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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi,

I have a dilemna in making sure I hang a porch swing securly. The porch is about 5 ft wide from the house to the beam and post support. The part that connects to the house is just toed in and notched to also sit on a facing board for more strength. I have 3 pictures. Is this secure enough?

The second question is in regard to having to install another board for spacing issues. The 2x6 rafters have 2x4s mounted flat against them and perpendicular. These are what the vinyl soffit panels are mounted to that create the porch roof. Therefore, I can't just mount the swing eye screws to the rafters because there is now a 1.5" space between the panels and the underside of the rafter. What is the proper procedure to mount some board under the rafter? I thought of taking a 2x10 and mounting it perpendicular to span 2 rafters and then changing the eye screws for eye bolts, but not sure it that would work. I can't mount to the middle of this piece, it would mount more toward the rafter. I guess that would defeat the purpose of trying to spread the load between two rafters.

I thought of just taking a 2x4 and bolting it with lag screws to the bottom of the joist, running along its length and then putting my eye screw through both the 2x4 and the joist. But I don't know how secure that is, now I am going through 1.5 inches of 2x4 and maybe 1 inch into the bottom of the joist. Any help from structural experts? I imagine I need to support 350 to 400lbs of load.

I guess one more option would be to get 2x8 and make my own beam running right next to another one and notch it in all the places I would need so it drops down that 1.5 inches and goes around the 2x4s and sits on the beam held up by the posts. But I'm not sure how to mount it and what my nail will toenail into on the house side. Thank you.




 

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I'd triple up the joist with the swing and bolt a 2x6 flat to the bottom for an even plane. The triple joist should be bolted(carraige bolts and nuts) together and construction adhesive used in the sandwich.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
good idea

Another solution I hadn't thought of! Thanks. Instead of sawing through the 2x4s, and to save wood, do you think that after I create a tripled up beam, I could just mount 2 2x6 plates on either side of the 2x4s? The 2, 2x4s break the beam up into 3 sections. I need to mount my eye screws in the outer 2 sections. So my thought would be to cut 2 plates and use 6 countersunk lag bolts to bolt each plate to the 3 beams (2 bolts go into each of the 3 parts of my triple beam from the bottom) and then screw my eye scew into the very center of each plate. The screw would go through the plate and into the center board of the triple beam.
 

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Another solution I hadn't thought of! Thanks. Instead of sawing through the 2x4s, and to save wood, do you think that after I create a tripled up beam, I could just mount 2 2x6 plates on either side of the 2x4s? The 2, 2x4s break the beam up into 3 sections. I need to mount my eye screws in the outer 2 sections. So my thought would be to cut 2 plates and use 6 countersunk lag bolts to bolt each plate to the 3 beams (2 bolts go into each of the 3 parts of my triple beam from the bottom) and then screw my eye scew into the very center of each plate. The screw would go through the plate and into the center board of the triple beam.
The flat 2x6 is just a spacer, so I don't see an issue as you're bolting it to the triple. Just do a quick calculation as to the bolt position so you don't put one where it conflicts with the swing hardware.
Ron
 

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1-2x4 will carry 400#-600#, depending on the species. 2- 2x4 will support 700#-1000#.

Be safe, Gary
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
One more question...

One more question (hopefully). If you look at my first post, the first picture, you will see that the roof trusses intersect the ceiling joists and are nailed to them. So If I want to triple the joist, do I have to take 2 more boards and bolt them to the original joist on the side away from the roof truss? Or can I put one on the side I have full access to and then on the side where the truss beam is, cut it to leave room for the truss. There will still be a very small piece of that board laying on the main beam of the porch, but for all intents, the original beam and the one on the free side will be fully supported on both ends, but the 3rd joist will support the length of the new beam, but be only two thirds suported on the end where the diagonal roof truss intersects it.
 

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You can put them on either side. I don't see a truss system, just a stick built frame. To compensate for the cut 2x6, you can install a plywood web on that side.
Ron
 
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