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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need ideas to improve the staircase so that it occupies less space, it should be located in the area marked in red (view the attachment) and shouldnt be steep. This is for a G+2 floors house, 2nd floor will be same as 1st floor. Distance between ground and ceiling is 10 feet. Straight staircase running between floors, L shaped, double landing etc feel free to share your input. minimum width of stairs needed is 3.75 feet.
 

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retired framer
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Are you drawing this yourself, you have some strange measurements that would require all custom? Stairs are measured floor to floor so you have to add the joists and the subloor thickness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Nealtw, yes i'm doing it myself and it'll be custom. Stairs will be made of concrete/cement, I just require help with a better staircase design.
 

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retired framer
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Nealtw, yes i'm doing it myself and it'll be custom. Stairs will be made of concrete/cement, I just require help with a better staircase design.
doors and windows are made in multiples of 2" so 2'6 or 4' 4 or 4'8 would be better.

I assumed the stairs floor to floor would be 130" about, that is 17 risers,
usually that would be a a flat landing. 8 risers up to the landing and 9 from the landing up. So the length of the wall between upper and lower would be 80".
Code for stairs and landings are 36" wide and if you are doing concrete you don't need the center wall. Maybe you are just filling the 8 ft to match the bathroom.
 

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Hammered Thumb
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If you have 10' ceilings, then maybe 6" for flat plate construction, that's 126" total rise. So a riser @7.5" gives you 17R/16T. Your drawing shows 20R. So if these assumptions are correct, your stair could look more like this:

awshax.jpg

Risers a bit under 7.5" and treads @10". Check my math.

Don't see any other opportunities to lay out the stair other than a U that doesn't affect the entry door, bathroom, double door, or keeping consistent layouts between floors.
 

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Be careful with that winding staircase. Code is very strict. The was a thread a while back somebody did a remodel with winding steps. It was finished and it was never going to pass inspection. Pretty sure your drawing is not to code. At the very least, where your treads taper down to zero, on the inside, would cause it to be out of code compliance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yes, but i only require help with the staircase design that would occupy less space and isnt steep, if needed I can shift the drawing room door opening to the porch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If you have 10' ceilings, then maybe 6" for flat plate construction, that's 126" total rise. So a riser @7.5" gives you 17R/16T. Your drawing shows 20R. So if these assumptions are correct, your stair could look more like this:

View attachment 587849

Risers a bit under 7.5" and treads @10". Check my math.

Don't see any other opportunities to lay out the stair other than a U that doesn't affect the entry door, bathroom, double door, or keeping consistent layouts between floors.
I can move the drawing room door next to the window this will reduce the limitations, let me know your thoughts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Be careful with that winding staircase. Code is very strict. The was a thread a while back somebody did a remodel with winding steps. It was finished and it was never going to pass inspection. Pretty sure your drawing is not to code. At the very least, where your treads taper down to zero, on the inside, would cause it to be out of code compliance.
I'll take care of the regulations, as I understand winding staircase wouldnt be of much help in this case. By the way this is an asian design.
 

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Hammered Thumb
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I can move the drawing room door next to the window this will reduce the limitations, let me know your thoughts.
I assumed the Drawing Room door is the main entry, and you still need a landing so removing it from the staircase does not help.

I was guessing you are trying to reduce the stair size to gain some storage on each floor for like bicycles and stuff. If you reworked the Drawing Room and moved the Bath you might get some space. The Bath for guests only needs to be half that size anyway. But I don't know your space requirements and preferences in living.

Just some advice - typically in a 2 or 3 story building, the ground level unit is smaller by necessity. Making room for other unit's motorcycle parking, an electrical/meter room, garbage room, etc. Also, the Verandas above the carport are quite large and I imagine with tiny expensive real estate one would want to capture at least half of that space.
 
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