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Discussion Starter #21
Honestly, most of the (its technical to me) is going right over my head. This isn't something I've ever even tried to learn how to fix or understand myself.

I can tell you there were two techs. One inside, one outside. They both looked young to me. The outside guy had to keep telling the inside guy about how to hook up the common wire when he was having trouble (I don't know spanish so I don't know the other problems or trash talkin that was being said). They originally had problems with getting it going. After they got it on, they told me there was a wire that is common to get hooked up to one of two different wires, and they each hooked it up to a different one. Not sure how full of it that was.
 

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Beyond checking the temperature difference between the supply and return, there's not much you can do without learning more.


I believe carrier is picky with respect to who they sell to, it's not over the counter equipment anyone with a license can buy.

So if you feel you're being jerked around by the contractor, call carrier and see if they can send a rep or recommend another contractor to check the installation out.

They likely have a number for consumers.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
The company was through home depot. I didn't think of that either. Calling home depot and having another company come out and check it might be worth it for piece of mind.


I just got a letter from the city saying how the company had to file for permits to do the job. I have 30 days to request the city to come out and verify their work, and they will come out the next day.


The salesman said they were going to install a Reme Halo as well, but I don't think they did, because the tech never said anything about it.
The tech told me they would replace the insulation over the copper line that runs through the attic, but they never went up there.
They put a mini slab of concrete on top of the old slab. Its angled and I think they could have leveled their little slab out with a little work (like the salesman told me it needed to be, but they didn't do that. This was stuff the salesman said, but didn't write down on the paperwork. Not sure how close to code it is.
 

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I believe carrier is picky with respect to who they sell to, it's not over the counter equipment anyone with a license can buy.



The number of dealers in a given territory is limited. But, any contractor can get a Carrier. In most areas.


So if you feel you're being jerked around by the contractor, call carrier and see if they can send a rep or recommend another contractor to check the installation out.


The home owner/end user is not Carrier's customer. The dealer is. Carrier won't send out a factory rep. Unless the contractor request it. And then only after the dealer has tried what they say over the phone.


They generally won't recommend another contractor, until the current one has made may attempts to correct the issues the unit is having. And of course, the home owner/consumer, has to pay for the new contractor to come out and do any work.


They likely have a number for consumers.

They will have a consumer number.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)




The blue wire is in #3. The white wire is in #4. He originally changed the blue from #2 to #3.

I see that diagram on the left side. I think he followed that, and then noticed the SPEED TAP SELECTION.


SPEED TAP SELECTION #5 SEE NOTE 7
SEE NOTE #6 (ON THE SIDE),
#6 says To change speed tap, move blue wire to desired terminal.
#7 says "See airflow tables for tap usage.


I think I found the TAP airflow here. Just not sure what other factors matter.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/791731/Carrier-Fx4d.html?page=8#manual
 

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Discussion Starter #26
beenthere:

So its more or less like saying: Ford won't sell a car to me, they will sell it to the dealer, and I work with the dealer. If I have problems with the car, I go to the dealer, give em chances to fix it, or I pay to take it somewhere else and see if they can fix it. Fords not going to jump in on something that SHOULD be a waste of their time, until the techs give it a good try probably more than once. Then Ford more or less won't get interested until it might be a design or production thing. (I think I said the exact same thing you did, I just changed the company. For some reason, its a little more relatable and understandable).
 

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it's already on high speed.

the air handler appears to be single speed/stage for cooling mode without anything special for dehumidification, separate speed used for electric heat mode if you have elements installed.
 

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Move the blue wire to tap 5, and see how it does.
 

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I would not accept it. I want 72 day and 68 night. My NY house will do that, as will my house in FL. Even my shop will hold 68 all the time.
 

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for some reason tap 3 is listed as high speed in that diagram.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Move the blue wire to tap 5, and see how it does.
I didn't feel comfortable just doing that. On page 9 of that manual

(https://www.manualslib.com/manual/791731/Carrier-Fx4d.html?page=9#manual)

It shows the tables and shows tap 3 and 4 are the same CFM, and tap 5 is about 10% more than that. It shows for that setting airflow outside 450 cfm/ton. I found the air conditioner has a CFM of 3223. Am I reading it right that its more than twice what is needed, and there shouldn't be any problem with me changing the blue to the #5?
 

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Outdoor unit cfm is totally different from indoor.

Use the highest tap. It's very easy to change the speed, just shut the power before you poke around in the air handler. I got confused and though tap 3 is the highest available for some reason.

Do as beenthere suggested.

The cfm increase will depend on how high the duct pressure is right now - just do it.
 

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supposed to be single stage AC, with dual stage blower which allows for humidity control.
The Carrier fx4dnf037l00 is a single stage air handler and I'm not aware that it has the capability to slow down for improved humidity control. You need a variable speed air handler to do that. Ask the installer to show you where the dehumidification wire from the thermostat connects to the air handler (I don't see one)
 

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Discussion Starter #34
The Carrier fx4dnf037l00 is a single stage air handler and I'm not aware that it has the capability to slow down for improved humidity control. You need a variable speed air handler to do that. Ask the installer to show you where the dehumidification wire from the thermostat connects to the air handler (I don't see one)
I keep reading its a 5 stage blower.

This ecobee thermostat does have humidity control on it. When it was installed it started at 60%, and was holding it. I dropped it to 50%, and its been keeping it within 2%. I dropped it almost a week ago, and since then the outside humidity has been in the 90s and in the 20s a couple days later. The thermostat is keeping it between 49 and 52%.
 

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It's a 5 speed-tap blower, not stage. It only uses one speed tap for cooling operation.

The thermostat likely has nothing connected to the accessory terminal - there are probably only 4-5 wires connected.

50% humidity is normal when the cooling runs enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Its certainly supposed to be a dual or multi stage air blower or pump (i know its on the inside).

The only wires connected are:
Rc (red)
G (green)
Y1 (yellow)
C (dark green)
W1 (white)

The salesman is having someone come back out in a few days because: I think they forgot to install the Reme Halo, I mentioned it still just doesn't cool like I think it should (will bring up the fan speed), and I think they should do better on the AC slab (they just put a small concrete pad over top of my sloping AC slab). I think I want to wait for them to come out before I change anything to see what they say. I'm also pretty sure I'm going to have the city come out after, and inspect it (as long as its free), which I think it will be.
 

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Almost all basic blower motors used since the 1980s have 3 to 5 speed taps to get proper airflow for the application.

Staging is something totally different - you have a single stage system.
 

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Its certainly supposed to be a dual or multi stage air blower or pump (i know its on the inside).

The only wires connected are:
Rc (red) 24 volt power to the thermostat.
G (green) Sends 24 volts back to the fan board to run the blower.
Y1 (yellow) Sends 24 volts back to the air handler and to the outdoor unit for cooling.
C (dark green) 24 volt common, to operate the thermostat.
W1 (white) Sends 24 volts to the air handler for heat.

Take notice, there is no wire connected to slow the blower.
 

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With all the talks here, did you provide the temperature drop between the supply and return air as asked by several posters ? That temp drop number will pretty much tell us if your system is running fine or not.
 

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This probably doesn't apply to your issue but it needs to be shared. I had AC installed in a home and one room wasn't getting anything. Short story: somebody had stuck an empty bag of chips deep in the duct work. Damn! CHECK EVERYTHING.
 
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