[Mack]

I could use some help on how to fill this space. It is drywall then plaster, what is the best way to feather this in? I looked around at some of the houses, that attempted this job, some people made a shelf or hung a picture over the spot. I know that I got to frame it out how do I avoid the foot print that is left? Thanks

 

[Paragon]

So what you are asking is how to make the hole unoticeable correct?

You will have to engage your framing skills first of all which you are aware of. You can overcome the plaster on top of the drywall by setting the framing at the depth of the drywall you are going to use (based upon your specific situation as I have not seen your project)

Next you need to engage your drywalling skills. Cut the rock as tight as possible but not water tight. If the opening is 25 1/4" wide then cut the rock 25" wide and you will fill the space when you mud. You can go tight if you are good enough it just entails a little trim trim trim or rasp rasp rasp if it ends up being too tight.

When you mud this area you will need to skim the field of the opening (middle) and then feather out the edges. How far do you feather the mud out is your next question, right? You need to determine that but remember if you are not going to cover the area completely then you have that light above that will tattle on your imperfections if you don't get the coverages sufficient enough.

The main point I am trying to make is that the way you do it is with skill and there is not an easy answer to give you on this one. i am sorry and I know you were looking for a straight forward answer however it just depends on your project and like I said unless I see it in person it is hard for me to really say what the best approach is.

Good luck and be safe!

James

 

[Thurman]

Paragon is so right on with this one. In my "Handyman" business I have ran across exactly what has been described here: sheet rock over plaster in a bathroom, an older medicine cabinet needing to be removed and the hole filled in--nicely. The first one I did I knew I was going to loose monies on but I also knew this was a situation where the experience could not be bought. This one took me three days before I was happy enough with the seams to go on with the final coats and sanding. It did turn out nice and as Pargon mentioned, the overhead lights were the devil with me until I and the homeowner were happy. Proper framing is indeed the key to having the new sheet rock fit in exactly flat with the existing wall. I like to use as long a level as I can now to assure the new piece is flat with the existing wall before nailing in. Patience and persistence will get you through this job very nicely. Good Luck, David

 

[Paragon]

excellent reply thurman and my answer wasn't too bad for a guess, lol.

I just wanted to mention when you do these repair projects or any drywall project in general if you go around the room after the first sanding. I sand between coats 2 and 3 and hope to have 3 coats be my last go at er with a hand sanding after coat 3 to bring it to a level 5) with a halogen light I glance light off the wall or set the light on the flooor kind of shining it down the wall. The light will show EVERY imperfection on that wall. It is the best way to ensure you are not going to have any trouble spots to deal with later after texturing and paint. You might have an occasional rough spot but the shining of the halogen sideways top to bottom & bottom to top will usually identify any problems and get you to a level 4 or 5 and a beautiful finished product.

Good luck, be safe!

 

[Gary in WA]

As they said. And don't forget the paper tape on all joints. Hang a light where the overhead light will be, especially if changing the location is part of the remodel.
Be safe, G