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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi everyone!

So i think my contractor didn't quite waterproof my new shower (enough) and my tile expert that was going to help me is "sick". I have to complete the whole thing by Monday, and now I'm confused about this process.

I have Durock backer board, and have started to tape and redguard the seams/joints/etc. Now i'm reading you can't use pre-mixed mortar/thin set over redguard?

I have purchased OnmiGrip Maximum Strength Adhesive. Will this work?

Do I need to caulk the joints if I'm using redguard?
Any special care around wall pipes (handles/showerhead)?
I also have 3 niches that I'm focusing the redguard on...

Any and ALL comments/concerns/thoughts would be SUPER APPRECIATED!
I dont have time to research more - and my results are just making me more worried! Thank you!
 

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I've never used redguard, and know very little about it. What I do know:

-you don't want a barrier behind the cbu and redguard over it.
-take that omni crap back and buy a bag(s) of versabond. it has very little to do with redguard, and more to do with how various products "dehydrate" and their ability to "rehydrate."
 

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You need to use a powdered 'modified' thinset--do not use any premixed mastic of any kind


Fill in all gaps with tile mesh and a thin coat of of freshly mixed thinset.

Then use your Red Guard--read the instructions---three coats ---pay special attention to the seat area--that is the weakest point in any shower.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You need to use a powdered 'modified' thinset--do not use any premixed mastic of any kind


Fill in all gaps with tile mesh and a thin coat of of freshly mixed thinset.

Then use your Red Guard--read the instructions---three coats ---pay special attention to the seat area--that is the weakest point in any shower.
Hi!

I wasn't able to see replies so here's the current status:

I mesh taped the seams and did 3 coats of redgaurd in the niches seams. I did a layer of probond 150 around the floor, except the curb. Need to do additional coats.

Friend came to see and said the walls are too uneven to lay my tile, so I got
MAPEI Indoor Floor Patch and Leveler - only place open on Easter Sunday. She told me to fill the uneven areas with this. Over the Redquard. Yes?

My tiles are 12x24, so I need the a good mortar to hold them up, over this planipatch. Versabond? Others?


Thanks so much!
 

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Friend came to see and said the walls are too uneven to lay my tile, so I got MAPEI Indoor Floor Patch and Leveler
At the risk of stating the obvious, you're trying to fix a wall with a floor product. Normally the floor levelers are very "soupy" and they work by gravity, so obviously this won't work on your walls.

On the other hand, it's kind of hard to imagine that your walls (properly covered in cement backerboard) is too uneven to lay tile. If the tile is small, it won't matter, and if the tile is big, it can normally be made up with thinset during installation. Hard to imagine looking at your pictures that your walls are more out of whack than that.
 

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Redguard the curb ---
Any good 'modified ' thinset will work for you---

Sorry, I do not know what 'Pro Bond' is---

Check your walls for flatness---a long straight edge like a level will tell you if you have dips or humps---I usually leave out the bottom tile and screw a wood ledger board to the wall in its place to support the wall tiles until the tiles are set.

With 12x24 tiles, I might consider using a leveling clip --'Lash by QEP' is an inexpensive system---those will help you avoid lippage on a slightly out of flat wall.
 

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I just invested in the raimondi leveling system. Very slick, and it reduced the number of tiles I had to pull up, re do the thin set and then stick the tile down again. I never use the QEP system, and I know it is similar, I just went with what had a better rep on the interwebz. I know the pros can whip it out like whoa, but I'm not a pro and $150 investment has made me much faster with a much better end product. Pic below is a floor I just did. Not perfect, but I laid all the tiles in about 3 hours once everything was cut. No way I would do half that before with all the picking up of tiles and re doing....

Also, if you have natural stone tiles, consider only doing a couple rows at a time as the weight can start to stack up on the wall.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Friend came to see and said the walls are too uneven to lay my tile, so I got MAPEI Indoor Floor Patch and Leveler
At the risk of stating the obvious, you're trying to fix a wall with a floor product. Normally the floor levelers are very "soupy" and they work by gravity, so obviously this won't work on your walls.

On the other hand, it's kind of hard to imagine that your walls (properly covered in cement backerboard) is too uneven to lay tile. If the tile is small, it won't matter, and if the tile is big, it can normally be made up with thinset during installation. Hard to imagine looking at your pictures that your walls are more out of whack than that.
Please state the obvious.
What thin set would you recommend to patch the walls and tile 12x24 porcelain tiles?
I'll try to post pics tonight of how out of whack the walls are.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Redguard the curb.
Any good 'modified ' thinset will work

---I usually leave out the bottom tile and screw a wood ledger board to the wall .
Redguard the curb, even though it has a plastic membrane below? (Clarifying because other answer said no to both)

Recommend a "good" modified thinset

If you screw in a board to level. With, then redguard/thin set those holes before tiling that one?

Also, this is supposed to be done by Thursday. It's Monday night here. Do I have a fighting chance?
 

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Please state the obvious.
What thin set would you recommend to patch the walls and tile 12x24 porcelain tiles?
I'll try to post pics tonight of how out of whack the walls are.
Well I don't even know that the walls need to be "patched". What exactly is the problem? With 12x24 tiles you're going to be using something like a 1/4x3/8 trowel or even as big as a 1/2" trowel. That's going to give you 1/4" of thinset on average, and you can spot trowel or back butter even more thinset in spots if needed. What sort of crazy problems are you trying to cover up that this won't fix? Any standard thinset will work, it doesn't need to be anything special.
 

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What sort of crazy problems are you trying to cover up that this won't fix?
I really hope my friend just over-reacted to my contractors "sloppy work". I have no idea. First project and I thought "it can't be that hard". Famous last words.
I tried to get some decent pictures of the...bumps. I hope it's something I can just fix as I go.
 

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I might consider using a leveling clip --'Lash by QEP' is an inexpensive system---those will help you avoid lippage on a slightly out of flat wall.
Oh my gosh. Thank you!
This might be perfect! I didn't even know they made these, and I'm guessing my friend didn't either, cause it might solve my problem!
Do you know the maximum...lippage(?) this would work for?
 

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What sort of crazy problems are you trying to cover up that this won't fix?
I really hope my friend just over-reacted to my contractors "sloppy work". I have no idea. First project and I thought "it can't be that hard". Famous last words.
I tried to get some decent pictures of the...bumps. I hope it's something I can just fix as I go.
Edited to add - I didn't realize they made those clips. From these photos, should that do the trick? Thanks so much!
 

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They are a great help with the larger tiles---some extra thinset may be needed behind a few tiles---I use them on walls---

You still want as flat a wall as you can get before you start setting.
 

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It was sloppy work, however pic 1 simply looks like a tapered joint, pic 2 looks like a bump that isn't too bad, pic 3 is a small ridge that should be OK, pic 4 looks pretty small, and I'm not sure what pic 5 is but I admit that one looks pretty bad. All of that seems beatable with proper thinset application IMO. The last one might need some additional care, I'm not sure. If you're worried about them you can apply some thinset ahead of time to flatten them out. Personally I would probably only do that for the last one.
 
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