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Discussion Starter #1
So, are the screw connectors on the sides of GFCI receptacles supposed to have the wires under them or are they only there to secure the push in from the rear. These screws are very difficult to get a 12g conductor safely under them.
 

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the Musigician
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the screws are there to lock the backstabbed wire securely. it'd be real hard to get 12g around those, for sure.

DM
 

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So, are the screw connectors on the sides of GFCI receptacles supposed to have the wires under them or are they only there to secure the push in from the rear. These screws are very difficult to get a 12g conductor safely under them.
I struggled with wrapping wire around those recessed screw heads until if finally dawned on me that the screw heads are not meant for a wrapped wire. Putting the wire in the holes in the back, and screwing down to tighten them is how you are supposed to connect the device. I had a 'Der' moment when it finally dawned on me. :)
 

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The wire slips behind the pressure plate, not under the screw.



I struggled with wrapping wire around those recessed screw heads until if finally dawned on me that the screw heads are not meant for a wrapped wire
Some switches are being built like that now (P&S rocker switches). I always seem to strip and bend the wires (out of years of habit) and then look to see that the bend is not required.
 

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Licensed Electrical Cont.
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It'd be nice if you three agreed on something. :laughing:
 

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the Musigician
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i believe he's looking at one like this. the pressure plate does not move nor do the screws come out very far to allow wrapping. (they wiggle and slip back in like hell when you try to get the wire around it)
stab and tighten only.

DM
 

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The wire slips behind the pressure plate, not under the screw.





Some switches are being built like that now (P&S rocker switches). I always seem to strip and bend the wires (out of years of habit) and then look to see that the bend is not required.
Since I have used them on GFCIs, I prefer the pressure plate, wire in the hole, screw down method. Seems much more secure, plus it's easier. I pay a little extra for that on a receptacle or switch, but it's worth it to me.
 

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At least mine was light hearted joke.
Look at the post times of the first three replies.
 

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The only problem with the pressure plate style is that it is entirely possible to install the outlet while forgetting to tighten the screws... And it may even work... for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yep, mine's just like the picture. Nice to know I'm not the only one who struggles with this. I did manage to get the wires under the screws. It's not a great wrap around, more like a gentle right angle on the wire, but those suckers are very tightly secured under that #**##!! :furious: screw head. Next time it's the back stabs.
 

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Since I have used them on GFCIs, I prefer the pressure plate, wire in the hole, screw down method. Seems much more secure, plus it's easier. I pay a little extra for that on a receptacle or switch, but it's worth it to me.
Yeah the pressure plates are nice on the regular outlets too, but since the code requires Tamper Resistant outlets, I have yet to see TR outlets with the pressure plates. Maybe the Menards store that I go to just doesn't carry them or I am not looking in the right place.
 

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the Musigician
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handifoot, i do not believe these types are meant to be wrapped. there are two holes for each screw.
just strip the wire, slip it in the back and tighten the screw!
gigs: i find it hard to believe that you could even attempt to put 3-5 wires into the backs without tightening them as you go, one at a time.
they'd just fall out. you pretty much HAVE to tighten each one as you go.....

DM
 

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A right angle bend is usually not enough to be held down by the screw itself, unless there are ridges in the nearby metal or in the surrounding plastic to keep the wire from slipping away, or unless the screw head has a ring like concavity on the underside to keep the wire from slipping out.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yeah, I guess your right. Even though I think it's a real tight connection and it's an outside weatherproof box that's a pain to put together with the screws through the plates and foam insulation, I will redo the connections before I energize the thing. Funny, it seems to me that I've always heard that the back stab type connections were an inferior design.
 

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the Musigician
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i believe you're thinking of the 'clamping' type normal outlets. seen 'em, replaced 'em, won't use 'em....
those seem to loosen over time, not so the screw-clamp style.

DM
 

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also, remember that if it's brand new, you need to push the reset/test button to turn it on after energizing.... lol
(been there, didn't done that, got embarrased)

DM
 
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