[km782]

I am planning on painting the interior walls and ceilings in most of the rooms in my house over the next year or two. I've been researching paint sprayers but I can't figure out what to get. I'd like to spend around $200 but will go as high as $300. The paint I have is the Sherwin-Williams Emerald and it says to spray at 2000 psi with a 0.017 tip. Here is what I have been considering:

Graco TrueCoat Plus II
Graco Project Painter Plus
Wagner Flexio 590
Wagner ProCoat

I like the idea of the systems that pull right from the paint bucket so I don't have to stop and refill (Graco Project Painter and Wagner ProCoat). However, I worry that the hoses on these will mean more wasted paint that I will lose when I go to clean the unit. If that is significant it might be worth it to stick with the handhelds. The Project Painter Plus also only supports the 0.015 tip. Is this a problem or could I spray at a higher pressure to compensate?

I'd like to hear people's opinions and experiences with these. Also, if anyone has any suggestions for units other than these I'd like to hear them as well.

Thanks in advance

 

[ric knows paint]

I am planning on painting the interior walls and ceilings in most of the rooms in my house over the next year or two. I've been researching paint sprayers but I can't figure out what to get. I'd like to spend around $200 but will go as high as $300. The paint I have is the Sherwin-Williams Emerald and it says to spray at 2000 psi with a 0.017 tip. Here is what I have been considering:

Graco TrueCoat Plus II
Graco Project Painter Plus
Wagner Flexio 590
Wagner ProCoat

I like the idea of the systems that pull right from the paint bucket so I don't have to stop and refill (Graco Project Painter and Wagner ProCoat). However, I worry that the hoses on these will mean more wasted paint that I will lose when I go to clean the unit. If that is significant it might be worth it to stick with the handhelds. The Project Painter Plus also only supports the 0.015 tip. Is this a problem or could I spray at a higher pressure to compensate?

I'd like to hear people's opinions and experiences with these. Also, if anyone has any suggestions for units other than these I'd like to hear them as well.

Thanks in advance

Hiya KM...

Personally? ...I think I'd choose a 4-8' Wooster Sher-lock Extension Pole, a high quality 5 wire cage frame, a dozen or so Wooster Super Fab 9" X 1/2" Roller Covers and a Wooster 4 gallon paint tray (to speed the application process up, consider 14" equipment instead of 9") - then roll the interior surfaces, and forget about spraying. Spraying is a lot more fun...and it is an option, but not necessarily for the novice. Unless we're talking new construction here, all the time you save by spraying, will be eaten up (and then some) by drops, draping, masking and clean-up...and more clean-up...and possibly even more clean-up. And you will waste paint - a professional will burn about 15% more paint by spraying - it is conceivable a novice could use 20 - 30%+ more paint...and did I mention clean-up?

Also realize that by spraying interiors, it is usually advised to back roll the spray applied coating - which, to be effective & efficient, requires two people - 1 spraying, 1 back-rolling, or 1 person moving at a pretty frenetic pace.

Also realize that by spraying from a 1 gallon, or 5 gallon, pail - you'll be dragging around a rigid paint hose of at least 25 feet in length (a bit cumbersome in a small room) - when going from room to room, this rigid hose has a not-so-decorative way of marking up finished woodwork and trim. The alternative is to spray from a cup gun - which requires too frequent re-fills, and operates on too questionable of consistent pressure, resulting in a less than satisfactory performance and end-appearance.

Finally, if you're considering changing colors between rooms (and that includes ceilings), any hopes of any type of time, or material, savings is gone.

Think this option over carefully, and if you still insist on spraying - I would recommend buying a professional quality sprayer, and not consider the big box DIY versions (even if they do somewhat look the same - trust me, they're not) - then find somebody elses house to practice on before doing your own.

Sorry to sound so grim, but I'm not sure your experience will equal those shown in YouTube videos.

 

[Jmayspaint]

Ric makes some good points.

To your question I would go with the Graco project painter. The Truecoats are not really practical for spraying walls and ceilings. Being limited to a .15 tip size is not a problem for your purposes.

