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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
So it seems to work for a while and then stop, E2 code again. I did the best I could to check all the tubes and the switches nipples, could not see any blockages. I woke up at 2 AM and noticed it was not working even though the thermostat was calling for heat. Yesterday I talked to the tech and he said if he comes out he has to replace the switch and charge me $400. I found both low and high in a pair for 60 so I ordered them. Besides paying another company to come check the furnace I don't know what else to do. I am already minus $200 and still have a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
I temporarily correct the problem by unplugging the electrical wires from one of the switches, the one I replaced already. This is a pressure switch for the drain, but there is no blockage. After that is working again for a while. I think I am gonna bit the bullet and call another company to come check it out.
 

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The port on the collector box where the press switch hoses attaches can be wet but should not get plugged with scale. It should be sloped/beveled backwards inside to prevent water sitting in it.

Check the furnace to see if it is sitting level from front to back. Ideally it should be sloped from back to front about 1/2 an inch even though the manual says level is OK.

It helps drain the water from the secondary coil better and faster and some furnaces are very finicky about that. Maybe it has settled after a year or so. Try slope it 1/2 an inch.

You may have water hanging up in the secondary heat exchanger coil.
 

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Unplugging and plugging the pressure switches isn’t going to really reset or fix anything. Did you plug it back in?
The next step would be checking draft with a manometer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I unplugged/plugged the switch to get the furnace working again. I had another tech out today, he confirmed there is no draining issue and he checked the pressure at the switches. He tested for over an hour and he came to the conclusion this is a bad low pressure switch, intermittent problem.
 

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I visually checked the exhaust and intake outside the house to make sure they are not obstructed and could not find anything. Then I called the maintenance tech and he diagnosed the problem as a faulty low pressure switch, did not have one in stock, too late 11 pm to get one, so he bypassed it for the night in order to get heat. The furnace worked but never kicked on right away when the thermostat would call for heat. Next day I found a new OEM switch and replaced it myself. Furnace started working fine, I had the tech come out just to make sure everything was good and later in the evening I had the initial problem again. I opened the furnace, saw the code, I checked the manual and again low pressure switch. This time is a brand new one. I took the rubber tube off and blew a little air into the switch, felt like it was stuck. Started the furnace again, working good since yesterday 11 pm. This is a two stage furnace and also setup for high fire, I think the code mentions something about that. When the tech was out here last time he was testing the high fire on the furnace.
I am not a HVAC professional but I understand tech and learn quickly. Obviously, I do not have the tools but I appreciate all the advice you guys got me so far. I will contact the tech and suggest what you guys mentioned in the previous posts. Thank y
STOP trying to fix something since you don't know what you are doing. Stop jumping out the pressure switch! EVER!
 

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So I have a 2016 furnace with a E2 error code that has intermittently problems. I changed the pressure switch and it seemed to work for a while but then within 24 hours is doing the same thing, inducer kicks on but no flame. If I reset the pressure switch, blow air into tube starts working again. Thermostat will call for heat but in some cases furnace will not even start. I am at the end of my rope here, I had a tech out and paid for the visit, he came back a second time and while he was here everything was working fine. A few hours later, same issue. GMVC961005CNAA is the furnace, this is a dual stage furnace currently I use a Sensi smart thermostat. I also tried a new thermostat without any luck. What else can I do to fix this issue?
Were you able to fix it? I'm having the same issue.
 

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Same thing is happening to me and I’m stuck inside for next two days in a blizzard and it’s 20 degrees... my repair guy took everything apart, looked for blockages, checked resistance levels, and by process of elimination thinks it must be the low pressure switch, which I can’t get for two days... this rental is so poorly insulated I would freeze to death, so I think he did bypass it because I have little choice... trying to keep it lower so it doesn’t kick on as much... not sure what else to do
 

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If its bypassed, then the heat won't come on automatically.
 

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I had all the same issues. E2 error. Id pull the hoses off and do the old suck and blow on each pressure switch and it would fix itself for a short while only to find another E2 error shortly there after. Finally it occurred to me to test the switches with a multi meter. Removing the leads I would check the resistance across the 2 terminals and they all checked out. Open circuit w/o suction which would close when I sucked on the tube. So with the knowledge that the switches were all working I figured it had to be something else. My Goodman system is a close 2 stage. There are 3 pressure switches. Two of them are connected into a single hose at a T fitting. I suspected that the push on connections to that T were leaking just enough to cause an intermittent error (vacuum leak). I used 3 small tie straps to secure and draw tight each of these connections. Problem solved. Furnace has been running all day w/o error.
If the error comes back I'll re post....
 

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Same thing is happening to me and I’m stuck inside for next two days in a blizzard and it’s 20 degrees... my repair guy took everything apart, looked for blockages, checked resistance levels, and by process of elimination thinks it must be the low pressure switch, which I can’t get for two days... this rental is so poorly insulated I would freeze to death, so I think he did bypass it because I have little choice... trying to keep it lower so it doesn’t kick on as much... not sure what else to do
Check my post below...
 

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I have a 3yr old Goodman/GMVC960804CN

I had an E2 code and these were my symptoms:
-Heat would only turn on when temps were very low below set temp
-Thermostat calling for heat, but nothing happening (until temp was very low)
-Blower fan was not quiet, sounded as if something was wrong/in it
-LO heat would activate, but immediately shut back off with blower fan running continuously

Solution to fix:
My condensation drain was clogged at the rubber exhaust elbow!
66D80347-4CFD-4C32-8CEE-C8C6FFD1CB3F.jpeg

-I removed the blower fan (which had water build up) and all the pressure switches (Confirmed all vacuum hoses were not clogged).
  • Removed the two lower condensation drain hoses
  • 5A9B22C0-88C9-4328-8FC4-4A00DE003C1B.jpeg

  • and the rubber exhaust elbow and cleaned out the clog, which was a bunch of dead STINK BUGS!! (btw- we do have a stink bug problem in our area. They came down the inlet/exhaust vent).
  • I also removed/cleaned the white condensation trap in the lower fan compartment (mounted to the top right and connects to the two lower condensation lines I removed earlier) and blew air down the rest of the condensation drain, which was slightly clogged.

After cleaning/putting everything back together, works like it’s brand new (lol- it is only 3yrs old)!

So, moral of my story/experience: listen to others who say not to spend money yet (just randomly buying/replacing parts) and to check for clogged lines, as that’s what the manufacturer recommends as one of the solutions. Getting your hands dirty and a little labor goes a long way and saves money!

Hope this helps!
(Disclaimer: the attached pics is not from me, but from another post and I did edit it to show my problem area. It’s exactly what my furnace looks like behind the combustion panel)
 
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