If you have 3/4" plywood subfloor you will be fine running it parallel to the joists===
Harwood in a Galley Kitchen Parallel to the Joists?
I'm installing Teragren Synergy Solid Strip 3 3/4 wide, and a full 1/2 Inch thick.
This flooring is baked in an autoclave, and is rated at a hardness of 3271; over twice as hard as red oak (1290) and North American maple (1450).
The manufacturer recommends the floor be nailed or glued down in their installation specifications. I am laying it on top of the original subfloor. The house was built in 1960
I understand that conventional wisdom dictates hardwood be laid perpendicular to the floor joists. Apparently the flooring is nailed down to the top of each joist during installation?
My mother has her heart set on laying the flooring in the galley kitchen perpendicular to the length of interior cabinets, and exterior wall, this would be parallel to the joists. The galley kitchen is 50 Inches wide.
The original kitchen floor and new bamboo floor will be supporting a refrigerator.
Can I get away with these 50" spans parallel to the floor joists in the galley kitchen? If so is nailing or stapling preferable?
The flooring will extend beyond the end of the galley kitchen, and into the adjacent dining room, essentially forming an L
Can I get away with laying the new hardwood parallel to the joists in the dining room as well?
I could change the orientation of the flooring at the transition between the end of the galley kitchen threshold and into the Dining room if necessary, though I would prefer not to.
If it's just not feasible to lay the kitchen parallel to the joists, I'll revert to traditional installation perpendicular to the joists.
This flooring is baked in an autoclave, and is rated at a hardness of 3271; over twice as hard as red oak (1290) and North American maple (1450).
The manufacturer recommends the floor be nailed or glued down in their installation specifications. I am laying it on top of the original subfloor. The house was built in 1960
I understand that conventional wisdom dictates hardwood be laid perpendicular to the floor joists. Apparently the flooring is nailed down to the top of each joist during installation?
My mother has her heart set on laying the flooring in the galley kitchen perpendicular to the length of interior cabinets, and exterior wall, this would be parallel to the joists. The galley kitchen is 50 Inches wide.
The original kitchen floor and new bamboo floor will be supporting a refrigerator.
Can I get away with these 50" spans parallel to the floor joists in the galley kitchen? If so is nailing or stapling preferable?
The flooring will extend beyond the end of the galley kitchen, and into the adjacent dining room, essentially forming an L
Can I get away with laying the new hardwood parallel to the joists in the dining room as well?
I could change the orientation of the flooring at the transition between the end of the galley kitchen threshold and into the Dining room if necessary, though I would prefer not to.
If it's just not feasible to lay the kitchen parallel to the joists, I'll revert to traditional installation perpendicular to the joists.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
I agree with Mike. We have never had an issue with installing parallel to the joists when their is a nice 3/4" plywood subfloor to lay on. If you don't have plywood, you could maybe add a layer, if your height allows for it. For nailing it, I would use one of these http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Bostitch-EHF1838K-Engineered-Hardwood/dp/B003BVJU2O. I believe that Home Depot rents them, but could be wrong. Also, I would suggest not using any top nails. Teragren is so hard it coils them up. Instead, glue the last rows where the nailer will not get.
I kinda doubt that the floors are 3/4 ply, the house was built in the late 50's... Has the original linoleum glued down, so I wasn't able to determine on my last look at her floors.If you have 3/4" plywood subfloor you will be fine running it parallel to the joists===
I'm flying in to do this remodel for my Mom, I won't be able to confirm what exactly the subfloor is till I start removing the old linoleum.
Jut trying to stage this so I can get-er-dun during the time I have alloted when I fly in.
If it helps, maybe you could ask her to check the in the basement if it is not finished. Or another place to check might me in a floor vent. But you are probably right, my house was built in the 50's and I don't have plywood. I'm not sure when plywood started to be used.. I'm not old enough.
1950's, most likely 1x6's, but depending on the builder, 5/8" plywood or 3/4" was laid as the sub floor. Home building methods were different depending on the area of the country. Was not until the 70's when you started to see cheap building, then the 80's really brought on cheaper building methods, which are still in place. Homes built from the 70's to the late 90's were no different than manufactured homes. Fell apart after a few years, cheap kitchen cabinets, lazy building methods.
Even today you see cheaper lazier building methods for homes, no matter how much they price the place out at. Personally I would not worry about it, as long as you have a good sub floor, and it isn't pressed sawdust. But even that can be changed out with the right tools in just a couple of hours.
Even today you see cheaper lazier building methods for homes, no matter how much they price the place out at. Personally I would not worry about it, as long as you have a good sub floor, and it isn't pressed sawdust. But even that can be changed out with the right tools in just a couple of hours.
No basement, vents in the walls, she's 75 and too old to worn her way through the outdoor access trap to see under the house. I guess I'm gonna have to freestyle it!If it helps, maybe you could ask her to check the in the basement if it is not finished. Or another place to check might me in a floor vent. But you are probably right, my house was built in the 50's and I don't have plywood. I'm not sure when plywood started to be used.. I'm not old enough.
I believe your probably right, I have a 30 yr old faint recollection that suggests they were 1X's laid on the diagonal. Was a custom home well constructed when I gave it a once over before she bought it.1950's, most likely 1x4's, but depending on the builder, 5/8" plywood or 3/4" was laid as the sub floor. Home building methods were different depending on the area of the country. Was not until the 70's when you started to see cheap building, then the 80's really brought on cheaper building methods, which are still in place. Homes built from the 70's to the late 90's were no different than manufactured homes. Fell apart after a few years, cheap kitchen cabinets, lazy building methods.
Even today you see cheaper lazier building methods for homes, no matter how much they price the place out at. Personally I would not worry about it, as long as you have a good sub floor, and it isn't pressed sawdust. But even that can be changed out with the right tools in just a couple of hours.
Do some checking---1950s house --typical floor system---1x6 skip sheeting---1x2 sleepers---then the hardwood or plywood (usually 3/4" to match the hardwood.
Often the 1x2 space in the floor sandwich was use as a chase for conduit---if so--be careful---nailing into a conduit could ruin you day----been there---
Often the 1x2 space in the floor sandwich was use as a chase for conduit---if so--be careful---nailing into a conduit could ruin you day----been there---
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
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