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Discussion Starter #1
So I asked around and long story short I went with the Valspar Contractor 2000 interior paint.

I've only done one wall to test it out and it went down well, and covered great.

I need to do some exterior painting and for whatever reason Valspar does not make an obvious exterior equivalent.

What would you guys recommend in the same type of price range? The Contractor 2000 runs about 20 a gallon, but I don't know if exterior is typically more expensive.

Also, what do you guys recommend for primer? The walls are just exterior grade plywood so I know primer and paint are important.

TIA!
 

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Welcome Brian, If you can't get Chrisn's recommendation, get a premium exterior wood primer from one of the big brand names, SW, BM, Cabot's Problem Solver Primer, etc. Oil base will give you the best penetration. As for finish, you could also consider a solid stain in addition to paint. Not sure what you're painting if the exterior walls are just plywood sheathing. How long has the plywood been exposed? What kind of shape is it in? You may want to consider some form of treatment prior to priming. Since the prime coat determines the success of all future coats, if the surface condition isn't optimal, your next coats or the job as a whole won't be either.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It's a situation where some of the exterior grade plywood siding has failed. The paint cracked and water was able to get in and soften the wood.

I need to replace a few panels. Obviously it would be better to replace it with something better, but it's not in the budget at this time.

So these new panels will need to be primed and painted, and the existing panels will also get a scraping and new paint.

I wasn't sure about oil based primer/paint, or even sheen.

As far as I know nobody carries Duron in my area (78249).
 

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Brian, solid stain and paint will look basically the same. However, stain will have better characteristics for your application, and it breathes better than primer/paint. Solid stain is a common coating for exterior wood siding of all types. As HPNY stated, it won't require a primer, two coats over bare wood. It will also go over the existing painted surfaces with the proper prep, cleaning, sanding, etc. It's easier, less time consuming, and will probably be more beneficial for you in the long run. Go into a local SW store and talk to them.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I guess I'll have to look into it. I'm used to associating stain with the type of semi-clear stuff you put on decks and furniture etc.

Just to give you an idea of what I'm dealing with I'm attaching a picture. I basically need to replace the pieces that have rotted out. I'd love to re-do the whole thing but I don't think it's in the budget right now.

Is this something I can get at the big box stores or would I need to go to a SW type place?

 

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Discussion Starter #13
For whatever it's worth the reviews on Lowe's for Cabots are pretty terrible. Mainly issues with peeling. Am I correct to assume they make a base that I can get tinted to match any color, because the color selection on their website is better than what SW has but still not what I'm looking for.
 

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Brian, for what it's worth, I'm sure the reviews on Lowe's are from HO's. In all honesty, with no disrespect, I don't put much stock in a ho's opinion about paint products. Here's the reason, about 50% of the pro painters I know don't know their backside from a hole in the ground, and they can barely pull of a quality job, and usually it's by stroke of luck. Coating applications require sound, well prepared surfaces. It also requires a basic understanding of weather, environment, moisture, construction, paints/chemicals, substrates, etc. There are so many variables that can cause paint failure, and they can usually be traced back to human error, whether it's a plain lack of knowledge or willful disregard. That's where the knowledge comes in. I've worked for numerous painters over the years and watched, more times than are countable, applications being done that were doomed before the paint was put away. A general contractor friend/colleague told me that Sikkens stain sucks, I asked him why. It failed on his deck. Turns out his deck sits on the ground and he used a product not spec'd for decks with less than 18" clearance from the ground, which it clearly states. A painter friend, a painter, told me the same of Sikkens. Turns out he put a product on a hardwood deck, but he didn't use the lacquer thinner or acetone during the application, as the instructions require. An HO customer of mine does his deck with CWF every two years, by which time the deck is completely stripped by the sun. Why, he rolls it on and doesn't get the sides of the boards, which is a wide open door for moisture. Plus, when you roll with no back brush, the finish doesn't penetrate properly and basically lays on the surface. He thinks that CWF is a bad product. Coating companies don't just throw stuff in a can and hope it works. The products are put through extensive testing. I'm far from a believer in everything the paint companies claim, believe me. But, I'm more inclined to believe that a product failed because of poor prep, faulty application technique, poor choice of product for the job's requirement, or lack of subsequent maintenance routines. You can have Cabot's or SW stains made in practically any color you like. I've done jobs with Cabot's done in BM colors. And, just the other day I was told SW could be made in practically any color in the fan deck. Lowe's or HD may only make it in the company offered colors, but the paint stores will make thier own colors.
 

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You mean to stain both sides right?
Yes, that prevents moisture that transfers through the walls from the inside from penetrating the back of the sheathing and being pulled through the exterior surface, taking the stain with it. A common source of exterior coating failure. Knowledge:thumbsup:
 

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Tyvek and felt will help with that type of moisture, but they can be imperfect if not installed properly. And there are other ways that moisture can get behind the sheathing. When it comes to my work, I never approach with the belief that everyone else has installed/performed their job properly. It never hurts to have redundancy or overcompensate where moisture is concerned. It's just smart to backprime all wood you have a chance to.
 

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For whatever it's worth the reviews on Lowe's for Cabots are pretty terrible. Mainly issues with peeling. Am I correct to assume they make a base that I can get tinted to match any color, because the color selection on their website is better than what SW has but still not what I'm looking for.
Sherwin williams can make you solid stain in any color you want imaginable it is there Woodscapes line. I've used Cabot ProVT on hundreds of projects and never had a problem. In fact a few weeks ago I saw a project that was done 3 years ago using Cabot ProVT solid stain and the stain still looks new, it hasn't even faded.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
How well does this type of stuff go down with an airless sprayer? I know it's possible because my tip chart has a section for solid color stains.

Also, as far as back priming, can I get away with one coat, especially since it's also going to have felt paper or tyvek behind it?

TIA.
 

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How well does this type of stuff go down with an airless sprayer? I know it's possible because my tip chart has a section for solid color stains.

Also, as far as back priming, can I get away with one coat, especially since it's also going to have felt paper or tyvek behind it?

TIA.
I would suggest rolling the first coat on and follow up with a brush. The problem with using spray or roll only on first coats is penetration. Any product spec'd to go over raw wood will call for backbrushing to massage the material into the pores of the wood, work it in, else the material may lay on the surface giving superficial penetration. The second coat can be applied in any manner you choose.
As to back priming, personally, I would choose a premium exterior oil base sealer. What you're asking may be fine, and others may concur. I'm just going by my perference/experience.
 
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