I have an old bathroom mirror that was framed by adhering the frame directly to the glass. Hence, when you see it from behind, all you see is the mirror, no frame edge. Here's the dilemma: I can't add hangers because there is no wood for them to screw into. I can't use plastic clips because the frame makes the mirror too thick. Does anyone have a good idea for how I can attach it to a wall without using adhesive? The mirror is ridiculously heavy--not sure how much, but I'm guessing close to 50 lbs. Up until now it's just been on a mantle, leaning, but in the remodel, the mantle has gone away.
Hanging a heavy framed mirror with no hangers
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Unfortunately, the frame was attached to the front of the mirror with adhesive, so there's no way to get it off. I'm at work, so can't do pictures since they are at home. However, the best way I can describe it is to imagine the front looking like a regular framed mirror. Now imagine the back as just a plain mirror, no frame. I keep thinking the only way is to adhere some sort of hanger(s) to the back, but as heavy as it is, I don't know if there are any adhesives out there that would hold the weight.
There's a bit that designed for drilling glass. A Google search will turn up the info, I would think.Wildie--I had wondered about that. I'll have to do some checking to see how it's done. I do remember that I need to tape over where I'm drilling to help prevent cracking. Thanks!
Your construction glass (or fine arts glass if you have one) supplier will have options for floating the mirror without clips. An expoxy or construction adhesive might let you glue weld just about any sort of bracket rated for the weight of the mirror to the back of it. Just make sure the part of it or whatever fasteners in the wall are strong enough and anchored properly. Be careful not to damage the silvering.
Anchoring a mirror that heavy through holes drilled at four corners would not be a great option.
I have used a system somewhat like this for floating heavy glass or flat resin sculptures in the gallery world. As show you start with with a block of hardwood that will run near the full width of the piece and I guess 3/4" thick. Slice it at an angle as shown. One half gets leveled and anchored into the wall. The other gets construction glued to the back of the piece. When the glue is set, lift the piece with strip glued to it in place so it drops into the matching half attached to the wall. This provides good support the full width of the piece and distributes the weight.
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Anchoring a mirror that heavy through holes drilled at four corners would not be a great option.
I have used a system somewhat like this for floating heavy glass or flat resin sculptures in the gallery world. As show you start with with a block of hardwood that will run near the full width of the piece and I guess 3/4" thick. Slice it at an angle as shown. One half gets leveled and anchored into the wall. The other gets construction glued to the back of the piece. When the glue is set, lift the piece with strip glued to it in place so it drops into the matching half attached to the wall. This provides good support the full width of the piece and distributes the weight.
Why not? The silvering on mirrors isn't likely to be able to hold any weight. Especially, old mirrors!
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I recently hung a mantle using the cleat approach that sdsester showed in the drawing.
Why not drill through two (top and bottom) cleats/glass and attach the cleats to the back of the frame every 6 inches or so. No visible screws and the cleat should be able carry the weight.
Option 2
If the frame has a straight edge (not ornate) then maybe adding a perimeter frame that you can drill into would work.
RKA
Why not drill through two (top and bottom) cleats/glass and attach the cleats to the back of the frame every 6 inches or so. No visible screws and the cleat should be able carry the weight.
Option 2
If the frame has a straight edge (not ornate) then maybe adding a perimeter frame that you can drill into would work.
RKA
I had seen the cleats, but didn't know if there was any adhesive strong enough to stay attached to the mirror. I can just see it giving way in the middle of the night! Someone else had suggest calling a glass company. I may just do that. I just hate to pay someone for something I feel like I should be able to do. On the other hand, sometimes it's worth it to forego the inconvenience.
Construction adhesive would hold to the glass, especially across the width of the mirror put the problem is you would have to chew up the silvering in places if it is the outside coating on the back.
A glass company should have a number of floating systems.
A glass company should have a number of floating systems.
You would screw the cleats to the wall. You can't rely on just an adhesive for this.
Sometimes you need to let an experienced hand do a job, especially if the consequences of failure will cause injury.
I think this would be one of those cases.
sdsester--the problem is that they don't have anything that comes out far enough from the wall to accommodate the thickness of the glass and the frame.
Ron--I would screw the one cleat to the wall. The problem here is that the other cleat has to attach directly to the back of the mirror, so how could I do that?
I called 2 glass places. One said she had no idea how to work around this. The other suggested using glass adhesive to attach a board to the back of the mirror, then attach hangers to that. Sounds like the best plan so far.
Ron--I would screw the one cleat to the wall. The problem here is that the other cleat has to attach directly to the back of the mirror, so how could I do that?
I called 2 glass places. One said she had no idea how to work around this. The other suggested using glass adhesive to attach a board to the back of the mirror, then attach hangers to that. Sounds like the best plan so far.
How does attaching a board with glass adhesive differ from attaching the top half of the cleat I showed? And at least with the cleat you have load bearing surface along the full length, not just where you would put hangers. I just cannot visualize how to glue either part of a cleat or a board without mucking up the silver backing.
I'm not sure I understand how putting the adhesive on would screw up the silvering. Mirrors (like on closet doors, etc) are often attached with mirror adhesive, and that seems to be o.k. Now, if the cleat or the board were to pull away, I can see how that would be a mess!
Maybe you're right! Hey, if you're wrong you can always buy a replacement mirror. can't you! :yes:
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How thick and wide is the actual frame? If the glass could be drilled (by you or a pro) then screwing the cleats to the top and bottom rails should work shouldn't it?
Rick
Rick
Wildie--the mirror was, in essence, free. So if I screw it up, no big deal. Although of course, I'd rather not.
Rick--it's about 2 3/4" wide, and about 1/2" think (it's decorative baseboard trim). The 2 places I called said they would not drill it. Well, one said maybe, but they'd have to see it first.
Rick--it's about 2 3/4" wide, and about 1/2" think (it's decorative baseboard trim). The 2 places I called said they would not drill it. Well, one said maybe, but they'd have to see it first.
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Here's a section view of my other suggestion - adding a perimeter frame...
Is this a possibility?
Is this a possibility?
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