[jfmartel]

Hi, as the title implies, I had to add extra wood to my framing in the basement. The plumber needed bigger pipe. They added another 2x3 on top of the current 2x3. When the plumber was done, I realized that I need too an extra 2" for the dryer exhaust. I added a 2x4 on top of what was already there. (see pic)



Now, I need to install cabinet, I have 2 sections, both weight (empty) 70lbs each.


The first layer of 2x3 won't go anywhere since it's stuck in the spray foam. My issue is with the 2nd layer that has been secured diagonally with screw. The final 2x4 are secured to the middle 2x3 section.


Should I try to reinforce using the 1st floor joist? I could probably attach the 2x4 row to a secured 2x4 between the joist.



Thank you!

 

[chandler48]

I don't understand what you are doing, and the drawing confuses me even more. How did you pour concrete on top of air with joists below it? Is that concrete a floor or a wall? 2x3, maybe in Canada???

 

[jfmartel]

Hahaha. This is top view. So it's concrete wall, 2x3 (small side) with spray foam, another layer of 2x3 (small side) and then a 2x4 (long side).

 

[Nealtw]

Hi, as the title implies, I had to add extra wood to my framing in the basement. The plumber needed bigger pipe. They added another 2x3 on top of the current 2x3. When the plumber was done, I realized that I need too an extra 2" for the dryer exhaust. I added a 2x4 on top of what was already there. (see pic)



Now, I need to install cabinet, I have 2 sections, both weight (empty) 70lbs each.


The first layer of 2x3 won't go anywhere since it's stuck in the spray foam. My issue is with the 2nd layer that has been secured diagonally with screw. The final 2x4 are secured to the middle 2x3 section.


Should I try to reinforce using the 1st floor joist? I could probably attach the 2x4 row to a secured 2x4 between the joist.



Thank you!

Post a picture of the top of the wall and how it ties into the joists.

 

[Mystriss]

Is there ply between your original 2x3s? Do you have access to the wall cavity or is it rocked/etc.?

I tend to way over do stuff cause I don't like problems down the line and have just enough knowledge to be dangerous

Using the "middle set" of studs, I'd frame the cabinet mounting points up with two horizontal [standard facing stud] boards between the existing studs and a diagonal stud between em, jack studs beneath that "box" unit, then a single diagonal between the "jack studs" and another above it. Then flush out to the "interior flat" face using board(s) exactly where your screws are gonna hit. That way it doesn't matter as much how wonky the wall is, you've got support for all the weight taken all the way to the floor, braced with the ceiling, and tied to two sets of the side studs as well. It should act kinda like columns.

.... I might be a little paranoid ATM. I had a cabinet come loose from the wall in the big quake last year. I'm sure someone else has a cheaper idea though hahaha

 

[chandler48]

As Neal said, it will all hinge on how the top of the wall is treated. Your first 2x3 isn't held in place with spray foam. Foam may make it feel firm, but with cabinet weight, it could prove to not be so sturdy. Picture from below shot up at the top of the wall would help.

 

[Mystriss]

I drew a picture cause my words failed

(I'm planning to do something like this behind my TV mounts)

 

[huesmann]

What are your 2x3s fastened to, top and bottom?

 

[jfmartel]

Alright, here are the pictures.


Laundry in general where I want to put the Ikea cabinet. Notice at the top, the sideways 2x3 between the joist. This is where I could secure the last 2x4 in it.

From inside the wall

Another one

 

[jfmartel]

What are your 2x3s fastened to, top and bottom?

First layer of 2x3 (in spray foam) is secured at the bottom in the concrete and at the top, to the 1st floor joist.

 

[Nealtw]

Foam needs to be covered with drywall for your protection. walls with out a top plate defeats that. Nail a 2x4 to the ceiling in front of the wall.

 

[jfmartel]

Foam needs to be covered with drywall for your protection. walls with out a top plate defeats that. Nail a 2x4 to the ceiling in front of the wall.

I'll close that opening with a suspended ceiling within the next days.

 

[chandler48]

One thing better, nail a 2x6 flat as an additional top plate all the way across that wall, then add your studs, cut to fit. This will help keep the foam at bay per code.

 

[Nealtw]

One thing better, nail a 2x6 flat as an additional top plate all the way across that wall, then add your studs, cut to fit. This will help keep the foam at bay per code.

Almost impossible

 

[chandler48]

Yep, walls are up and it is all hindsight at this point.

 

[Nealtw]

I'll close that opening with a suspended ceiling within the next days.

Fill the space above the wall with rock wool insulation. You want to stop any air that would feed a fire and then cover that cavity right in front of the wall with drywall, 1/2 plywood or OSB caulk all to seal it all up and then add a 2x4 in front to support the wall.

 

[Nealtw]

Yep, walls are up and it is all hindsight at this point.

What do you think of post 16

 

[chandler48]

Yeah, at least to that first joist to form a sealed cavity. If further ceiling is needed, then so be it, but at least confine the foam.