[megablok]

We removed a sunken tub and installed a shower drain. The trap for the drain was 2" with a 1.5" reducer glued into it with a male thread sticking up.
We hooked up a 2" shower drain to it, however, while attempting to level the floor, the connection broke right at the base of the 1.5" male threaded adapter.
The trap is now under the ground below the slab and attached to the main drain somewhere under the slab in the soil.

How to repair this?

Help!

Im trying to upload an image, but it doesnt work......

 

[jaydevries]

are you able to show pic yet

 

[megablok]

I choose upload image but, the pop-up screen goes blank trying to upload and never recovers.....
aargh

 

[ben's plumbing]

bang bang bang went the hammer

 

[TheEplumber]

The trap is now under the ground below the slab and attached to the main drain somewhere under the slab in the soil.

How to repair this?

Help!

Im trying to upload an image, but it doesnt work......

Cut out the slap and rebuild the drain-- only way

 

[JDC]

Hate to be the bearer of bad news but it sounds like it's jackhammer time.

Good luck and keep up posted

 

[megablok]

The Trap is 2" with a 1.5" adapter glued into it. I was able to cut it nicely with a dremel along the top of the trap and remove the adapter.
Is it possible to glue on a 90-elbow 3" on the 2" trap?
Maybe then I could turn it with another 3" 90-elbow to a 3" shower drain.
Here is the picture.

 

[TheEplumber]

The Trap is 2" with a 1.5" adapter glued into it. I was able to cut it nicely with a dremel along the top of the trap and remove the adapter.
Is it possible to glue on a 90-elbow 3" on the 2" trap?
Maybe then I could turn it with another 3" 90-elbow to a 3" shower drain.
Here is the picture.

You might have to remove more concrete but the best fix is to cut behind the trap and extend the horizontal trap arm to where the ptrap needs to be. Then you can glue the drain right on top of the trap.
Using 3" 90's is a bad idea.

 

[bob22]

That slab looks about 15 mins of a good wacking with a sledge hammer to get what you need. Go for it! Use your anger!

 

[megablok]

More Problems. The trap is connected to the following:
Trap - Street 90 - Tee
The Tee has a vent pipe above it, and a Street Elbow below it. I cannot get to this street elbow because it is below the foundation slab.
I have a schematic showing the problem.
HELP!

 

[jaydevries]

use one off these at the t to remove street 90 will cost around $30
http://www.pascospecialty.com/catalog/PASCO_CATALOG_C.pdf

 

[megablok]

Thanks so much Jaydevries. We are trying to find that tool in Houston, TX. Will post updates soon.

 

[megablok]

We found the tool and drilled out the male adapter from the p-trap. However, I am a bit concerned that the hub wall thickness may now be too thin and could potentially break.
It measures 3.90mm at the thinnest point. At the same time, it is very difficult to drill out the street elbow from the Tee. We are no sure what is behind the street elbow under the Tee either.
ASTM D2661 says that the nominal thickness of ABS 2" is 0.154 inches which is 3.9mm - exactly that it measures on the hub.
I want to install a street elbow 90 on the P-trap, extend with a pipe and another street 90 to connect to new shower drain. Is that a recommended configuration?

 

[jaydevries]

no that is not correct the trap should be moved so it is under shower drain then a piece of pipe to go straight up into shower drain, this way shower drains correctly and also if ever clogged. a drain snake can be ran through pipe. also you should fill hole back in with dirt to cover trap then add at least 3 inches of concrete leaving 6 inch hole with shower pipe in center of hole. so the bottom of shower is solid around drain. if it is a fiberglass shower read install instructions most recommend setting pan in mortar to firm up bottom and to level, this will also help so shower pan does not crack after a few years of use

also the cut out tool make sure you have correct guide washer for abs. try to keep cutter straight after cutting out pipe sand inside of fitting then use plenty of glue on pipe and inside of fitting so when pipe is pushed into fitting there is a pool of glue around pipe

 

[ben's plumbing]

We found the tool and drilled out the male adapter from the p-trap. However, I am a bit concerned that the hub wall thickness may now be too thin and could potentially break.
It measures 3.90mm at the thinnest point. At the same time, it is very difficult to drill out the street elbow from the Tee. We are no sure what is behind the street elbow under the Tee either.
ASTM D2661 says that the nominal thickness of ABS 2" is 0.154 inches which is 3.9mm - exactly that it measures on the hub.
I want to install a street elbow 90 on the P-trap, extend with a pipe and another street 90 to connect to new shower drain. Is that a recommended configuration?

I would not install that way ...move trap to under center of shower...

 

[megablok]

We have now found that the offset shower drain that we were going to use on the existing trap is not enough to clear the board+tile on the wall.

Looked at Oatey 42787 and Sioux Chief 825-2PFS offset drains.

We'd appreciate any suggestions to make it work with the existing trap.

Thanks all.

 

[megablok]

Because of the clearance issues of the drain from the wall if directly connected to the existing p-trap, we are considering the following arrangement. It is not the best way, but, I am posting it here for comments from you all.
thanks in advance. We appreciate your inputs.

 

[jaydevries]

it should be the same pipe material where it is glued abs to abs, pvc to pvc multi purpose glue for same pipe material not dissimilar pipe material

it looks to me in last pic you could do it correctly by just removing a little dirt cut the 90 on trap then put coupling and then reroute drain as needed i do a lot of tub to shower conversions and it is rare that i have to break concrete to reroute drain mostly just need to fill a 5 gallon bucket up with dirt then rework pipes, pour dirt back in, and then mix some concrete

doing it the way you want sure it is your house you can do it wrong since it is easier . will it work yes. is there a good possibility that the drain will be slow draining i say yes. is there a chance of drain clogging and having to snake it yes will it be able to be snaked yes but good luck getting through the trap

 

[ben's plumbing]

Because of the clearance issues of the drain from the wall if directly connected to the existing p-trap, we are considering the following arrangement. It is not the best way, but, I am posting it here for comments from you all.
thanks in advance. We appreciate your inputs.

this thread is going on and on ...I like your idea you already know it not the best ....so just make sure you use pvc glue on the abs fitting you will be fine...set it up pour your concrete have a beer and call it a wrap....:yes::yes:

 

[megablok]

@ jaydevries and ben's plumbing

Thanks for your inputs. I am trying to get this right. Because, the final finish is a tile floor. Something wrong now and big problems later.

@jaydevries:
The opposing street 90s that I am showing in the picture is a dry fit on the drain. I want to extend the drain with a 90 on the p-trap just like you suggested. But I am concerned that the weight of the pipe + elbow + drain will cause the p-trap hub to crack without proper support under the pipe.

I came up with a few more sketches as alternatives. Option 1 is the opposing street elbows which i dont like. Option 2 is moving the drain with a street 90 and pipe; with the pipe supported in 2x6s. Then I could install plywood on ttop of the 2x6s. From there on, it could be cement board + tile OR shower base.

Still have the thinking hat on.....

Never thought this would become such a beast.