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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First, I take full responsibility for this problem. I bought a foreclosure years ago, had no idea what I was doing (especially with gutters) when I did renovation, and tried to install a viynl gutter system using nothing but the big box store instructions.

I am not sure if what is pictured here behind my stellar gutter install is a "drip edge" or a "gutter apron". One thing is certain, the shingles are glued down right to the edge of the roof, with no overhang (at least I can say that one wasn't my doing). The gutters are then screwed into the drip edge/gutter apron.

I assume, in this scenario, one would want the lip of whatever that is to be inside the actual gutter... means taking down the gutter, moving it under that lip, then mounting the gutter back... how that would be done with these clips, I'm not sure.

Any help would be appreciated. This is really getting under my skin. I'm considering hiring someone, but I'd rather know what has to be done first... then decide if I'm up to the task or if I need a professional.

...and yes, I know that fascia needs to be repaired...

Please limit all recommendations to ones that will save me money. :smile:
 

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Got some major issues that need to be address.
As you mentioned the shingles where installed wrong, should have been about a 1" over hang.
You have rotted fashia that should have been replaced before the gutters went up.
That metal just looks like someone poor attempt to cover up the rotted wood.
There is no drop edge.
Those plastic gutters are a waste of time and money and should not even be allowed to be sold.
It looks like you have angled rafter tails with no angled stand offs to mount the gutters to.
Post a picture of what the rest of the shingle look like.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I thank you all for being blunt and giving the input. I don't quite have the lingo down so much, so when

Proposed solution...
Take down the vinyl gutters in favor of metal... slide the gutter under the flashing... then use ferrules and screws so that the screw would go through the gutter, then flashing, other side of the gutter, then into the fascia.

Sound like it would work? I mean, it seems a foregone conclusion that my current mess is no good. I'd rather have metal anyway. But I think it is impossible to pry up the shingles to get a drip edge or anything in there. Like I said, glued down to the edge, and one started tearing when I tried to pry up before. So what I'm thinking is this (with some sealant where I'm going through that flashing, if thats what we can call it).




...and yes, I'm going to have to replace that rotted fascia board.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sorry for the incomplete thoughts... hey, I sprained my neck and I'm on the good stuff... but check this out and let me know if you guys think this will do the job, without having to pull up the shingles (because I believe it might be impossible without destroying them).
 

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Joe and ben are dean on. You made matters worse buy hanging that plastic gutter and doing it incorrectly.Your shingle should have more overhang.There should have been come drip edge installed. Fascia should have been wrapped flush and a few other things .
Your solution is a little unclear by the drawing.If you intend to put this flashing over the shingles you are screwed.You need to install ,at least, a proper drip edge under the shingles and fix the rafter tails .Then install a sound fascia with metal gutters attached properly under the drip edge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You're right, it wasn't clear. The upsidedown "L" which looks like it would be on top of the singles is not. It's the metal that is already there in my original picture. This metal anchors up under the shingles. So, by putting new metal gutters behind it, the gutters would be flush with the facia and the metal that is already there would function as a drip edge of sorts. The screw/nail would pass through the front of the gutter, then through the metal "drip edge" (or whatever it is), then back of the gutter, into the facia. Does that make it more clear?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks. I haven't been able to find a hidden hanger that would work in this particular scenario since the hanger wouldn't be able to clip on the backside if the gutter.... unless i were to cut the metal to accommodate the hanger backside, which I figure woud just give more opportunity for leaks, water running down, etc.
 

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Once again what you have there now to cover that fashia is wrong, the metal is bent the wrong way.
The only way to fix this right is to toss that vinyl gutter in the trash.
Remove that metal.
Replace all that rotten wood.
Have it wrapped in coil stock.
Remove the shingles above where is stuck down and install new shingles, this time using a drip edge and an over hang so the water drips into the gutters not behind them.
Have seamless gutters installed.
Leave it the way it is and it's going to end up costing you far in all the damage done.
 

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there is only one way the right way.....well there are hack jobs...but there not right in any way , shape, or form.....diy sites..ask for the proper way to install it or repair it form the pros .. what you do with it is your business... see post 3 and 14..good luck..
 

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@;
Remove the shingles above where is stuck down and install new shingles, this time using a drip edge and an over hang so the water drips into the gutters not behind them.
What he has is properly installed gutter apron, the shingles don't overhang because he's in a hurricane zone. They are cemented down with no overhang per code.

The fascia should be replaced, but there is no need or reason to modify the shingles or flashing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks all. PC I believe you are correct regarding why the shingles are glued to the edge (hurricane zone/code issues). I also get what you guys are saying about the plastic gutters, and I'm going to ditch them for seamless metal... also going to replace rotted facia.
 
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