Just had a new roof put on over the original builders 3 tab. The roofer used GAF Architectural. Here is the issue. The original builder added ridge venting on the entire ridge and then came down 4 feet at the hips. The roofer didnt like this and simply removed those vents going down the hip and shingled over the 3 inch wide openings where hip vents existed. Now I have a small leak when it rains as can be seen in the picture. It's not dripping wet, just wet and soaked from the opening in the plywood. He said this is normal. Suggestions ? Advice ? THANKS
Hip issue with water ???
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Joined
·
37,499 Posts
Take a picture of this area outside.
And no it's not "normal" for it to leak.
And no it's not "normal" for it to leak.
No leak in a new roof is "Normal" the original roof should have been removed, the hips should have been fully sheathed, on three supports minimum. Felted in. Then ice dams over the hips, then properly shingled. Your roofer is a used car salesman. You have an unsupported "springboard" condition along your hips, ridiculous. Please read pros and cons of recover, note that the only pro is less money but even that makes no sense if you think about it, because value = cost divided by time.
Joined
·
604 Posts
"he said it was normal" wow that made my lol.
+ 1 to both joe and jagans comments.
Going over is not prefered and this is yet anyother reason not to do it. Your roofer took the easy way out.
Question: Ridge venting is common in California, but i have Never seen it carried partially down a hip. Is this common? It just seams like that would look very ugly.
+ 1 to both joe and jagans comments.
Going over is not prefered and this is yet anyother reason not to do it. Your roofer took the easy way out.
Question: Ridge venting is common in California, but i have Never seen it carried partially down a hip. Is this common? It just seams like that would look very ugly.
advice
Thanks for the reply. What should I ask the roofer to do at this point? There are also a lot of exposed nails around the hips that were sealed. The roofer said they shouldnt leak. Would it be fair to ask for an entire re-roof, at cost, at this point with proper tar paper and ice shield at the hips ? Material is around $5000 so would it be fair to add another $2000 to remove 2 layers of roof (28 squares) and perhaps $2000 labor. Need advice thanks.
Thanks for the reply. What should I ask the roofer to do at this point? There are also a lot of exposed nails around the hips that were sealed. The roofer said they shouldnt leak. Would it be fair to ask for an entire re-roof, at cost, at this point with proper tar paper and ice shield at the hips ? Material is around $5000 so would it be fair to add another $2000 to remove 2 layers of roof (28 squares) and perhaps $2000 labor. Need advice thanks.
Joined
·
604 Posts
I would expect him to fix the leaks, they are the roofing companys problem. I don't see the roofing company pulling it apart to add the missing sheathing though, they will just caulk the nails...which is just a bandaid and nothing that will last.
As for a new roof i doute they would pony up the costs for it. Are they paid in full ? if not you have leverage as to how the repairs are conducted. I do not do comp, but the way i see it is removing the roofing to allow for the replacement of the sheathing at the hips. This would be a lot of work to do and very well could be worth just tearing the whole thing off. Removing both layers to replace the sheathing and only putting one layerback is not going to work. They will have add additional sheathing to match the new roof height or add two layers of shingles. Seems like a pita to fix this properly.
As for a new roof i doute they would pony up the costs for it. Are they paid in full ? if not you have leverage as to how the repairs are conducted. I do not do comp, but the way i see it is removing the roofing to allow for the replacement of the sheathing at the hips. This would be a lot of work to do and very well could be worth just tearing the whole thing off. Removing both layers to replace the sheathing and only putting one layerback is not going to work. They will have add additional sheathing to match the new roof height or add two layers of shingles. Seems like a pita to fix this properly.
Andy it did look a little strange. It sure is a cleaner look just on the ridge, but the hip vents only came down the hip about 3 to 4 feet. Anyway, my instincts told me that just tiling over an opening like that was not professional. I used this roofer because he cam recommended and is a professional roofer in NYC in a union. He even works on skyscrapers. I figured he knew his stuff. The rest of the job looks great. It's just an issue with the hip and ridge. This is an expensive lesson learned. If I even get back half my money now I would be happy and have it done properly.
It is always easier to do it properly than to go back and fix it later. That being said, it looks like you have a gap of a little more than 1.5 inches running down the hip on both sides of the hip. I would sister two pieces of 2 x 6 against the hip rafter on both sides. The first to mimic the sheathing, the second to support the springboard. remove the hip caps down a foot past the cutout. (I am assuming that your roofer used the accessory hip and ridge shingles that came with your system. If not, Install ice dams over the hips then install hip and ridge shingles)
The cutout for your Main ridge on a hip roof should end about two feet from the end of the ridge. Its OK to run the vent to the end for appearance sake, but it should be shingled under it and sealed against wind blown rain. No one should ever run ventilation down the hips. Wind blown rain will get in.
The cutout for your Main ridge on a hip roof should end about two feet from the end of the ridge. Its OK to run the vent to the end for appearance sake, but it should be shingled under it and sealed against wind blown rain. No one should ever run ventilation down the hips. Wind blown rain will get in.
"Install ice dams over the hip"
To remove the caps is easy. To sister against the rafter is easy enough and makes sense to close up the gap. However, what is the procedure to install ice dams? Do I use a product like ice and water shield ? Thanks
To remove the caps is easy. To sister against the rafter is easy enough and makes sense to close up the gap. However, what is the procedure to install ice dams? Do I use a product like ice and water shield ? Thanks
Joined
·
2,784 Posts
Yeah -
"Ice and Water Shield"!
rossfingal
"Ice and Water Shield"!
rossfingal
Joined
·
981 Posts
From the picture it looks to me like the problem is the transition from the ridge cap off both hips running into the ridge line.Try replacing the last 2 ridge caps off both hips and the butt cap starting the cap across the ridge line.
Joined
·
981 Posts
Btw poster,,,,,You are not wanting to install an ice dam,,,,mother nature handles that for you.Ice and water shield,moisture guard is a damming prevention material.
Even though you have moisture guard does not mean an open area between the shingles exposed to the elements will prevent a leak.Improper fastening technique as well as placement is vital and renders moisture guard useless.
If you rely on moisture guard alone and not technique or common sense then these spots will show themselves often.
Even though you have moisture guard does not mean an open area between the shingles exposed to the elements will prevent a leak.Improper fastening technique as well as placement is vital and renders moisture guard useless.
If you rely on moisture guard alone and not technique or common sense then these spots will show themselves often.
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
