Please explain what confuses you so?
As I explained earlier, there is a straight feed from the meter main breaker panel (you do know what that is....right?) From there it's a single circuit run to a waterproof box with a receptacle that supplies power to the AC condenser. The receptacle is 11 feet off of the ground and cannot be confusing for anyone with any amount of common sense. The only possible code violation was the lack of a GFCI used to supply the A/C condenser power but I have since found out a GFCI is not only not required for this (according to the A/C contractor) but not allowed. My question was a simple one....which was if anyone tried running an A/C condenser powered by a GFCI. I mentioned way back that I believe the GFCI would trip and guess what...it did.
The only confusion is coming from those who think they know it all or assume others are not as smart as them. I just finished building the entire home and I personally installed all of the electrical for both the main home and the apartment without a single violation.
You seem to be trying to get a blessing on your use of a receptacle to supply equipment fastened in place which violates the US National Electric Code (NEC). You also want a blessing for the installation of an outdoor receptacle outlet that is not protected by a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI). which also violates the US NEC. Why you feel you need to convince us that we should support you in making a non code compliant installation I don't know.
If you later want to stop accusing people of arrogance because they will not say that what you are doing is the right way to do it then you may want to see pictures of the minor amount of parts that it would take to do this right.
The box that you have already installed up on the wall by the Condenser unit is a fine place to start. Remove the receptacle and install a short length of Liquid Tight conduit from that box to the wiring port of the condenser unit.
The photograph is just representative of how the liquid tight flexible conduit would be used. Yes I know that your box is just a single gang weather proof box and your condenser is wall mounted ~ 11 feet up.
Run four insulated conductors which will carry current, 2 white or grey; the smart move would be to use one of each; and 2 of different colors; other than white, grey, or green; and one insulated green conductor down to a box at a convenient height above ground. As to how you run the wires down to the lower box that does not make any difference as long as you use cable or raceway, such as 1 UF 2 wire cable and one UF 3 wire cable, EMT assembled with rain tight fittings, Non Metallic Rigid Conduit, or whatever other wire means suits you and is code permitted in wet locations. I suggest non metallic rigid conduit for it's lighter weight and the readily available manufactured bends.
In the lower box or boxes you will install a double pole, double throw switch.
In the other half of the same box or in another box right next to it you will installed a flush flanged inlet and cover both with an in use cover.
If the switch and the flanged inlet are in different boxes; I can never find one cover that will fit both devices; then install a weather proof switch cover or weather proof switch operating cover. Now you wire the white and one of the other wires, say black, to one set of selectable contacts to use as the supply to the switch from your upper box. You wire the gray and the other color insulation, say red, to the common terminals of the switch. The grey and red will supply the condenser unit. The other pair of selectable terminals are wired to the flanged inlet. The green wire gets connected to the green grounding terminal of both devices and to the box if it is metal. The switch includes a center off position so it can serve as the code required disconnect for the condenser unit.
When the power goes out you run an extension cord to the flanged inlet which is now located conveniently close to the ground. You turn the disconnect to it's center off position, insert the receptacle cord cap into the flanged inlet. You throw the switch to the Flanged inlet contacts and you are back in the cool.
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Tom Horne