[originalhandy]

Carrier Corporation
Model 395baw048095
Product 395baw048095aaba

As the title says, the heating was working fine and I turned it off but the fan never turned off. I left the house so it ran for a few hours before I came back and heard the fan still running. I had to take the door off the heater for the fan to turn off.

Now the problem too is that the heating wont turn on, its an auto ignition system so I dont smell or hear a click to ignite when I am beside the heater and have the wife kick the heating on.

The switch to turn the heating on hasnt got a switch or button for fan only that I have seen on some of the setups where I lived.

What could cause these problems, where do I need to start looking etc ?

 

[carmon]

sounds like hi limit open.... turn power off then back on.... check for air flow restrictions...i.e. dirty air filter....:thumbsup:

 

[originalhandy]

I just killed the power and banged out the filter, though you know the filter banging didnt do too much at all. I even ran it without the filter in it for a min and as soon as the door was put on the fan kicked in, the pilot didnt light for heat even when I turned the switch on upstairs.
Heres the whole unit

In the box with the warning there is a motherboard and a red light is on and flashes. Seems to stay on sold for a tiny bit then flash for a while. Not sure if thats a sign of an issue or if its normal or what.

 

[carmon]

those flashes are telling you an error code...should be on the door somewhere what they mean......

 

[Legacyairsystem]

count the flashes on the status short and long (maybe), did you try taking the wires off the hight limit (behing gas valve)take them off and jumper with a wire if you dont have a meter, (this is for testing) only, good luck

 

[Doc Holliday]

Is the small exhaust motor fan running as well?

 

[originalhandy]

There is just a wiring diagram on that door, cant find any stickers anywhere.
It *seems* to go 4 blinks stop, 6 blinks stop, 10 blinks stop then just continually blinks.

 

[originalhandy]

count the flashes on the status short and long (maybe), did you try taking the wires off the hight limit (behing gas valve)take them off and jumper with a wire if you dont have a meter, (this is for testing) only, good luck

No I havent tried taking the wires off the gas valve and jump them.

 

[originalhandy]

Is the small exhaust motor fan running as well?

No that fan does not startup.

 

[carmon]

thats the first thing that has to happen..... and no jumping gas valve ......that would be a poor idea.......measure w to c should have 24 volts.... if not thermostat or wiring defective....:thumbup:

 

[originalhandy]

thats the first thing that has to happen..... and no jumping gas valve ......that would be a poor idea.......measure w to c should have 24 volts.... if not thermostat or wiring defective....:thumbup:

OK ill measure that first thing in the morning, its in me storm shelter so i have to run outside and jack with me broken door to get downstairs ... too cold for these battered bones to go out again! Also, stupid question probably but what do you mean "w to c"

I really appreciate the help though too, specially being so late at night! :thumbup:

 

[Doc Holliday]

Put the stat on call for heat and raise the set point, so the furnace remains calling for heat.

You're going to need to tape that white door switch in so there's power to the furnace/board. You're also going to need to remove the metal plate with the WARNING sticker on it inside of the furnace to expose the control board.


On the control board there will be terminals with wires on it, labeled R_C_G_W_Y, that's where Carmon is referring to to check for 24 volts.


What I also would do is check the IND terminal on the board (still while stat on call for heat with that door switch pushed in, taped in would be best so you have two hands) for 120 volts. You can put one lead of the meter onto the IND terminal and the other anywhere on the cabinet, any metal of the furnace. This will show potential to ground. If the board is not sending 120 volts to the inducer to come on then the board is the problem. If it is then you most likely have a bad inducer fan motor, the little exhaust motor.

You can double check this by unwiring the electrical to the furnace and hard wiring, bypassing the control board, straight to the inducer, use the electrical straight to the motor.

If you get that far let us know, we'll walk you through it.

 

[bclark24]

OK ill measure that first thing in the morning, its in me storm shelter so i have to run outside and jack with me broken door to get downstairs ... too cold for these battered bones to go out again! Also, stupid question probably but what do you mean "w to c"

I really appreciate the help though too, specially being so late at night! :thumbup:

w to c is heat to common on your board where your t stat wires go
w is usually a white wire for heat y is a yellow wire for cool green wire is usually for fan red wire is the hot 24v wire c is the white wire 24v comming from 24v transformer

 

[originalhandy]

I have 24v across w to c.

This is all I have wiring wise.

 

[originalhandy]

Where is the IND terminal in the board ?