Hardi-Board in a three sided shower, not laying flush

Hi Bud,

I think I knew the answer prior to posting.

To re-frame the wall will be interesting as i have 2x10 between the studs limiting my access to the sill board. Not to mention the completed pan.

Removing the cement board is not an issue.

Does You/anyone think i will be somewhat succesful studding horizontally to create a nailing edge? and avoid the above mentioned problems.

Lastly how much imperfection can i mask with thinset and tape when i seal the seams?

Paul

Hi Bud,

Not sure if i understand "fir it out". Can you explain further.

Secondly, I am guessing i am going to have additional problems.

The cement board is meeting existing drywall that was 1/2". The cement board was .3/8" (much to my dismay as the retailer had it listed as 1/2".)

Anyways i shimmed it out with 1/8" shims to bring it to level with the existing drywall.

I was planning on extending the tiles, past the new cement board and onto the existing board, and figured that i would be able to feather out the difference when mudding.

Hence my earlier question on how much imperfection can i mask with thinset/mortar and tape when i seal the joints?

Seeing your earlier answer i may be removing my cement board and starting over.
Paul

Sorry!

To "fir out" is to place strips of wood on top of other strips of wood in this case the studs. The studs are installed vertical. The firring strips would be installed perpendicular/horizontal to the studs and spaced every 16" on center. Making sure that the seam/juncture of the lower cement board and upper cement board have substantial firring behind it. This may require two firring strips at the seam/juncture location if using 1X2 firring.

Cement board is typically 1/2" in thickness but the quality control isn't that good these days. Fiber cement board is typically 7/16" thick even though they call it 1/2" also. Go figure.

Yes you can feather the cement board/drywall juncture but use thinset to do so. Probably shouldn't shim the drywall and create a curve you don't want. Filling it later is better in my thinking.

I would install the seam tape over the seams and wait until I was spreading the thinset to set the tile to fill the seams at that time. The cement board/drywall juncture may require a little advance fill.