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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys, I'm in the middle of repairing wood rot due to my roof/gutters not doing a proper job of redirecting water and once I make the repairs to the wood I'll need to know what to do to prevent it from happening again


My house has a metal roof and what looks like custom gutters, I've never seen anything like it before... they act as an apron and gutter in one, going up under the roof. I removed the gutters before taking a picture but the end of the gutter goes up against the side of the house and I guess because of how the water is running off, the wood gets wet.


Also the other picture is showing another part that I already repaired at the front, this area was rotting at the end of the gutter. I suppose having downspouts would fix this but these don't seem to be actual gutters you can buy parts for...
 

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Against the house you need a kickout flashing. The rot could also be from water getting under the fascia, not sure how the roof butts there but the little 1" or 1.5" flashing looks to be on the face of it rather than under the fascia.

The open end gutter can always be capped and you can install a downspout as well. The rake "drip edge" looks to be blocking the flow and maybe turbulence caused the water to get behind the fascia somewhere before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
The only real drip edge that is there is the gutter that slips right under the metal roofing. The roofing just overhangs a lot making the gutter hard to gain access to. I was thinking about trimming it back.

I looked in to kickout flashing and that looks like something that would help a lot. Maybe once I get everything sealed up better than it was before it will be fine. With kickout.

So much works goes in to a 60's home :(


Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Oh yea, that seems to be sealed to the fascia, nothing on the fascia from that point up seems to be affected. Mainly just the parts I had to cut out.
I can't imagine having to rip out the entire trim and fascia and putting that under it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
So to my understanding, reading some other sites, that flash should actually be bent at an angle at the end is that correct? Or I guess I can make a kickout like you mentioned to go under it and roof, it won't be behind the fascia though
 

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Have to see more pics, but if that little guy is the only wall flashing it doesn't go under the siding (frieze board) and the leg doesn't look long enough on top the roof. Usually metal roof manufs provide ready-made flashing to fit their product profile. You probably have enough play to look under the roofing sheet to see if they have a membrane or any other flashing up the side wall.

I suppose you could cut that little guy so a flap kicks out, but you'd have to seal the cut, and usually I see them kick out a bit beyond the roof edge, not up above. And whatever is happening with wall flashing may affect using this piece.

Google these images and you decide how far you go to keep water out:
- kickout flashing
- metal roof rake edge detail
- metal roof wall flashing detail
 
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