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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

I hired a plumber to do all the rough work but I want to do the finish work myself as I did all the rest of the new kitchen work myself. I want to know specifically what fittings etc to use to connect the rough to the finish. I have a GD and DW as well. What connects the drain stub to the GD outlet (I know some sort of p trap). Also some shut offs from the pex to each faucet connection, and a tee below the hot shutoff connecting another shutoff to the DW inlet.

I just don't what the proper things to buy/ terminology. I will go with non "shark bite" fittings and buy the crimp tool as I will be doing the bathroom over later on.
 

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No offense, but perhaps you should just bring the plumber back to finish up. Pex ring crimping is not something to be taken lightly. A flooded kitchen would cost a lot more than a couple more hours by the plumber.

B
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
No offense, but perhaps you should just bring the plumber back to finish up. Pex ring crimping is not something to be taken lightly. A flooded kitchen would cost a lot more than a couple more hours by the plumber.

B
I don't see how properly following directions and having a fantastic working knowledge of mechanical bonding means would mean pex crimping is hard to do correctly.

And with the sighs and bing searches; thanks but I come here specifically for some helping answers. I know how to and have googled, I didn't find exactly the answer I was looking for so that's why I asked the forum. If you think my questions are simple or stupid, please move on and don't give any input. Someone nice and knowledge full will come along. I am not trying to be mean but I see it happens to others and I never understand why.

And joe, even after that rant thanks; a "marvel connector" is what I was talking about thanks.
 

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What the heck is a "marvel connector"? Never heard of such a thing in 25 years
of plumbing! Maybe someone's pulling your leg?

To the OP: you are strongly advised to drop by one of the big home improvement stores and wander around the plumbing department to see what's available, and what things are called. How can you even ask questions if you
don't know the terminology? Nuthin' worse than having to try and GUESS
what someone else is talking about!
 

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first thing--install that garbage disposer---leave it a bit loose so it can be turned to position the drain--

Next---install the P-trap----move the machine and trap so that it is pointing at the drain--from this you will be able to figure out if you need an extension or add PVC to the wall stub--or a 228 or 45* to the wall pipe
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
What the heck is a "marvel connector"? Never heard of such a thing in 25 years
of plumbing! Maybe someone's pulling your leg?

To the OP: you are strongly advised to drop by one of the big home improvement stores and wander around the plumbing department to see what's available, and what things are called. How can you even ask questions if you
don't know the terminology? Nuthin' worse than having to try and GUESS
what someone else is talking about!

What's this called? That's what I was referring to, I heard that name in a video. I have my diagram of what I need, hopefully I can find it all easily. Some websites like pex info say the crimp fittings are compatible with all a,b and c pex tubing so I think I'm good with that, while I have read that the expansion fittings are best, I can't get that stuff locally.
 

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I have to ask what type of faucet you are using. If you are installing one of those ones where the sprayer head pulls out then make sure the routing of the flexible supply line does not get tangled up in your plumbing. Same for the dw and gd cord. Aslo, under the sink drains are not limited too compression fittings, you can use solvent weld fittings with a thread on trap. I like to stub up in pex and then transition to copper. I still feel like some sort of hack using pex, although I have learned to do real nice work with the pex. If you have a stainless steel sink use plumbers puddy in the sink strainers. Do not forget to knock the plug out of the gd for the dishwasher. One other thing, you can use a fernco to connect that marvel fitting thing to the drain, that way you do not need to primer and glue then work in that terrible smell. Good luck
 

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Partial list of what you will need:
plumbers putty
teflon pipe dope
1.5" tailpiece extension
1.5" p trap
1.5" DWV coupling annd pipe (maybe)
1.5" female trap adapter
glue and primer
water supply stops for H&C and DW
pex crimp rings or cinch rings- either are good
30" 1/2 x 3/8 flex supply lines for faucet
Mount the faucet and disposal on the sink before mounting the sink in the hole.
Secure sink to counter top and hook up whats left in the cabinet.
Test for leaks and you're done :drink:
 
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What the heck is a "marvel connector"? Never heard of such a thing in 25 years
of plumbing! Maybe someone's pulling your leg?

If you go to the hardware store and buy one of the thin wall pvc tubular trap adapters, they are labelled on the packaging as a "marvel adapter"

If you buy a trap there you'll have to find the adapter too, because their traps don't come with 'em.

:laughing:
 

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has anybody noticed how low drain is roughed in..call the plumber back and ask what is rough in height for kitchen sinks....gee wiz....what poor work habits some have....sorry but the low drain make it more difficult to hook up for a diy...ben sr
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Well I got it all done with no leaks. I crimped and checked each fitting with the g/ng gauge. The only thing that sucked was the cold water was right below the drain so its moved off to the side of the drain pipe. Is that bad? Also for that threaded union on the ptrap, are you suppose to use plumbers putty on it? Or make sure it's seat Ed correctly? Also I did the hole for the drain. We had to lift and slide the cabinet into position since the drain comes out at 45 degrees, hence the large hole. The "tiny holes" are actually screws to hold a piece of ply behind the cabinet so the old work box could be more sturdy. Not my happiest execution but I have screw caps that match the cabinets so I will use those.


 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
What do you mean reversed? The mixing valve flex lines are color coded and hooked up to the correct hot and cold lines. Good point on the metal finish rings. I checked and they are rounded on the inner lip. I would need to cut them off now.
 
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