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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all, newbie here,
A few years ago I built a deck with a pergola over it (14x20). I put 6x6 treated poles in the ground about 5 feet deep with the idea of putting a roof over it one day. I currently framed around the top using treated 2x12's with 2x10's running crossways with lattice on top. I am planning on putting a hip type roof over the deck.
My question is should I keep the treated boards around the top? Or should I use non treated 2x8 on the inside and outside and put a cap on them for the rafters to sit on?
Would 6 (3 each side) 6x6's down the 20 foot side be enough to support a roof made from 2x6's using a 2x8 ridge beam?
Any advice will be welcomed.
 

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How about a picture of what you have and drawing of what your thinking about doing.
 

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Disabled wood vet
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You look like you know what you're doing. What you have there looks good and stout.
I would have notched the 2x12's into the 6x6's, but you have plenty bolts in them.
I'de just put 2x6 flat in between the 2x12's so you have solid nailing for your rafters.
And I don't understand the rest of your question.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Will treated lumber be ok? Should I use regular wood on top of the treated 2x12's?
When I built it, I had friends come over and tell me that 4x4 posts would have worked just as well, but I wanted to over build it. I am glad I did now. I have never built a Hip style roof before so I am a little cautious.
I will research the heck out of it before I do anything though--it drives my wife crazy.
 

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Treated just costs a lot more.
If you don't think it will get wet, save some money and use regular lumber.
If you have any questions about the roof, just post them. I can verify all your numbers for you.
 

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Exterior Construction
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Treated just costs a lot more.
If you don't think it will get wet, save some money and use regular lumber.
If you have any questions about the roof, just post them. I can verify all your numbers for you.
+1

there are no agreement issues between PT and regular lumber. If you have any flashing that are going to rest against anything PT, they will need a spacer or slip layer. PT is reactive with other metals.
 

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Those tapered 2x8s overhang quite a bit. To be on the safe side, I would cut them about 6 inches and lay a flat 2x6 on top of their ends for your plates, as suggested. I would also put 2x6s on edge as blocks near the overhang to stiffen those cantilevers.
 

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abracaboom said:
Those tapered 2x8s overhang quite a bit. To be on the safe side, I would cut them about 6 inches and lay a flat 2x6 on top of their ends for your plates, as suggested. I would also put 2x6s on edge as blocks near the overhang to stiffen those cantilevers.
He's putting a roof on it. Those tails need to be cut off flush anyway.
 

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abracaboom said:
Not neccesarily, Titanoman.
What's he going to have, tails sticking through the roof?
His rafters are going to sit on the 2x12's with a 2x6 sandwiched in between flush with the top, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
After looking at it some more I think I will remove all of the treated wood that is tied to the 6x6's, notch the 6x6's and install untreated 2x8's on the side and cap them with a 2x6. With the rafters, I will have a foot overhang and the roof will be a 6/12 pitch. Thoughts?
 

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RoninArk said:
After looking at it some more I think I will remove all of the treated wood that is tied to the 6x6's, notch the 6x6's and install untreated 2x8's on the side and cap them with a 2x6. With the rafters, I will have a foot overhang and the roof will be a 6/12 pitch. Thoughts?
Put both 2x8's together in the 6x6 flush with the front and you don't need a "cap" as 3" is plenty.
(or put a 2x4 between the posts on the backside to make 4-1/2").
 

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What's he going to have, tails sticking through the roof?
He could cut the rafters without a tail and let the joists provide the overhang. Not what I would do with his setup, but I thought he wanted to save as much of the existing frame as possible.

If the beams were 6x10s and the joists overhanging 4x6s, mounting the rafters without tails on the ends of the overhang would look very nice.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Has anybody here used an adjustable hip square? I saw one on youtube and it looked pretty easy. I have not used a square to lay out rafters in quite a few years so I am concerned over the length and where to cut the "beak". I will have to study some more--I know enough about it to know that I don't know very much about it.
I am now deciding on whether to use 2x4's for rafters every 16" or use 2x6's every 2'. Will 2x4' be enough for a 6/12 roof pitch?
I would like to thank everybody for the feedback--you guys are awesome.
 

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RoninArk said:
Has anybody here used an adjustable hip square? I saw one on youtube and it looked pretty easy. I have not used a square to lay out rafters in quite a few years so I am concerned over the length and where to cut the "beak". I will have to study some more--I know enough about it to know that I don't know very much about it.
I am now deciding on whether to use 2x4's for rafters every 16" or use 2x6's every 2'. Will 2x4' be enough for a 6/12 roof pitch?
I would like to thank everybody for the feedback--you guys are awesome.
I guess you're talking about a squangle.
Never had much use for one.
How big is your span?
Don't use 2x4.
Don't frame anything 2' on center.
 

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RoninArk said:
The structure is 14x20 which will make it 16x22 with a foot overhang.
Your commons will be 93.91" plus the overhang, so I would go with 2x6, and 2x8 for the hips and ridge.
 
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