Hole saw through 4 2X6s?

1779 Views 17 Replies 9 Participants Last post by HotRodx10, Jun 3, 2020

farwellbooth

Discussion Starter · May 31, 2020

The drain pipe on the right with the rag in it drains a sink. It is too high coming out of the wall for a lower dual sink bowl/disposer I want to put in. I need to lower that pipe 4-6 inches.

Can a hole saw go through the 4 2X6s you see? Appreciate any recommendations. May need some sort of extension too.

I will need to put another T in below the existing T. Can I use a clamp version versus gluing in a T? I can't really move any of the vertical pipes up or down to glue in a T joint.

In the lower left I removed the threaded cap. What is this for? I believe the pipe goes up and vents to outside through roof. I thought about maybe use the lower threaded connection as the new drain but the trash/recycle cabinet goes there and then the drain pipe would be in the way.

Thank you

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Nealtw

· #2 · May 31, 2020

You drill one 2x6 and then remove the plug from the cutter and drill the next till you are thru.
A believe you can get slip couplings for ABS that don't have the rib in the middle so you can put it on the pipe and slip it up onto the join. I have not used one so not sure how you glue them. Or you could use Fernco rubber couplings.

SPS-1

· #3 · May 31, 2020

For that setup, you would need a couple of drive extensions to, just to reach with your hole saw. 1/4" hex drive extensions are common. But that size hole saw may have a 3/8" hex -- probably there are 3/8" drive extensions available. A right angle drill should be be nice to have for that job.

Bud9051

· #4 · Jun 1, 2020

A different approach, but not sure if it passes code.
You could notch all 4 at 1.5" deep to accommodate a 2x6 flat inserted across all.

Then notch the middle of that recess 2 more inches for the pipe. If pipe is a little bigger you will need to adjust the notch or 2x6 insert. I was trying to maintain the 1.5" safe depth for protection.

When plumbing is complete just cut a tight fit 2x6 and press into place with glue and screws.

I can't see where the resulting patch wouldn't be sufficiently strong.

Just a thought.
Bud

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TheEplumber

· #5 · Jun 1, 2020

I use a 2-1/8" self feeding bit for all my 1-1/2" pipes. And in your case, I would add an extension after I drilled the single stud. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-2-1-8-in-High-Speed-Steel-Self-Feed-Bit-48-25-2122/100090746
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...-Universal-Extension-Bit-48-28-1030/100645490
Run the self feeder in untll the wood chips stop flowing out the hole. Then reverse out the bit to clean the hole and then repeat the process.
As mentioned- use a right angle drill such as a Timber Wolf or Hole Hawg...

The plug you removed is a cleanout plug. Your plumbing code requires them at kitchen sinks.

I bet you can cut in a 2x11/2x11/2" San tee after you cut off the trap arm. Look outside at your roof. If you see a vent sticking up along side the window, in line with the existing vent pipe, chances are good that you will be able to raise the vertical pipe enough (1") to glue in the tee in a normal fashion.
The tee you describe is not code compliant....

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dj3

· #6 · Jun 1, 2020

To do what you want, you might need to temporarily remove the cripple stud. Re-install it later, to gain some working room.
The plug at the bottom is probably a clean out access.

HotRodx10

· #7 · Jun 1, 2020

If you remove the cripple stud on the right and the pipe section on the left (which you will need to anyway to put the new tee in), you may be able drill through 2 studs from each side, and not need as many extensions (maybe none). You'd have to drill a pilot hole all the way through (preferably the same size as the bit in the hole saw).

Alternately, a forstner bit might get you all the way through from one side. The shank on those is usually about 4"; combined with length of the drill chuck, which should fit in the hole, it might be enough to get you all the way through. If not, the pilot hole approach I mentioned above would definitely get you there.

surferdude2

· #8 · Jun 1, 2020

You may be able to push that vent up when you get it cut loose. Check on the roof to make sure it's free of mastic at the roof jack. It may move up enough to make the job easier.

If not, there's no problem using band couplings for the new tee.

Incidentally, this will be a good to use the old trick of sawing through the plastic with some mason's line. It'll prevent you from doing damage to the outside wall.

Was that window sill electrical in a box? Interesting installation there... looks like the window should have been a bit higher.

huesmann

· #9 · Jun 1, 2020

I actually think you're gonna have to core through 5 studs—I don't know that there's enough space between the 4-pack and the single one next to it even to get a right-angle drill in with the hole saw bit on it.

Reactions: 1

Bud9051

· #10 · Jun 1, 2020

I don't know. I have most of the drills and extensions and wouldn't hesitate to buy more if needed, I'm a tool nut. BUT my post #4 would take 30 minutes with a circular saw, no added cost, scrap 2x6, and done, at least the path through the 4 2x6's.

Bud

Nealtw

· #11 · Jun 1, 2020

Bud9051 said:
I don't know. I have most of the drills and extensions and wouldn't hesitate to buy more if needed, I'm a tool nut. BUT my post #4 would take 30 minutes with a circular saw, no added cost, scrap 2x6, and done, at least the path through the 4 2x6's.

Bud

Your saw cuts 2 1/4" deep. you would need 3 and bit

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Bud9051

· #12 · Jun 1, 2020

I have a trained woodpecker that will do the extra.

Bud

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farwellbooth

Discussion Starter · #13 · Jun 1, 2020

surferdude2 said:
Was that window sill electrical in a box? Interesting installation there... looks like the window should have been a bit higher.

There was a box in there. A flat outlet box without GFCI right next to the sink, built in '82. A few of them! You can see the junction box below the window sill too. I think they originally wanted the plugs there but once the counter tops went in at 36 inches the outlets wouldn't fit so they ran them up to the sill. That's a water view through window so nice/important to have the windows lower...

farwellbooth

Discussion Starter · #14 · Jun 1, 2020

Guys thanks for all the help. Regarding the new line coming off a santee, lower than the existing one. How much do I slope this? I need to keep an air pocket across the line so it will drain correctely, yes?

TheEplumber

· #15 · Jun 1, 2020

farwellbooth said:
Guys thanks for all the help. Regarding the new line coming off a santee, lower than the existing one. How much do I slope this? I need to keep an air pocket across the line so it will drain correctely, yes?

I believe you are UPC code. It states all drain lines to be sloped at 1/4" per ft.
The pipe you refer to is called a trap arm. Per UPC, it can not be more than 3'6" from the weir of the trap to it's vent. (Top opening of the tee)

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farwellbooth

Discussion Starter · #16 · Jun 3, 2020

TheEplumber said:
I use a 2-1/8" self feeding bit for all my 1-1/2" pipes.

I also need to drill some holes through studs for 1/2" PEX pipes. What size drill bit do you use for 1/2" water lines?

thanks

TheEplumber

· #17 · Jun 3, 2020

farwellbooth said:
I also need to drill some holes through studs for 1/2" PEX pipes. What size drill bit do you use for 1/2" water lines?

thanks

I use 1-3/8" self feeding bit.
Then I use EZGlide insulators around the pipe as needed. I'm sure others will drill smaller holes though

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HotRodx10

· #18 · Jun 3, 2020

1/2" PEX has an OD of 5/8", so something bigger than that.:wink2:

PEX Tubing Technical Specifications

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