[DEL82]

Good morning. I am installing a new freezer in my garage, along with a new circuit dedicated to it. I'm seeking some advice on understanding GFCI (breaker amperage, breaker vs. receptacle, hospital grade vs. regular, etc.).

Reference info for freezer:
Whirlpool 15.8 cu. ft. upright freezer
Model - EV160NZTQ
Estimated yearly electricity use - 582 kWh

Recommended grounding method (from user manual)​

A 115 Volt, 60 Hz., AC only, 15- or 20-amp fused, grounded​

electrical supply is required. It is recommended that a separate​

circuit serving only your freezer be provided. Use an outlet that​

cannot be turned off by a switch. Do not use an extension cord.

My primary concern is the gfci tripping. It's a new freezer, so I'm fairly confident it will run efficiently, but I would still like to take any steps I can to reduce the chances of the gfci tripping (if possible).

Here are my questions.

• Manual recommends 15- or 20-amp circuit. I was planning to install a 20-amp. Would a higher amperage breaker reduce the chances of tripping without causing any problems?
• Is there any benefit to installing a gfci breaker/standard receptacle versus a standard breaker with gfci receptacle?
• I recently replaced my defective garage gfci receptacle (has standard receptacles downstream) with a new hospital grade gfci. If I do go the receptacle route for the freezer, is there any negatives to using a hospital grade again?

Thank you very much for your time!

Del

 

[spaceman spif]

From my understanding, a hospital grade gfci basically works the same as a standard one, but it's designed to hold the plug in more securely since you don't want to have the plug wiggle loose on something like a ventilator or heart monitor. So no need to buy a hospital grade one.

Two benefits of putting in a gfci receptacle with a standard breaker are 1 - easier to install or replace and 2 - easier to reset when it trips (you don't have to make a trip to the breaker box).

 

[spaceman spif]

But it sounds like freezers or fridges in your garage might not be required to have a gfci since they tend to trip them.

http://ask-the-electrician.com/outlet-wiring-for-garage-freezers-and-refrigerators/

I'll leave that up to the NEC experts on here.

 

[jbfan]

Price is the difference in choosing a breaker or receptacle.

15 or 20 amp makes no difference.
I can't tell you about the hospital grade gfci, never looked at one. It's not like you will be plugging and unplugging the freezer often.
I would install a gfci receptacle some where accessible and then use a standard receptacle behind the freezer.

Spif, I have no idea how old that page is, but the exemption has been removed from the code for many years,

 

[DEL82]

I would install a gfci receptacle some where accessible and then use a standard receptacle behind the freezer.

Thanks for the reply! Do you recommend this in case the gfci trips, and the user wouldn't have to move the freezer to access the reset button? Or is there maybe a benefit to having the freezer plugged into a standard receptacle that is downstream from the gfci, rather than the directly to the gfci?

Thanks again!

 

[Oso954]

You should be testing the GFCI more often than you should be resetting it.

How many people do you think would be moving a freezer to perform a periodic test. It's hard enough to get them to do it with the thing in plain site.

 

[Jim Port]

But it sounds like freezers or fridges in your garage might not be required to have a gfci since they tend to trip them.

http://ask-the-electrician.com/outlet-wiring-for-garage-freezers-and-refrigerators/

I'll leave that up to the NEC experts on here.

A properly operating appliance should not be tripping a gfi. If it trips the appliance should be repaired or replaced. The gfi protection is required.

 

[spaceman spif]

Apparently this was once a "hot" thread.

http://www.diychatroom.com/f47/freezer-tripping-gfci-11119/


(I made a pun!)

One of the problems I can see, especially with older models of fridges and freezers, is when the compressor motor shuts off there is some stored energy in the windings of the motor. That stored energy can be released onto the neutral line which would cause a GFI receptacle to trip as it would sense an imbalance between the hot and neutral. It's not a fault with the design, it's just what motors do when they are shut off. A similar thing can occur when it first turns on, as the power is briefly magnetically transferred to the windings before it continues out the neutral.

Newer fridges probably have capacitors, snubbers, and MOV's to help absorb that surge or kickback in order to prevent nuisance GFI tripping.

 

[Jim Port]

The gfi should be accessible without needing to move anything.

 

[Arrow3030]

I'd do a 15A GFCI breaker. It's the most likely way the GFCI will remain readily accessible. There's no reason for a 20 amp circuit.

 

[RegeSullivan]

I am pretty sure (at least in my town) you do not need GFCI for a dedicated refrigerator circuit. I see no benefit to using a GFCI in this case. Since you are running a new circuit anyway 20 amp makes more sense as the cost difference will be little and you may need a 20 amp in the future however it will have no benefit for an appliance rated to run on a 15 amps circuit. I can not see any benefit to using a hospital grade outlet especially on an outlet dedicated to something that will not likely have the plug removed and inserted more than a few times during it's lifetime.

 

[Oso954]

I am pretty sure (at least in my town) you do not need GFCI for a dedicated refrigerator circuit. I see no benefit to using a GFCI in this case.

The code has changed over the years. All garage 120V receptacles must be GFCI protected. There is no exception for a refrigerator in the garage.

If your town has a different amendment or is a few code cycles behind, that's fine. Most of us stick to NEC 2014 unless the Op tells us what they are on.

 

[Jim Port]

I am pretty sure (at least in my town) you do not need GFCI for a dedicated refrigerator circuit. I see no benefit to using a GFCI in this case..

Unless it prevents the shock or electrocution of a family member.

 

[Arrow3030]

I rarely run a 20 amp for an individual appliance circuit in residential because the only time I ever see a 5-20p is for comercial appliances. Other than cost and abiding to a conservative spirit, there is absolutely nothing wrong with running a 20A.
Every time a gfci trips someone is potentially saved from shock or worse. The solenoid kick back someone mentioned earlier is a problem for older appliances but anything new has passed a higher safety/performance test AFAIK and should not be an issue with GFCI protection.

 

[spaceman spif]

Unless it prevents the shock or electrocution of a family member.

Honestly not trying to be snarky or argumentative, but I wonder - wouldn't that argument hold true then for any circuit in a house? Sure the likelihood is higher around water, but the potential for accidentally coming in contact with an exposed wire could happen anywhere. So why not GFI everything?

 

[Arrow3030]

Eventually everything will be required to be GFCI protected in a home. It doesn't take that many deaths for it to happen.

 

[Jim Port]

Honestly not trying to be snarky or argumentative, but I wonder - wouldn't that argument hold true then for any circuit in a house? Sure the likelihood is higher around water, but the potential for accidentally coming in contact with an exposed wire could happen anywhere. So why not GFI everything?

Probably true. The issue is the code now requires gfi protection in the garage while others areas still do not need it.

 

[danpik]

Honestly not trying to be snarky or argumentative, but I wonder - wouldn't that argument hold true then for any circuit in a house? Sure the likelihood is higher around water, but the potential for accidentally coming in contact with an exposed wire could happen anywhere. So why not GFI everything?

People also don't realize how electrically conductive concrete is especially when wet.

 

[Oso954]

People also don't realize how electrically conductive concrete is especially when wet.

+1

It is also surprising how much moisture a concrete slab on grade (or otherwise in direct earth contact) can contain and still appear dry on the surface.