[retarmy2002]

I have a GFCI that wont reset. I did the following.
1. Replaced it, but still trips
2. Removed the load receptacles, but still trips
3. Checked voltage from hot to neutral. 118
4. checked Voltage from hot to ground. 118
5 turned circuit off at breaker box and check for continuity.
6. no continuity at hot to either ground or neutral
7. continuity at neutral and ground
8. With circuit breaker on, I touch my red lead to the hot, but did not touch the black lead to anything and I got 11.5V. (See Attachment)
Any ideas what could be wrong

 

[joed]

Replace the GFCI. With nothing on the LOAD and proper voltage on the LINE, if it won't reset it must be bad.

Don't be concerned about the 11.5 volts it a phantom voltage o the high impedance meter. Garb the leads with your hands and you will probably see some volts.

 

[retarmy2002]

this was a new one with no load. I did notice that the old one was a 15 amp so I replaced it with a 15 amp. the circuit breaker is 20 amps. It's been like this for years.

 

[Nealtw]

Did you push the test button all the way in before resetting it. 15 and 20 have the same parts inside.

 

[jeffmattero76]

I am not sure I understand what you mean by
"I removed the load receptacles"

Does that mean that you removed all wires connected to the LOAD side of the GFCI? If so, then I would agree that the GFCI is bad.

As long as the 20 amp circuit is run with 12 gauge wire, a 15 amp GFCI is fine.

Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk

 

[retarmy2002]

Yes wires leading to the load side has been disconnected

 

[retarmy2002]

I will try another GFI

 

[CodeMatters]

If you have 120 on the line with hot and neutral correct and the GFI trips
then it can only be a faulty a GFI.

 

[jeffmattero76]

Is the circuit on when you try to reset the GFCI? Many will not reset on a dead circuit.

Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk

 

[retarmy2002]

I tried another new one and it worked. Tried it first by itself then with the load side attached.