[ubelongoutside]

I'm wondering if anyone has used these and if you have any feedback on them, tips, tricks, etc.

I'm thinking of using this for the basement ceiling that is currently unfinished. I like the idea of not losing the height from a drop down and that I can still access above if needed.

If you're not familiar with them they are similar to a drop ceiling but the track mounts directly to the joists or whatever is above them and uses drop in panels. Here is a link to a kit they sell at Home Depot http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ceilingmax-100-sq-ft-Ceiling-Grid-Kit-White-182-00/100521670

 

[Windows on Wash]

Seems like it would work, but why not just drywall?

How are you planning on creating the recessed edge of the tile on the end and cut pieces?

Also, if I were putting it on my ceiling, I would put some sort of rubber isolation between where the track screws to the joist framing to help with the vibrations and noise.

 

[ubelongoutside]

Seems like it would work, but why not just drywall?

How are you planning on creating the recessed edge of the tile on the end and cut pieces?

Also, if I were putting it on my ceiling, I would put some sort of rubber isolation between where the track screws to the joist framing to help with the vibrations and noise.

I want this instead of drywall as this allows access just like a suspended ceiling to pipes etc. located above, albeit with a little more work.

Not all of the tiles have recessed or "reveal" edges some are just plain old flat panels and this is what I'll probably go with.

You also hit the point about sound. The manufacturer is actually ACP (Acoustic Celing and Partition) and states that this system is actually very good at reducing noise.

 

[SeniorSitizen]

I like it. Please keep us informed.

 

[Windows on Wash]

I would still incorporate some sort of rubber isolation between the attachment points to increase that sound attenuation.

 

[spaceman spif]

Let me know how this system works out for you! I want to replace the ceiling in my basement (very shoddy drywall work) and I like the look and accessibility of the drop ceiling tiles. However my basement is already very low so I need a system like the one in your link.

 

[SeniorSitizen]

I think I'd need to draw a map for future reference to access what ever need be.:biggrin2:
Let's see now, that valve to close water supply was in line with panel #3 and over 6 panels to the west wasn't it.:smile:

 

[spaceman spif]

I think I'd need to draw a map for future reference to access what ever need be.:biggrin2:
Let's see now, that valve to close water supply was in line with panel #3 and over 6 panels to the west wasn't it.:smile:

Or in my case...

"Let's see now...I bet that soaking wet, dripping, sagging tile is where the leak is."

 

[carpdad]

I never used it, although have been wondering if somebody made something like it. But I think it is unforgiving system and floor joists, esp in older houses, are rarely in a flat plane. Unless you take a big trouble to fur out your joists into a flat surface, the joints of the angles and the panels will not meet and have gaps all over the place.

 

[cbaur88]

Awesome thread, might be exactly what am looking for. I don't want to lose ceiling height and it helps with noise vibration. Keep us posted on how this works for you. Good stuff...!

 

[ron45]

Why not just slats and drywall.?

 

[cbaur88]

See his original quote about having access to ceiling and not loosing ceiling height.

I'm wondering if anyone has used these and if you have any feedback on them, tips, tricks, etc.

I'm thinking of using this for the basement ceiling that is currently unfinished. I like the idea of not losing the height from a drop down and that I can still access above if needed.

If you're not familiar with them they are similar to a drop ceiling but the track mounts directly to the joists or whatever is above them and uses drop in panels. Here is a link to a kit they sell at Home Depot http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ceilingmax-100-sq-ft-Ceiling-Grid-Kit-White-182-00/100521670

 

[Anti-wingnut]

Why not a real dropped ceiling, which can accommodate twists and dips in the structure above, not not that cheesy product Lowes's is hawking. That really looks like a poor product.

 

[cbaur88]

I think the Cheesy looking product from Lowes has a shallower depth so not loosing ceiling height, maximizing ceiling height.

Why not a real dropped ceiling, which can accommodate twists and dips in the structure above, not not that cheesy product Lowes's is hawking. That really looks like a poor product.

 

[dd57chevy]

My Mom & Dad lived in their finished basement for 7 yrs until they saved enough money to build the house over it . Now , after 50 years , there are about 13 access holes cut in the basement ceiling .

This stuff looks very functional ! Let us know how it works out !

PS : I LOVE cheese !!!

 

[Anti-wingnut]

A standard grid ceiling should give you the same head room and be cheaper, have part more readily available and be easier to access.

 

[ubelongoutside]

Well I'm back to let you guys know how it went.


This system consists of 5 components:

1. the edges are J shaped vinyl pieces that are exactly like J channel for siding, but not as rigid. These are used on the perimeter of the room. Long leg goes up, short leg goes down. These can either be screwed to the support through the long leg, or through the bottom of the J to the "wall" or other support.
2. the "tracks" are 8' long vinyl strips that are run parallel to the long side of the room. These are screwed to the overhead support and the T strips snap in to them. These are a pain to keep straight
3. The cross members are ~23" long pieces of T shaped plastic that nest in notches on the tracks and rest in the channel of the J shaped pieces
4. The T strips that correspond to the tracks are also 8' long vinyl pieces with a "snap" mechanism that locks into the tracks holding the edges of the tiles.
5. the ceiling tiles themselves, are whatever you choose to use either 2x4 or 2x2.

First off as others have mentioned keeping this stuff, level, and square is a huge pain as the stuff is super flimsy. It's strong, but very flexible.


Second screwing this stuff up is difficult because it's very slick vinyl. I put the screw bit into my hand about a half a dozen times trying to get a screw started in this stuff.


Other than these 2 major drawbacks I think it could be good in certain situations given that a few things are done first.

1. lay out your entire grid first using a story stick or some other method. Their directions just try to get you to center the grid to the room, well if you centered your lights to the room you end up with a grid line right where your lights are (yep I did this :vs_worry
2. check the level of everything you plan to attach it too, being so flexible this stuff takes every imperfection into account and doesn't hide it well. Doing it again I would get either a laser level or water level and spend a good amount of time shimming.
3. Screwing through the side of the J channel edge pieces causes them to want to bend upwards. They work better if you do it through the bottom of the J, but if like I you want to install around a duct or other obstruction you end up screwing upward, or installing a filler piece to screw to.
4. If I were to do this again I would not have any of the tracks "float". I would add 1/2" purlins behind all of the track lowering the ceiling by that amount, but giving it some rigidity as trying to snap the T pieces into the track with nothing behind them is a pain.
5. Screws - they suggest drywall screws. I do not. I would use 1/2" round socket cap wood screws with the sharpest point you can find. Also I ended up having to use a spring loaded punch to make a dent to start the screws to keep them from wandering. Hell, I might even suggest drilling pilot holes in this slick s&*t. The drywall screws make a divot, that if you have to redo the screw for whatever reason you have to trim off to make the back flat again.

All in all this stuff was not terrible, but I think I would have done these few things above differently if I did it again.



The pluses of it are, no lost headroom, and being vinyl they will never rust.