Newbie here. Ok, back in January our compressor froze up for about 3 days during the coldest days we have seen here in SC. We noticed that our power bill went from $240 to $550. I knew something was wrong but wasn't sure what it was. Had no idea it would could be the HVAC system from the heat strip running all the time. Anyways, I had a Hvac tech check it out yesterday and he said the compressor was bad and the system was about 4 pounds low on freon. (R22). The breaker was tripped and when he flipped the breaker back on and the unit tried to kick on, the breaker tripped again. With the system being that low is this what caused the compressor to stop or is there some type of cut off for the compressor if a detection of low freon. Also the unit was manufactured in 1997, so I'm thinking of a new complete system. Can someone give me some options as if it's better to replace the heat pump or the complete system and if the new 410A would be a better choice since i was told that if I have another R22 unit installed I would not be able to get the freon after 2014. One last thing, the house has about 1950 sqft of heating/cooling area, it's currently a 2.5 ton and was told we needed close to a 3.0 ton. Does this make a big difference in heating and cooling. Thanks for all the help.
Goodman Heat Pump
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Many heat pumps do not come with low pressure or loss of charge switches. The problem is they continue to run empty which often times ruines the compressor. Yours has a leak, possibly full of contaminates and a bad compressor.
Time to replace the whole thing because repairs will be almost the same cost. Get 410A and avoid any future R22 hassels. Both will still be around long after the new system dies of old age but R22 might be mighty expensive in a few years. If the old 2.5 ton cooled well then you don't need a 3 ton unless you buy a 2 stage, they only come in whole numbers.
Time to replace the whole thing because repairs will be almost the same cost. Get 410A and avoid any future R22 hassels. Both will still be around long after the new system dies of old age but R22 might be mighty expensive in a few years. If the old 2.5 ton cooled well then you don't need a 3 ton unless you buy a 2 stage, they only come in whole numbers.
Goodman Heat pump-Hvac tech almost BS'd me
After calling Goodman, I found out that my heat pump is still under warr until the end of the month. I also found out that the tech said it was a 2.5 but it's really a 3.5 ton along with all that, he said i was manufactured in 98/99 but it the real date is 2006 which all this info came straight from Goodman. Thanks for your help, but I think I will take advantage of the warr while it still has one and while I'm at it, I will find another HVAC tech to repair my system from here on...:furious:
After calling Goodman, I found out that my heat pump is still under warr until the end of the month. I also found out that the tech said it was a 2.5 but it's really a 3.5 ton along with all that, he said i was manufactured in 98/99 but it the real date is 2006 which all this info came straight from Goodman. Thanks for your help, but I think I will take advantage of the warr while it still has one and while I'm at it, I will find another HVAC tech to repair my system from here on...:furious:
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FYI, your warranty is parts only. Refrigerant is most of the time not considered a part. New compressor, labor only, will still typically cost you over $1000 especially after the leak is found and then repaired or that component also replaced.
Right, the refrig is not included, but this guy wanted like $1500 to replace the compressor. and didn't even know what he was looking at. I have someone to put the new in and recharge it for $600 which is way better than $1500 or $8000 for a complete system. Thanks for the info.:thumbsup:
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Do you know where the leak is? Is there one? Don't have new compressor put in and not repair the leak if there is one. Don't want to waste your $600.
BTW, I wasn't saying you were wrong to use someone else. I am saying make sure it is done correctly though. For a possibly burnt out compressor that sounds very cheap. By the time you do acid test and remove the acid if there is any and all the other steps involved with replacing a possibly burnt out compressor, I'd say that is a heck of a deal! Just hope all the correct steps are done so you get the full potential and life out of the system.
BTW, I wasn't saying you were wrong to use someone else. I am saying make sure it is done correctly though. For a possibly burnt out compressor that sounds very cheap. By the time you do acid test and remove the acid if there is any and all the other steps involved with replacing a possibly burnt out compressor, I'd say that is a heck of a deal! Just hope all the correct steps are done so you get the full potential and life out of the system.
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My company is a goodman dealer last year they posted a service bulletin on the service ports (king valve) leaking on mid 2000 goodman / amana a/c's loosen the cap and listen to see if it hisses for a split second goodman was paying us parts and labor to change them
That's good to know. Been a while but the last I heard they just said put some pookie on the threads and call it good. Guess that didn't over to well if they're paying to fix it now.
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Even if there was a leak there, the whole system needs to be leak searched to ensure no other leaks were present before investing any money in repairs. Don't want to get to putting pressure on the system to find leaks in the evap. or somewhere else and have to tell the client that they need another $1200 in additional work done. A true professional will not quote or start performing any of said repairs until any and all potential problems are found. It's called being upfront with your clients.
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I agree the while system needs to be checked but the service ports are hard to check, you can't with a electronic tester just a good place to start
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And a far as being upfront with clients I am just giving insight and trying to be helpful I obviously am not in front of the unit to see whats going on.if I am on that call absolutely check the whole system because I guarantee my work and other leaks could be out of my pocket
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Besides having the unit leak checked. Also have the new guy replace the contactor, run capacitor and liquid line filter drier. He should relocate the LLFD outside of the cabinet. many of the lower priced guiys don't do any of this, and troubles crop up later.
Also, you might want to call Goodman, and see if this new compresor's warranty will expire at the end of the moth. Some manufacturers when sending out a warranty compressor, only give you the remaining warranty time of the old compressor.
Also, you might want to call Goodman, and see if this new compresor's warranty will expire at the end of the moth. Some manufacturers when sending out a warranty compressor, only give you the remaining warranty time of the old compressor.
I'm glad you pointed out those other things to look for and check. I had no idea what to look for. I will write these tips down for reference. The warranty will end at the end of this month even with the new compressor. I am really starting to guess myself in thinking if the guy really knew how to check the freon level. What steps are there to check the system, because what I have read, he did not do it no where to how I thought it should be. The unit has been real good up until this winter, but as for a leak, that hasn't been checked but the HVAC guy I have coming now works for a well known company and he was the one to steer me in the direction to re-check the date and warr on the unit.
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Only a few ways to chekc the level.
1. Run the system and check super heat, and sub cooling, which means you need the compressor to work to do it.
2. Recover it, and weigh it to see if it matches the data plate, plus the additional for line set length and coil match up.
3. WAG way. If you connect your gauges and the sat pressure is lower then the ambient temp, you guess how low it is, but you don't know for sure.
1. Run the system and check super heat, and sub cooling, which means you need the compressor to work to do it.
2. Recover it, and weigh it to see if it matches the data plate, plus the additional for line set length and coil match up.
3. WAG way. If you connect your gauges and the sat pressure is lower then the ambient temp, you guess how low it is, but you don't know for sure.
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