I've never used a Wagner sprayer that could hold a candle to even the smallest Gracos.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Gymschu]

Personally? ...I think I'd choose a 4-8' Wooster Sher-lock Extension Pole, a high quality 5 wire cage frame, a dozen or so Wooster Super Fab 9" X 1/2" Roller Covers and a Wooster 4 gallon paint tray (to speed the application process up, consider 14" equipment instead of 9") - then roll the interior surfaces, and forget about spraying. Spraying is a lot more fun...and it is an option, but not necessarily for the novice. Unless we're talking new construction here, all the time you save by spraying, will be eaten up (and then some) by drops, draping, masking and clean-up...and more clean-up...and possibly even more clean-up. And you will waste paint - a professional will burn about 15% more paint by spraying - it is conceivable a novice could use 20 - 30%+ more paint...and did I mention clean-up?

Wow, Ric hit it out of the park again!!!

If you are insistent on spraying, just rent a REAL spray unit from your local paintstore or rental store. Those units are built to spray UNTHINNED latex whereas the low end units you have mentioned in the 200 to 300 dollar range, will require you to thin the paint to get it to spray it onto the surface. Thinning compromises the integrity of the paint, causes runs, and, if you don't thin it just right, you end up with sputtering and spitting and you will curse your mother when that starts happening.

 

[km782]

Thank you for all of the replies. My thought was spraying would save time because you only have to do one coat vs. two if you are rolling.

I also figured a sprayed surface would be smoother than a rolled one but it sounds like everyone thinks that won't be true.

How about the power rollers where paint is pumped up to the roller so you don't have to keep going back and forth to a paint tray? (I think Wagner calls it a Smart Power Roller.) Has anyone tried those and if so are they worth it? Thanks

 

[Gymschu]

The Power Painters from Wagner are okay. I've seen some people use them with decent results. I just found that they weren't any faster than the roller tray + roller method.

 

[ToolSeeker]

Thank you for all of the replies. My thought was spraying would save time because you only have to do one coat vs. two if you are rolling.

I also figured a sprayed surface would be smoother than a rolled one but it sounds like everyone thinks that won't be true.

How about the power rollers where paint is pumped up to the roller so you don't have to keep going back and forth to a paint tray? (I think Wagner calls it a Smart Power Roller.) Has anyone tried those and if so are they worth it? Thanks

This is true BUT that is the problem. You have this really smooth surface and somebody dings it and you have to do a repair. The only way to match that smooth surface would mean the repair would have to be sprayed. To use a roller that leaves a stipple (texture) on that spot would stick out REALLY bad. This is the reason when walls are sprayed they are backrolled, to leave this stipple effect.

 

[wptski]

This is true BUT that is the problem. You have this really smooth surface and somebody dings it and you have to do a repair. The only way to match that smooth surface would mean the repair would have to be sprayed. To use a roller that leaves a stipple (texture) on that spot would stick out REALLY bad. This is the reason when walls are sprayed they are backrolled, to leave this stipple effect.

Is a repaint of rolled surface going to be that much smoother? I didn't notice any increased smoothness on my repaint of a garage door and I even used HVLP. Of course, it was straight from the can(long story) so that could have been the reason.

The Idaho Painter on YouTube doesn't back roll. Only time I've seen him do that is with stain on a fence and a barn, I think.

 

[ToolSeeker]

Idaho painter has a short video about backrolling he only does it on new drywall because it has no texture and only if the builder requires it.

 

[Fix'n it]

T

How about the power rollers where paint is pumped up to the roller so you don't have to keep going back and forth to a paint tray? (I think Wagner calls it a Smart Power Roller.) Has anyone tried those and if so are they worth it? Thanks

yes, i used to have one. i don't remember how it broke. but, when i was using it, it was GREAT ! NEVER had to stop to put paint on the roller = push the button and paint came out the roller ! awesome !

BUT

cleaning the thing was a real pita.

and i have used the paint sticks. they suck paint into the handle. these are nice also. and not as hard to clean, but still a pita.