I need some help painting primed pine crown. I'm using Sherwin Williams pro classic with a 2.5" angled Purdy brush. The problem is when I start painting, the paint starts getting tacky and I can't keep a wet edge. I painted about 30 feet today and it left brush strokes. How can I avoid this on the rest and how can I fix what I have already painted?
Help painting crown molding.
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I've never once seen where a foam roller on crown would be a good idea.
Unless you bought the wrong brush, painting to slow, a dash of Floetrol may help.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Flood-Floetrol-1-qt-Clear-Latex-Paint-Additive-FLD6-04/100198078
Unless you bought the wrong brush, painting to slow, a dash of Floetrol may help.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Flood-Floetrol-1-qt-Clear-Latex-Paint-Additive-FLD6-04/100198078
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ProClassic is a bear to work with. It takes a lot of practice. You have to put it on quick, but you can't use too much paint because it will sag like crazy too. It does sand pretty well, so you can go back and fix mistakes. Switching to a different kind of paint would help.
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You have to move fast with ProClassic. Dip and brush it on, repeat. Don't mess around with laying it off too much. You have about 30 seconds between each dip to get it on there, brush it out, and repeat. Unfortunately a mini-roller is not much help with the curves on crown moulding.
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Agree with Schu mini roller is wrong for crown and foam is wrong for everything. This iswhere a pic would be a big help, How decorative is the crown? Knowing this can help us to advise on the paint and the application.
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I guess another question we should have asked is if you are painting it IN PLACE or are you painting it first before installing it? Ideally, it's nice to paint it on something like sawhorses at least for the first coat. With it laying mostly flat, the paint will level out better and you won't get so many brush marks. Then install it, fill the nail holes, and apply that second coat.
If it's already nailed up, that is likely part of the problem. You just can't paint fast enough since you have to be careful not to get any trim paint on the walls or ceiling. You can add a bit of water to your paint to extend the drying time or even a little bit of extender like Floetrol.
If it's already nailed up, that is likely part of the problem. You just can't paint fast enough since you have to be careful not to get any trim paint on the walls or ceiling. You can add a bit of water to your paint to extend the drying time or even a little bit of extender like Floetrol.
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And on that design I would probably use a brush. With the Pro Classic the biggest problem is from overworking it. Put it on then leave it alone don't try to remove all the brush marks the levelers in the paint will do that. And don't put it on too heavy as stated it will sag. The Flotrol will give you a little more work time.
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you don't
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Be careful how much Floral you add as this can effect the levelers in the paint so the brush marks don't level out. Too much can also lead to runs and sags.
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Well, you can actually. I like to do it sometimes just to do something different. Works especially well with BM Advance because of the increased open time.
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I use Dutch Boy Dura Clean. Goes on south, finishes nice and leaves little to no brush strokes.
I'd also recommend using a Graco TrueCoat cordless sprayer. So fast and easy.
I'd also recommend using a Graco TrueCoat cordless sprayer. So fast and easy.
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And next time, two coats of paint before it's hung.
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If you consider working, fun, then I guess you got me.:001_unsure:Yeah maybe, but it wouldn't be as much fun
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