You can buy a ground bar kit that mounts to the panel case and move the bare grounds to it. You can add one on each side. White wires are supposed to be only one per hole. Bare grounds are permitted more than one per hole.
This panel makes use of an exception in Code that says, in *main* panels, the neutral bars may be used for grounds.
You can tell they are neutral bars, because the panel provides facilities to isolate them from the chassis, an essential characteristic of a neutral bar in any but a main panel.
If you want ACTUAL ground bars, they are readily available for sale for most panels in the $6 range, and typically fit near the corners. The panel label will probably recommend particular models of that manufacturer's ground bar, and there are probably holes already drilled and tapped for those. They do not locate where you would think; a ground bar is *supposed* to be in direct metal-metal contact with the metal box chassis, so they just mount directly on it.
You don not have to connect the new ground bar to the neutral bar. That is accomplished by both being connected to the case of the panel. Scrape off the paint where the new bar is connected. Some people like to run a #6 between the neutral and the new bar but it is not a code requirement.
You will see threaded holes in the back of the panel for the grounding bar to be screwed into. You should see a green bonding screw already in the neutral bar which screws into the panel housing which serves as a jumper.
Unless someone else can find where, but I don't see where the neutral bar is even bonded to the panel - no strap and I think (where I placed the red circle) should be a bonding screw.
Hard to see in the picture with my old eyes so if someone else can see where this main panel is bonded please let me know.
You need to bond the neutral bar to the panel somehow. Then when you install the additional ground bar it will also be bonded to the panel.
I may not have worded this correctly but I think you guys got my drift here.
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