - not shown's filter cloth lining excavation & over top of 57 stone, drainage holes in ea block's cells/webs/ miradrain to cover holes, & 6mil plastic vapor barrier under replaced conc,,, we like to incl pvc cleanouts every 50' & @ either end of system,,, no efficiency difference 'tween perforated sewer/drain pvc or the hdpe pipe
pro designations are advantageous & show commitment to quality work/biz practices - natl assoc waterproofing & structural repair contractors - bbb - angie's list - chamber commerce,,, other than that, its bargain-bargain-bargain,,, if you buy at the 1st ' sit ', you paid too much,,, lettem wait - you'll bet a follow-up phone call offering another ' sit ' ( discount time ! - working in n-hood, commercial crew idle, etc,,, maybe you wo't get the best $ you could but it'll be less than 1st pitch'd,,, remember, whoever blinks 1st, LOSES,,, remember staying @ 1 sit for 6hrs 'fore the customer blink'd,,, GOOD LUCK !
interesting - had 3 calls yesterday for wtr leaks,,, the 1st had tried to have ' his guys ' stop it 2x - got that job at our $,,, 2nd was the next door condo owner who, probably because her n'bor hadn't fix'd her problem back in aug '12, was now having trouble,,, 2nd's also an atty ( :furious: OUCH ),, we had submitted another proposal to the condo board the previous day essentially the same as aug + increase in $$$ 
3rd sit was another condo assoc - property mgr's guys also tried to stop it 2x,,, thankfully for us, all disregard'd/ignor'd 4 rules of wtr: 1, runs downhill; 2, takes path of least resistance; 3, rushes to fill voids; & 4, seeks its own leve,,, 3 sits, 3 sales :thumbsup: its fun batting 1,000 !
3rd sit was another condo assoc - property mgr's guys also tried to stop it 2x,,, thankfully for us, all disregard'd/ignor'd 4 rules of wtr: 1, runs downhill; 2, takes path of least resistance; 3, rushes to fill voids; & 4, seeks its own leve,,, 3 sits, 3 sales :thumbsup: its fun batting 1,000 !Joe is absolutely correct. Rainwater has to be managed outside, not inside. Water is the Universal Solvent, and given enough time, will break down anything. Block walls, (especially Cinder Block) not excepted. Were I you, I would check your grade adjacent to the house and get everything running away. Add flexible extensions on downspouts.
Find out what is going on with that pipe in the basement and terminate it. Maybe a rubber expansion plug? You cant run your washer to nowhere. It has to go into your sanitary sewer.
I would guess that the previous owner drilled those holes to allow water to drain down through the floor. Then did a Half Baked job on the outside of the foundation.
Not sure why you are calling a parge coat a Lathe, which is a machine for turning metal or wood, but maybe you mean Lath. Like in lath and plaster, which you certainly would not use on the exterior.
I absolutely dispise waterproofing companies that put drainage on the inside of a home and coat the inside walls. This condemns your foundation to death In my opinion.
Find out what is going on with that pipe in the basement and terminate it. Maybe a rubber expansion plug? You cant run your washer to nowhere. It has to go into your sanitary sewer.
I would guess that the previous owner drilled those holes to allow water to drain down through the floor. Then did a Half Baked job on the outside of the foundation.
Not sure why you are calling a parge coat a Lathe, which is a machine for turning metal or wood, but maybe you mean Lath. Like in lath and plaster, which you certainly would not use on the exterior.
I absolutely dispise waterproofing companies that put drainage on the inside of a home and coat the inside walls. This condemns your foundation to death In my opinion.
running washer/sump pump discharges into sanitary systems is a LARGE no-no in most communities,,, it must be discharged on TOP of ground,,, most waste-wtr treatment plants aren't design'd to handle addl waste wtr
in fairness to wtrproofers, they work to make a living,,, don't know of any that won't 1st suggest exterior work,,, usually just after hearing the $, they help prospect up off the floor then offer the 1st ' drop ' - the interior sub-floor perimeter ' french drain ',,, in the end, the customer always decides & signs contracts
hint - co's usually have a set $ for work - ext, int, whatever - its call'd ' par ' & is job's min $,,, the 1st price always incl ' bounce ',,, IF the buyer signs ' over par ', co's split ' overage ' ( addl $ over par ) w/' inspector ' ( salesman ),,, think cops carry guns to protect us ?, salesmen want bonus $ as do employers,,, roofer/siding men play the same as that's where the $ are,,, its a ' game ' - whoever blinks 1st loses
if no sale on the 1st call, the co calls again &, often, sends a different inspector who'll offer the work at a lower $ because ( fill in the blank ) but still over par,,, this is all call'd ' negotiation ',,, we had 1 salesman who ( 1 nite went w/him to learn ) got the customer to cancel their order w/another co, sold our sys @ more $, & even told customer he didn't know how it work'd but it did,,, i never EVER complain'd again when signing his bonus checks,,, he was GREAT !
'par' salesmen to not last w/companies
in fairness to wtrproofers, they work to make a living,,, don't know of any that won't 1st suggest exterior work,,, usually just after hearing the $, they help prospect up off the floor then offer the 1st ' drop ' - the interior sub-floor perimeter ' french drain ',,, in the end, the customer always decides & signs contracts
hint - co's usually have a set $ for work - ext, int, whatever - its call'd ' par ' & is job's min $,,, the 1st price always incl ' bounce ',,, IF the buyer signs ' over par ', co's split ' overage ' ( addl $ over par ) w/' inspector ' ( salesman ),,, think cops carry guns to protect us ?, salesmen want bonus $ as do employers,,, roofer/siding men play the same as that's where the $ are,,, its a ' game ' - whoever blinks 1st loses
if no sale on the 1st call, the co calls again &, often, sends a different inspector who'll offer the work at a lower $ because ( fill in the blank ) but still over par,,, this is all call'd ' negotiation ',,, we had 1 salesman who ( 1 nite went w/him to learn ) got the customer to cancel their order w/another co, sold our sys @ more $, & even told customer he didn't know how it work'd but it did,,, i never EVER complain'd again when signing his bonus checks,,, he was GREAT !
'par' salesmen to not last w/companies
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Here it is MANDATORY to run the washer discharge into the sanitary sewer. The only thing you can direct elsewhere is rainwater (gutters and sump).
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