[Marky82]

Hi all,

The house next door is being sold and the children gave me some of their Dad's old tools - one being a vintage Kellogg American air compressor. I don't know much about air compressors and even less about vintage ones. I'm not sure what year is was made or even what model (there are two tags with model numbers, don't know which was used to identify the compressor). Below are pics of the compressor and close-up of the major parts.

The daughter said it was running before her father passed away in 2007 but I haven't been able to start it because there is no electrical cable, it was hard-wired to a switch under his work bench. The power cable went from the switch to a box on the top left that was made by the Square D Company (see 6th image below). The motor is made by Packard. The model is S7828, 1/2 hp continuous duty, 115/230 volts, 8.2/4.4 amps, 1725 rpm. Can I use 14/2 wire to create a plug for a 115 outlet? It looks like I have the option to run 115 or 230 volts.

Here are some pics. I would appreciate any info! I would like to get this working again. It looks to be in good shape!

Front

Top

Back

Model/Serial number on the tank

Information on Packard electrical engine

Information on the Square D electrical panel (the electrical was run into this unit)

Model/serial number on pump engine

Thanks!
Mark

 

[Phases]

Super cool. Pop that switch box open and take a look!

See what it was wired for, if 230 move it to 115 make the plug and give her a shot!

(p.s. don't kill yourself)

Edit: I'm just some guy! Not an electrician or anything. Maybe I shouldn't have responded

 

[Marky82]

Super cool. Pop that switch box open and take a look!

See what it was wired for, if 230 move it to 115 make the plug and give her a shot!

(p.s. don't kill yourself)

Edit: I'm just some guy! Not an electrician or anything. Maybe I shouldn't have responded

I'll take a picture of it opened up tonight but I believe it's wired for 115 volts. With the top off there are 4 connections - two line and two load. It already has a set of black and white wires attached to one set of line/load terminals that run to the motor with 14 gauge wire.

 

[Phases]

yeah there should be the wires running to the motor you'd just need to deal with the line connections to outlet.

 

[Marky82]

Does anyone know if it's ok to replace the oil in the pump with Kobalt Air Compressor oil from Lowes (link to oil)? I bought some yesterday. The oil has probably turned to sludge. I wanted to replace before attempting to start the compressor.

 

[DexterII]

I don't know how that oil compares in this regard, but I would use a straight 20 or 30 weight non-detergent oil. Just a quick look, the Kobalt might be synthetic, and I'm not smart enough to know what all of the characteristics of synthetic oil are, but think that I would try to avoid that on something this old. As far as the pump, those older Kellogg's were good ones. The name is still out there, but they're imported today. I would probably be a little leery of the tank, or at least to pay particular attention to any pin holes in the bottom of it. Maybe even tap lightly on it to see if it still has a bit of a ring, or maybe more of a thud that could indicate rust from not being drained regularly.

 

[Marky82]

I changed the oil, made a temporary electrical cable and the compressor worked! I connected the electrical cable to the two open "line" connections on the pressure regulator switch.

The compressor pumped up to 160psi then stopped. I open the pressure relief valve to let some air out and it kicked back on at about 130psi. I unplugged the tank and did yard work for a few hours, when I checked back it was still at 160psi. This morning I took a look at it had lost air, it was at about 120psi. Is this normal? I figured some loss could be attributed to the colder overnight temperatures. This is my first compressor so I'm not sure if the tank has a slow leak or if a little air loss is normal.

Also, how can I figure out the CFM and what PSI it's running at? I would like to buy some air tools like an air ratchet and ideally an impact wrench. The tools wouldn't be used heavily... more as a hobbiest when I work on my car.

Video of the compressor running

Pressure switch without cover

 

[Bondo]

The compressor pumped up to 160psi then stopped. I open the pressure relief valve to let some air out and it kicked back on at about 130psi.

Ayuh,.... Back off the nut on top of the pressure switch, That's Too high,...

It should pump up to 120psi, 'n shut off, 'n come back on a 90/ 100 psi,...

That's a rather low volume compressor,...

It'll run an impact gun, but in bursts, not continuously,...

 

[ChuckF.]

