[gwilkrrs]

my addition is a slab on grade floor, i plaN to put a vapor barrier (6mil poly) over the entire slab then screw 3/4" plywood down to it then cover that with 15# felt paper then the 3/4" hardwood. does this sound good?

 

[stadry]

method's good to me but i'd use hardibacker instead of ply

 

[oh'mike]

You are talking about a very risky installation---any moisture from the slab will cause severe swelling and buckling---you must do a moisture check every where on that slab before you even think about this method---

Your vapor barrier will be riddled with holes so it will provide little protection---

 

[joecaption]

Hold up on that idea.
And I know for a fact tile boards not the way to go. For one it's never used over a slab, #2 it's sure not going to hold nails or staples.
I'd be looking into engineered hardwood since it's going over a slab. Simpler to install, can be installed as a floating floor, far more stable, still looks like real wood because the top layer is real wood.

 

[stadry]

am holding :furious: failed that guy - we installed conc o'lays OVER hardibacker screwed into wood flooring,,, not cure what i was thinking :jester: am suitable chagrined, embarrassed, & chastized,,, no mo' flogging, please :no:

 

[oh'mike]

Use a Cat-O-Nine Tails--I do and it works so well---

 

[carpdad]

1. thickest vapor barrier you can find in one sheet. If you have to use pieces, tape the seam with gorilla tape. Double the barrier and grade the outside so that rain flows away from the slab. These are insurance and no guarantees. Moisture test the slab and condition the material to the indoors before installing it.

2. use the floating floor and extra gap along the wall. Even then look for basement engineered floor that comes in narrow sizes. I used 7" wide, wood veneer floating floor (Bruce from homedepot 2003) over wood framed second floor, and each piece has slight cup upwards. Rest of the family don't notice it, though.

 

[gwilkrrs]

i talked to a couple flooring pros and they all feel comfortable with my thoughts..... one sugested double layer vapor barrier and 3/4" tongue and groove not nailed to slab to act as a floating floor then the hardwood nailed to this. i understand the no holes thru vapor barier..... but am worried that the plywood will move or curl and destroy the flooring.....
taring the barrier down still would leave moisture around the scews....

 

[rusty baker]

I know that some pros say they put plywood on concrete, but every time I have seen it done, in my 40 years in the business, it has always failed. I would just put engineered on the concrete.

 

[msaeger]

I don't know about flooring but I know when you have framing touching concrete you need a pressure treated bottom plate so I would think the plywood would rot.

 

[gwilkrrs]

so for the non believers due you think covering the entire slab with a product like grace ice and water shield stuck directly to the slab would be better?

 

[ToolSeeker]

Just curious why you are against engineered floor? Just installed one on a slab glued directly to slab with a special glue that forms it own vapor barrier. Would save a lot of labor and expense and you still get a hardwood floor.

 

[gwilkrrs]

honestly i am unfamiliar with engineered flooring for one- another is because i want my new floor to match the entire existing houses floor.

 

[ToolSeeker]

Ok the difference between hardwood and engineered floor is hardwood is the species of wood all the way thru the plank, engineered is basically plywood (no movement- expansion or contraction) with whatever species of wood you want on top so you could match. Hardwood can be refinished quite a few times, engineered can only be refinished about 3 times, if this is important to you. The decision is yours I'm just trying to give you another option. There are some flooring guys on here that may do better at explaining this than I did, they should be along to help.

 

[gwilkrrs]

ok- i feel better to investigate and explore engineered with that explanation- i lumped all flooring into 2 catagories real wood floor and fake floating floors- i do not like the laminate (wood)flooring and have installed a couple for others. this sounds like wood onj wood wich wouldnt have the dreaded click sound when walking on

 

[joecaption]

Engineered and laminite are totaly differant, and even look totaly differant.
Your never going to see an ad for a home boosting about having new laminte floors.

 

[rusty baker]

Ok the difference between hardwood and engineered floor is hardwood is the species of wood all the way thru the plank, engineered is basically plywood (no movement- expansion or contraction) with whatever species of wood you want on top so you could match. Hardwood can be refinished quite a few times, engineered can only be refinished about 3 times, if this is important to you. The decision is yours I'm just trying to give you another option. There are some flooring guys on here that may do better at explaining this than I did, they should be along to help.

You did a good job explaining it.

 

[Awoodfloorguy]

ok- i feel better to investigate and explore engineered with that explanation- i lumped all flooring into 2 catagories real wood floor and fake floating floors- i do not like the laminate (wood)flooring and have installed a couple for others. this sounds like wood onj wood wich wouldnt have the dreaded click sound when walking on

Many engineered floors can have as thick of a top layer as real solid hardwood. So it can be refinished just as many times. A couple good brands to check out are real hardwood floors and shamrock. You can find both online. Hope this helps.