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If you didn’t see my other thread, I have a 72x300’ fabric tension building (200’ is the arena). I’m replacing my existing T8 6bulb fluorescent fixtures and the existing 10/3 MC cable (that my ex husband installed) due to storm damage.

The new fixtures will be LED UFOs 150watt (1.25 amp). They are set up in 2 rows (8 fixtures each). The fixture furthest from the service panel (220amp panel with plenty of room) is 272’...

I was toying with the idea of swapping out the 20 amp 120v breakers and putting 8 fixtures (10 amps total) inline on one circuit with 220v (w/15amp double pole breaker?) using 10/3copper wire because it would be a lot cheaper and easier to install but that leaves me wondering...

Using a voltage drop calculator on #10 over 273’ = 2.93% =
213.55v x 15 amps =3203.25 x 80% = 2,562 watts. The 8 light circuit is 1500 watts... is that enough to trip the breaker?

I was asking a industrial HVAC guy about it, and he said he wasn’t sure these lights could be run off 220v....???? The item description says 120-277v but they do have versions of the same fixture with higher wattage options...??? Your thoughts?

I’ve put in a 220v outlet for my welder successfully... but not sure on lights.






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A "Handy Husband"
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I would use #12 wire on 2 pole 15 amp breakers. You only need 12-2 if using cable because you don't need a neutral. The voltage drop will be about 3.5% and LEDs will work fine with that.

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#12 wire is fine with the 240 application. Those fixtures can use 120 or 240 without any wiring change on them. <disregard>You don't need a neutral unless you get the dimmable ones.</disregard> I finally found a schematic... no neutral needed for 240 as rjniles said. It's smart to use the 240 hookup to reduce the voltage drop.
 

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In reality, voltage drop won't be much of an issue with these fixtures since they have constant current drivers. Also if you use the 240 feed you can drop all the way down to 120 and it'll not drop the output.
 

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Voltage drop is figured using 120 or 240 volts
 
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