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Discussion Starter #1
I am upgrading my panel and have a few questions on grounding.
So im putting in 2 ground rods at least 6' apart, do the rods have to be driven all the way below the surface of the dirt? I have the underground acorn type clamps for the wire.
also it has to be one continuious ground wire from the panel to 1 rod then to the other rod, correct?
If I am using #4 wire does it need to be in conduit or can it come out of the panel and go right to the rod? also does all the wire have to be striped or just striped where it makes contact with the grounding rod?

sorry for all the questions, I just want to make sure I do it right.

Thanks
 

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I am upgrading my panel and have a few questions on grounding.
So im putting in 2 ground rods at least 6' apart, do the rods have to be driven all the way below the surface of the dirt? I have the underground acorn type clamps for the wire.
Yes. I generally leave the top of the rod uncovered so the inspector can see it. When he is done, I just kick some dirt in to cover it up.

also it has to be one continuious ground wire from the panel to 1 rod then to the other rod, correct?
Not necessarily. You can go from the panel to the first rod, and clamp it there. Then with another clamp continue another wire to the next rod. I always use a continuous piece. It looks neater and I need one less clamp.

If I am using #4 wire does it need to be in conduit or can it come out of the panel and go right to the rod? also does all the wire have to be striped or just striped where it makes contact with the grounding rod?

sorry for all the questions, I just want to make sure I do it right.

Thanks
Where does it exit the wall? Or is the panel already on the outside? If it comes out high, then of course conduit will make it look neater. If it comes out low then I would just go to the rod. Generally, if I run a solid conductor from an outside-mounted enclosure, I run it exposed, and strap it to the wall with BX straps, bent to snug around it. And yes, if it is insulated, it only has to be stripped where it connects.
 

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If you do sleeve it in conduit, use PVC. MEtal conduit would have to be bonded at both ends therefore is impractical.

I drive the rods a couple inches underground to avoid a trip hazard.

Wire can be insulated and stripped at connectionss.

Wire doesn't HAVE to be continuous but is generally easier to do so.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Where does it exit the wall? Or is the panel already on the outside? If it comes out high, then of course conduit will make it look neater. If it comes out low then I would just go to the rod. Generally, if I run a solid conductor from an outside-mounted enclosure, I run it exposed, and strap it to the wall with BX straps, bent to snug around it. And yes, if it is insulated, it only has to be stripped where it connects.
It is going to come out of the wall down low where the foundation is. The ground rod will be about 6" over from where the wire will come out of the wall.
The wire that is going from one ground rod to the other do you trench down and lay the wire in the dirt? if so how deep should it be dug? or lay it on top of the dirt or strap it along the foundation with bx straps?
 

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I use a straight claw hammer to dig out about 6" along the foundation. No sense taking out a bunch of dirt to install a skinny wire.

Strapping it is a pain, especially that low.
 

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NEC 2008

250.64 Grounding Electrode Conductor Installation.
Grounding electrode conductors shall be installed as specified in 250.64(A) through (F).
(A) Aluminum or Copper-Clad Aluminum Conductors.
Bare aluminum or copper-clad aluminum grounding conductors shall not be used where in direct contact with masonry or the earth or where subject to corrosive conditions.
Where used outside, aluminum or copper-clad aluminum grounding conductors shall not be terminated within 450 mm (18 in.) of the earth.
(B) Securing and Protection Against Physical Damage.
Where exposed, a grounding electrode conductor or its enclosure shall be securely fastened to the surface on which it is carried. A 4 AWG or larger copper or aluminum grounding electrode conductor shall be protected where exposed to
physical damage. A 6 AWG grounding electrode conductor that is free from exposure to physical damage shall be permitted to be run along the surface of the building construction without metal covering or protection where it is securely
fastened to the construction; otherwise, it shall be in rigid metal conduit, intermediate metal conduit, rigid nonmetallic conduit, electrical metallic tubing, or cable armor.
Grounding electrode conductors smaller than 6 AWG shall be in rigid metal conduit, intermediate metal conduit, rigid nonmetallic conduit, electrical metallic tubing, or cable armor.
(C) Continuous. Grounding electrode conductor(s) shall be installed in one continuous length without a splice or joint except as permitted in (1) and (2): [ROP 5–186]
(1) Splicing shall be permitted only by irreversible
compression-type connectors listed as grounding and bonding equipment or by the exothermic welding process.
(2) Sections of busbars shall be permitted to be connected together to form a grounding electrode conductor.
[ROP 5–186]
 

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Metal conduit with service conductors only need to be bonded at one end.
I think he is referring to the requirement in 250.64 (E) which says, in part:

Ferrous metal enclosures that are not physically continuous from cabinets or equipment to the grounding electrode shall be made electrically continuous by bonding each end of the raceway or enclosure to the grounding electrode conductor. Bonding shall apply at each end and to all intervening ferrous raceways, boxes, and enclosures between the service equipment, cabinets, or equipment and the grounding electrode.
 
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