You can mix up some dishwashing liquid soap and water and check all the connections, could be a slow leak. Don't forget to free up the bottom tank drain and use it regularly.

 

[DexterII]

Bondo is right about the pressure. That's a single stage unit, efficient for up to about 120 psi. I can see that the pressure switch is stamped otherwise, and it is very likely the original one, but is simply a generic component used in the assembly of the unit, and the stamped pressure is probably just its' median range. As far as cfm, figure about 4 cfm per horsepower, less a little bit here and there, and I would imagine that pump with a 1/2 horse motor is rated around 1.8.

 

[Windows on Wash]

Nice find. They don't build them like this anymore.

 

[Marky82]

Thanks for the info everyone! I'd reduce the pressure to 120psi, mix up dishwashing soap to check for leaks and free up the bottom tank drain.

The first air tool I'd like to purchase is an air ratchet. It will mostly be used for occasional work on my car. This Dewalt air ratchet says its average air consumption at load is 2.1 CFM which is a little more than my compressor probably makes. I'll be using it in short intervals and if I understand correctly my compressor should power the tool but I may have an issue if I run it too long (I'll have to wait for the pump to refill the tank). Is this correct? If so, that's fine with me. At least it's a cheap introduction to compressors. Before they gave me this I was going to buy a Makita MAC5200 (3hp, 5.2 gallon tank, 6.5cfm at 90psi) but now I'm thinking that would be too small. At least this will give me a better idea as to what size I'll need without wasting money on a compressor that's too small.

 

[Canarywood1]

If you want to run air tools, get a 60 gallon tank as they use a LOT of air.

 

[iamrfixit]

You will want to check and make sure you have a working pressure relief valve on that tank. At 160 psi it should have popped off. They are often removed or disabled when the pressure is turned up beyond the factory specification. People often don't understand the consequences that can come from it.

Most single stage compressors I have had, the relief is set for around 150. In the event your pressure switch were to ever fail, the relief is extremely important. Even your little compressor, without intervention by stopping the compressor or the relief popping, can and will build up enough pressure to rupture. That can be a very dangerous, even fatal situation. A guy who lives in my town was nearly killed a few years ago when his compressor blew up, and his house was also severely damaged. The compressor was jury rigged with no psi switch and no relief, he left it running, became distracted and forgot about it.

Another potential issue, if you find pinhole leaks in the bottom of the tank or drain rusty water out when the tank is drained, then this tank is probably nearing retirement. Tanks rust from the inside and there is no way to know how bad the tank is. Testing is possible but likely more expensive than the thing is worth. Rusty water or pinholes are a sure sign of possible issues. Never repair pinholes, just like rust appears on a car if you have one spot showing you have hundreds lurking just beneath the surface. In this case saving a little money is just not worth it.

Your compressor will run limited air tools in small doses. Being single stage and also having a single cylinder does not lend itself to a very positive experience. A larger tank is of little help, it gives a little extra reserve but quickly depletes. What you really need for air tools is more CFM output. If you really want to use air tools heavily don't settle for anything less than a 2 stage.

Any high speed tools like sanders or grinders are out of the question for this little feller. Other tools may work but performance will really suffer from lack of air. This compressor will be perfect for airing up a tire, blowing the dust off of you or your project and running a pneumatic nailer or stapler.

 

[Stapler]

^That post pretty much sums up my thoughts more or less, but I'd like to expand. Now this is your property, so take my opinion with a grain of salt. Mind you, I am not sure of the technical side of compressors, but considering the age I'd consider selling those compressors. Believe me, older power items such as these were often well built, but often lack the capacity to work well, if at all in some cases with modern power tools.

Chances are, there is a collector that is willing to pay some money for these compressors and on eBay, Craig's List etc. are just some sources to sell this. Hopefully none of these compressors have pinholes and a functional pressure relief valve, as that might be a point of contention with some people. At least on a practicality scale.

 

[hotrod351]

says right on it, on 120 off 150. the older compressors were built much better than the new ones. i had a old compressor that was kickoff at 145, figure how old it is and its been run that way since new, still running, right ? well then i guess it was made for that. manufactures recommendations are always the best to go by.