yep:yes: also at least a 10 inch drywall knife is a must .your right. no top coat will hide thatIt's hard to tell but it looks like it needs sanding and more mud to me.I would sand it as smooth as I could get it and skim it out wider.The wider you skim it the less gradual the patch will be therefore less noticable.
It started out as a straight crack from wall to wall. Muded and taped it and it was spread out about 3' wide...It's hard to tell but it looks like it needs sanding and more mud to me.I would sand it as smooth as I could get it and skim it out wider.The wider you skim it the less gradual the patch will be therefore less noticable.
Ok thank you for saving me the time and material in another coat.yep:yes: also at least a 10 inch drywall knife is a must .your right. no top coat will hide that
It's a smooth ceiling, the only minimal texture is from the roller pad. So wet sanding will accelerate taking out the edge? I was thinking of even trying a palm sander, especially considering it sounds like I'll need to mud again..That looks like some heavy texture on that ceiling. If it is a texture then the game will have to change. For now a 10" blade as ltd suggested and you may even need to wet sand the edges with a sponge if the sandpaper is not getting into the texture to smooth it out.
Sand and then fan out more mud?Personally I think wet sanding doesn't get as smooth and flat as using a hand sander that has a flat platform. The light while sanding is essential.
I'd use a 12" blade, but a 10 is sure better than a 3.
You need to fan it out so it leaves no hump. or indentation.
This painting stuff is tricky, eh? lol
Ok that sounds better, I was going to use a palm sander otherwise to break through the paint and primer layers.If what you have done has been painted, its really hard to sand then. So I think all of us are saying it is fanning out the joint compound better and sanding that.
After first coat I did some sanding... Applied 2nd coat only to area concern rather than entire repair, like first coat. Hopefully after sanding it will have improved. Ive been hearing about level 5 finishes, and using the water & mud skim coat applied with a roller... Everything Ive seen on this is on new drywall vs. drywall repairs. Anyone have experience with this finishing method?
You don't need a level 5 finish. What you need is to get a level 4 finish not perfect but near perfect. I sometimes apply level 4 with a roller, but that's a different matter. You need to thin the compound a bit to do this, but that doesn't make it a level 5 finish. It's just the 3rd compound layer.Ive been hearing about level 5 finishes, and using the water & mud skim coat applied with a roller... Everything Ive seen on this is on new drywall vs. drywall repairs. Anyone have experience with this finishing method?
This is basically true but it can be overdone. Taping knives are flexible and if you press hard you're creating a curved surface and defeating the purpose. You need to fill gaps between the flat ceiling and the hump caused by the joint repair, so you want the knife to keep as flat an edge as possible while still pressing the compound flat (but not beyond flat).Pull the knife tight against the ceiling.The more excess you can wipe off wet the less you have to sand off dry.
I was thinking applying the thinned out mud with a roller and then scraping it away would be better than sanding and priming. I guess gravity would be the issue? I would like the repairs to be hidden...You will never end up with a level 5 finish, no matter what method you use and using a roller to apply mud certainly will not work for you. There is no earthly reson for a level 5 finish on a ceiling. You are way over thinking this.
I thought a level 5 is achieved with water and all purpose mud, with cake batter consistency, applied by roller, scraped off and then sanded. You have me confused.You don't need a level 5 finish. What you need is to get a level 4 finish not perfect but near perfect. I sometimes apply level 4 with a roller, but that's a different matter. You need to thin the compound a bit to do this, but that doesn't make it a level 5 finish. It's just the 3rd compound layer.
You probably should use a 12" taping knife, but if you have a 10" now that should work.
Just a correction Jeff on a knife 8" or larger there should already be a curve in it if you look down the blade. That is why I use a flat trowel. If you are not careful whice way the curve is the corners can leave tracks. (It's in Myron's book). And junky no matter you will still need to sand some and prime.This is basically true but it can be overdone. Taping knives are flexible and if you press hard you're creating a curved surface and defeating the purpose. You need to fill gaps between the flat ceiling and the hump caused by the joint repair, so you want the knife to keep as flat an edge as possible while still pressing the compound flat (but not beyond flat).
It is. You don't need that.I thought a level 5 is achieved with water and all purpose mud, with cake batter consistency, applied by roller, scraped off and then sanded. You have me confused.
Some knives are flat and some have a slightly curved blade. Some trowels are flat and some have a slightly curved blade. I assume your knife is curved and your trowel is flat, but they're not all like that.Just a correction Jeff on a knife 8" or larger there should already be a curve in it if you look down the blade. That is why I use a flat trowel.